'SF 395 
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500 QIESTIONS ANSWERED 
ABOUT SWINE 




L H. COOCH 



WEBB PUBLISHIIMG C0.» 

ST. PAUL. MINN. 

1907 



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FIVE HUNDRED QUESTIONS 

ANSWERED ABOUT 

SWINE 



Bein^ a Compilation of all the Questions 
Concerning the Breeding, Feeding, Pastur- 
ing, Diseases, Comparison of the Different 
Breeds and Miscellaneous Questions Asked 
and Answered About Swine, and Published 
in The Farmer from 1900 Until the Present. 



BY 

L. H. COOCH 



Published By 
WEBB PUBLISHING CO. 

ST. PAUL, MINN. 
1907 



^ 



k!SHA«Y of CONGRESS 
Iwu Cuoles Received 

OCT r >90r 

, CopyrtfM Entiy 
['cusl4' XXc, l4 

COPY 0. 




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Copyright, 1907. 

WEBB PUBLISHING CO. 

St. Paul, Minn. 



Preface. 

Eealizing the necessity for a swine book to which the farmer can turn and 
find his question answered without waste of time, we have collected and compiled 
the questions and answers contained in this book fi'om the past issues of The 
Farmer from 1900 up to the present time and added to these a number of ques- 
tions which we feel sure will be helpful to swine breeders. Although the title of 
this book is "500 Questions Answered About Swine," there are in reality 53i 
separate questions with their answers. 

The book is subdivided and contains 83 questions and answers about 
breeding hogs, 150 on feeding, 51 on pastures, 143 on diseases, 29 on the com- 
parison of different breeds and 78 miscellaneous questions. 

Our aim has been to subdivide this book in such a way that anyone can 
turn to it and have his question answered in the shortest possible time. In 
placing it before the public we wish to state that the questions pertaining to feed- 
ing and pastures are intended largely for Northwestern conditions but there is 
much advice in these two subdivisions that in a general way could be followed 
to advantage by swine breeders throughout the country. 

St. Paul, Minnesota, July 1st, 1907. L. H. COOCH. 



Breeding. 



Conformation of Brood Sow and Boar. 

What should be the conformation of the 
profitable brood sow? Also of the boar? 

Ans.: The brood sow to be a good 
breeder should be broad between the eyes 
to insure good disposition, long and deep 
in body, somewhat rangy, and her legs 
not too long, but strong. In other words, 
she should be a little coarse in her make- 
up. The sire may be a little more com- 
pact where the sow is ideal in type. The 
sire should show more finish. 

Impotent Boar. 

I bought a full blooded boar last fall. 
He weighs about 185 pounds and looks in 
the pink of perfection but he don't care 
anything for the sows. 

Ans.: The boar may be impotent and 
incapable of service. There is nothing to 
recommend. If natural methods fail, 
there is something seriously wrong, i'ou 
had better get another boar. 

Trouble With Boar. 

I have a fine improved Chester White 
boar and sow, botli registered, and the 
sow in pig with him. A large lump has 
come on the boar under his throat which 
has broken and looks like a piece of raw 
beef. Can you tell me what it is and if 
it is safe to raise the pigs? There will 
be about fifty of his get altogether. 

Ans.: The trouble with tlie boar may 
arise from one of a number of I'auses. 
It would be unsafe to say what the trou- 
ble is or what caused it without a moro 
perfect knowledge of all the facts, but it 
is pretty certain that it is not of a char- 
acter to affect the progeny. There need 
be no apprehension on this account. 

Selecting a Boar. 

In selecting a hog to head the herd 
should one be gotten with all the good 
markings? 

Ans.: A breeder should look for these 
markings but for a person who is only 
making pork, he need not be so particu 
lar. A small red spot does not hurt a 
Poland-China. In breeding pure-bred hogs 
you have *o make a discrimination to 
quite an extent, but for a man who is just 
producing pork, that doesn't count for 
anything. Packers pay no attention to 
color, but they like uniformity in a con- 
signment of hogs and pay more for such 
a load than where they are of all sizes 
and colors. 

Hog.s for Market only. 

I want to raise hogs for market. Is it 
necessary in such a case to have the very 
best, high priced boars that come up to 
scratch in every point? 

Ans.: If the hogs are grown for mar- 



ket only, it is not necessary to pay a fan- 
cy price for animals which have every 
bristle of just the right color and point- 
ing in exactly the right direction, i ' 
well, however, to use only pure-bred 
boars. What the pork raiser should re- 
quire in his boar is good form and size 
without coarseness, good feeding capacity 
and a strong constitution. 

Age of Sire. 

How long should a sire be kept and be 
a potent sire? 

Ans.: Records show that a majority of 
sires which have left behind them noted 
sires and dams were all the way from 
eighteen months to five years old, and 
some sires have made a high record at 
the age of eight and nine years. If more 
sires were kept from the age of two to 
five years, such as have proven themselves 
good sires by their vigorous offspring, it 
would add considerably to the improve- 
ment of the swine. This also holds true 
with sows. 

Breeding Age of Sire. 

What about the age of the sire? How 
old should he be when used for service? 

Ans.: He should not be used until fully 
matured. Never use a sire any longer 
than eight or nine months at a time; never 
use him to excess. 

Use Pure-Bred Sires. 

I have a number of very fine grade brood 
sows and know where I can purchase what 
I consider an especially fine boar. However 
he is only a grade. Would it be advisable 
to use this boar or should I get one that 
is pure-bred? 

Ans.: To raise and maintain the stand- 
ard use only pure-bred sires. Do not put 
too much faith in the outward appearance 
of grade animals. Little dependence can 
be placed upon outward appearance, and 
they v/ill not transmit with any degree of 
certainty their own characteristics. By 
all means use pure-bred sires. 

Better Blood Needed. 

I have been breeding common hogs for 
a number of years and each year they seem 
to be a little less healthy and I have more 
t-'ouble in, getting them in condition to 
sell. What can I do to bring them back 
to a normal condition? I cannot afford to 
buy pure-breds, as I am raising hogs 
simply to sell to the butcher. What would 
you advise me to do? 

Ans.: Use pure- bred sires to build up the 
grade. Life is too sliort to be spent in 
breeding scrubs. 

Correcting Weak Points in the Boar. 

Will it be safe to use a boar with weak 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE. 



points on a sow that is generally strong 
where he is weak? 

Ans.: A boar that has weak points can 
often be used with success on a sow which 
is unusually strong where the boar is de- 
fective, though a weakness in the boar is 
not counter balanced as readily as one in 
the sow, on account of his greater pre- 
potency. 

Pure-bred Boar or Sows? 

I am new to the hog business. Which 
would be better to buy, a pure-bred boar 
or an ordinary boar and pure-bred sows? 
I am going to raise hogs for pork only. 

Ans.: As the boar gives half the blood 
to the whole herd, while one sow can in- 
fluence only her own litter, it is highly 
important that, whatever the sows may 
be, the boar should be pure-bred, and one 
which will give vigorous pigs of good 
form. 

Ase of Breertins Swine. 

Which is better, an aged boar on young 
sows or a young boar on matured sows? 

Ans.: An aged sow mated with a young 
boar will produce pigs which fvill mature 
earlier than those produced when the sow 
is young and the boar aged. This is a 
strong argument in favor of keeping a 
sow as long as she continues to breed 
satisfactorily. 

A Bad Sort of a Breeder. 

I have a pedigreed boar, but he has a 
long liead, neck and legs. Would you 
use him for breeding or is he the right 
type? 

Ans.: The animal described has a form 
that will require a large amount of feed 
to produce a pound of meat and one that 
will not finish for market until he has 
reached considerable age. He w^ould be 
likely to transmit these bad qualities to 
his offspring so you had better get an- 
other boar. 

A Bad Grazing Type. 

I have a boar that walks partially on 
his dew claws. Would he be a good hog 
to head a herd? 

Ans.: You had better not breed from 
him. The fact that he walks partially on 
his dew claws shows a weakness of frame, 
and indicates a poor grazer and an ani- 
mal which Avill break down before he 
reaches a heavy w^eight. 

Buying a Boar — The Age. 

My neighbor has some fine young boar 
pigs about two-and-a-half or three months 
old. Should I buy one now or are they 
too young to tell how they will turn out? 

Ans.: Boars should not be purchased un- 
til they are five or six months old. They 
do not show sufficient form before that 
time to give an accurate idea of how 
they will turn out when fully grown. They 



cost less at weaning time, but their pur- 
chase at this time is a lottery. 
Time to Buy a Boar. 

Should I wait until I need the services 
of a boar before I buy one or is it better 
to have him on hand some time before 
needed? 

Ans.: It is not safe to delay the pur- 
chase until the boar is wanted for service. 
The service is more sure and the boar 
can be handled with much less trouble if 
he has been on the place for a few days 
before he is needed for use. He should 
have time to become accustomed to his 
new quarters before going into service. 
Boar Running AVitli Sows. 

Shall I, let my herd boar run with the 
sows all the time or keep him by himself? 

Ans.: The boar should never be allowed 
to run with the sows, as he will be a con- 
tinual worry both to them and to his own- 
er, and it is much better to keep him 
in a lot where he can neither see nor hear 
other hogs. 

Pedigreed Scrub. 

I have a boar with a long pedigree be- 
hind him, but as ai breeder he seems to 
me a poor animal. Would it be advisable 
to use him and trust to luck and his 
ancestors to produce good pigs? 

Ans.: A poor specimen of a pure-bred 
animal is little better than a scrub, and 
should not be used simply because he has 
a long) pedigree. 

Boar Pigs Not Up to Standard. 

I have a lot of boar pigs that are not 
quite up to standard in some unimportant 
particulars. Could they be sold as strict- 
ly first class animals? Would they stand 
a chance in the show ring? 

Ans.: With even slight defects such ani- 
mals would stand a poor chance in the 
show ring, but breeders are often glad ta 
get such animals as they are just as good 
as any where pork and not show is wanted. 
They would insure better pigs than could 
be expected from equally well-formed 
grades or inferior pure bloods. 

Handling the Boar. 

I have a three-year-old boar that is a 
good getter but he is very thin all the 
time and often seems to lose his appetite. 
Should I use him for a breeder? 

Ans.: You can't afford to raise pigs 
from animals which refuse to fatten, 
which are frequently "off their feed" or 
which have in any way shown anything 
but the most vigorous health. You had 
better dispose of him and try another. 

Selecting a Boar. 

I have a lot of little boar pigs that look 
too good to kill. Would it be advisable to 
keep one to breed to my old sows? 

Ans.: It is usually better to buy a boar 
than to use one which has been raised 
on the place and is related to the sows 
which are to be bred. The introduction 



BREEDING. 



of fresh blood will give larger litters and 
more vigorous pigs than can be expected 
from any close in-breeding. 

Selecting Boars for Breeders. 

I want to know something about select- 
ing boars for breeders. I have some good 
litters and want to make the right selec- 
tion. 

Ans.: The breeders should be the squar- 
est built and best shaped animals in the 
lot. They should be hearty eaters and 
should show a tendency to lay on fat 
rapidly. 

Changing Boars. 

What is the best way to start a herd of 
swine? I have two fine litters of mixed 
sexes. How often should I change boars? 

Ans.: The breeding sows can usually be 
selected from those in the drove, but a 
new boar should be purchased as often as 
the sows have passed their prime and are 
replaced by the offspring of the old boar. 

Selecting a Boar for Fattening equalities. 

How can I tell a boar that is likely 
to produce pigs that will readily fatten? 
I have some young boars and want to 
select one as a breeder. 

Ans.: A short neck and short legs usual- 
ly indicate good fattening- qualities. They 
are even more important in the boar than 
in the sow. The boar should be small- 
boned for his size, but it is all important 
that his frame should have sufficient 
strength to carry him well on his feet. 

Producing Healthy Pigs. 

For a number of years I have been dis- 
appointed in my litters of pigs. My sows 
do not seem to be healthy. Is there any- 
thing- I can do for them that will put them 
in such shape that the^ will bear healthy 
pigs? 

Ans.: To obtain healthy, vigorous off- 
spring-, strong, active parentag-e is of the 
first importance. You had better fatten 
your sows and dispose of them, and select 
new ones for breeders. See that the boar 
is strong- and vigorous. 

Always Buy a Pure-Bred Sire. 

I am just beginning in the hog business 
and find that pure-bred hogs are very ex- 
pensive. I know where I can get a few 
very choice grade sows and also w^hat I 
consider a very fine grade boar. Would 
it be advisable to make a start with grade 
animals or is it cheaper in the end to 
buy pure-breds? 

Ans.: The man w^ho is new to the hog 
business and who cannot afford to pur- 
chase pure-bred hogs, but at the same 
time wishes to improve his herd, should 
always buy pure-bred sires. The grade 
sows will be all right if they possess the 
chara;cteristics and qualities for which 
they are intended. A grade boar, however, 
would tend to upset all of the breeder's 
calculations, as his ancestry "would not tend 
to make him an animal that would produce 



better stock than himself or the sows 
with which he is bred. 

Age to Breed. 

Is a boar six months old, weighing 160 
pounds and in good growing condition, old 
enough to breed to young sows the same 
age? We have fourteen sows. 

Ans.: If the boar is a well developed 
animal for his age you need have no fear 
but what he is able to satisfactorily per- 
form the services required of him, and 
even more if necessary. 

Period of Gestation. 

How long does a sow carry her pigs from 
the time of service? 

Ans.: The period of gestation in hogs 
is from 111 to 113 days, although old sows 
sometimes carry their pigs from 112 to 
117 days. In rouna numbers the period 
is sixteen weeks. 

To Get Sows In Heat. 

How can I make sows come in heat, and 
•will it make any difference in the number 
of pigs, if bred after such treatment? 

Ans.: For a sow weighing two hundred 
pounds, give one quart of wheat for 
three successive feeds. This -will leave 
no ill effects and is said to do the work. 
Feed well and keep in good condition. 

Bringing Sows Into Heat. 

Is there any way to bring a sow into 
heat? I have one that I have -wanted to 
breed for nearly two years but she does 
not come in heat. 

Ans.: There is nothing to give in this 
case that will not injure the animal. Al- 
low her to run with a male as much as 
possible. This is the best you can do. 
If she still refuses to come in heat, fatten 
her up and dispose of her to the butcher 
as soon as possible. 

Penning Before Farrowing. 

How long should a sow be shut up be- 
fore she farrows? 

Ans.: Perhaps three weeks. She knows 
her place and comes there, About two 
weeks before she farrows put her there 
continuously, especially at night. It is 
well to feed the sows roots or potatoes 
every day for five or six weeks before 
they farrow. 

Care of Brood Sow Before Farro-wing. 

I have a sow that I expect to farrow in 
a few weeks. Would it be safe to let her 
in the pen with the others or should 1 
put her by herself? She is very heavy 
and I am almost afraid to -worry her very 
jnuch in her present condition. 

Ans.: A week or ten days before the 
pigs appear put the brood sow in a pen 
by herself so that she will become used to 
her new quarters before farrowing. Han- 
dle her quietly as in her condition rough 
treatment might cause her to abort. 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE. 



Shipping Pregnant Sotcs. 

How near to the time of farrowing will 
it be safe to ship sows a long distance. 

Ans.: It will depend largely on the dis- 
tance which the animals are to be shipped 
and the presence or absence of a competent 
caretaker in the car. It is not very safe 
to ship a sow within three or four weeks 
of the time of farrowing. 

Cross-Breeding. 

Could good results be obtained from 
cross-breeding only one time? 

Ans.: Very likely. If you are going to 
raise pork, select some pure-bred sows 
of the bacon type and cross them with a 
pure-bred lard-type male. This method 
has given very good results for one cross 
but it is dangerous to continue any further 
in this line. 

Cross-Breeding. 

If cross-breeding is continued, what are 
the results? 

Ans.: If cross-breeding is continued for 
any length of time the hogs get smaller 
and smaller, instead of larger. It is a 
very dangerous system of breeding unless 
conducted by those thoroughly experienced 
in the work. 

Cross-Breeding Hogs for Bone. 

Is it wise to cross-breed hogs to keep up 
bone? 

Ans.: It may be done but it is a very 

risky business. The first cross sometimes 
gives a good feeding hog, but it is not a 
good practice on general principles. 
Exercise For Bone. 
Would exercise grow strong bone? 
Ans.: Exercise is an essential, and is 
quite necessary. But bone and muscle 
forming feed is of the first importance. 
In-Breeding. 

Is in-breeding to be recommended? If 
not, why not? 

Ans.: Dr. Manley Miles, in a chapter on 
in-breeding, which is worthy of reflection 
by anyone who wishes to in-breed, says: 
"The most obvious objection to close 
breeding — and it is perhaps the only one 
of importance — Is the difficulty of select- 
ing animals that are free from constitu- 
tional defects and the danger arising 
from the tendency of such defects to be- 
come dominant in the offspring. It must, 
however, be admitted that it is an im- 
portant means of improvement when ju- 
diciously practised and that it consti- 
tutes the only method known of securing 
an accumulation of slight variations in 
a particular direction that it may be de- 
sirable to retain and perpetuate. The 
greatest improvement in the form and 
quality of animals can only be made by 
those who possess the requisite know- 
ledge; and skill to enable them to blend 



and perpetuate all desirable variations 
through a system of rigorous selection 
and close breeding without impairing the 
constitution bj' an accumulation of un- 
desirable characteristics." 

Selecting Future Brood Sows. 

I have a lot of young pigs among which 
are some very fine sows. I have been off- 
ered a good price for these sows but as 
I will need to replace some of my old 
sows, had I better keep these or take nd- 
vantage of the price offered? 

Ans.: When selecting tlie brood sows 
for next season spare those which have 
shown themselves to be good mothers. 
Do not be tempted by price or any other 
consideration to part with them as long 
as they will breed well unless they show 
indications of impaired usefulness. With 
regard to parting with your old sows, 
one good old brood sow is w^orth two 
young ones whose usefulness has not been 
proven. Attention to this matter would 
greatly increase t*he profits of growing 
swine. 

Selecting Breeding Sot«-s. 

I have three sows with litters and I wish 
to go largely into the business. Shall I 
select sows from these litters or buy them 
from outside? 

Ans.: If your hogs are good animals, 
true to type, the sows for breeding can 
bxi selected from the litters. As "like 
produces like" they should always be se- 
lected from large litters from sows which 
are good milkers and good mothers. Don't 
go outside to buy if you have good stock 
at home. 

Poor SoTfs for Breeders. 

I have several sows that refuse to fatten. 
Would they make good breeders? 

Ans.: To save a sow for a breeder sim- 
ply because she is not fat enough to kill 
when the others are, is one of the surest 
ways to secure inferior pigs. Give your 
sows a change of food, plenty of fresh 
water and some salt and charcoal, and 
you ought to be able to get them fat. 

What Age to Breed Sows. 

I have some young sows of splendid 
form. How old should they be before I 
breed; them? 

Ans.: No uniform rule exists in regard 
to the age at which a sow should be 
bred the first time, as more depends on 
the maturity of the animal than its age. 
Sows raised on the place may be bred 
when they are either eight or fourteen 
months old, and if fully developed the 
younger age is usually the better. A 
sow that has been carefully raised should 
weigh 200 pounds at eight months, at 
which age she should be sufficiently ma- 
tured to produce a fair litter of vigorous 
pigs. 



BREEDING. 



A Poor So^v for a Breeder. 

I have a sow that has always had a 
small appetite. Would It be advisable to 
keep her as a breeder or should I fatten 
her off and select another? 

Ans.: A sow that is not a good feeder 
will produce only small litters, will be a 
poor milker, and her pigs will never 
make the quick and even growth neces- 
sary for good profit. By all means sell 
her and get another to take her place. 

Qld SoTts For Breeding'. 

Does it pay to keep old sows for breed- 
ing, rather than to sell them and keep only 
young ones? 

Ans.: It generally does, as mature sows 
breed pigs of stronger vitality and 
stronger bone. The pigs grow faster and 
are less liable to disease ■where mature 
parents are kept. A mature sow would 
not have reached her age if she had not 
been a good mother and produced large, 
healthy litters of pigs. Such a sow that 
has been proven is certainly more valuable 
than a young one that has not been 
tried. 

Breeding Age. 

At what age should a young sow be bred? 

Ans.: A sow should not be bred until 
she is eight months of age and even then 
it would be folly to attempt it unless 
she is a fully matured animal of the 
type desired. 

The Brood Sow. 

How should I select a good brood sow 
out of the herd for the coming season? 

Ans.: "Like will produce like," is an 
old maxim, containing much truth. If 
one has sows that proved themselves good 
mothers in all respects, bringing for their 
first litters six or eight pigs, and raising 
them satisfactorily, it is always better to 
retain a sufficient number of such sows 
and from them select sows in turn. It 
will, if the selection is made with due 
care, in a few years establish a fine herd 
of sows upon which one can rely with 
some certainty for successful breeding, 
although one may have tw^o or three 
distinct lines of sows bred by different 
boars. Of course, the aim should always 
be to increase the uniformity by the 
selection of boars. Always refuse vici- 
ous animals for breeding. A broad, short 
head, wide between the eyes, with droop- 
ing ears, and a mild, large eye, indicate 
good nature and contentment, but never 
mistake sluggishness or inactivity for 
good motherhood. A narrow, long, slim 
head, small, restless eyes, set close to- 
gether, and long, large ears, indicate a 
vicious disposition. 

Breeding Young Sows. 

Is it wise to breed an old boar to young 
sows? 



Ans.: Use fully matured males on sows 
of the same character in order to produce 
large litters of strong, healthy, vigorous 
pigs. Sows that have been developed 
will suckle better and raise more pigs 
than a young one will. But if circum- 
stances are such that one is compelled to 
use a mature boar on young sows, it is 
well to use a breeding crate so that his 
weight is borne up artificially and does 
not injure the sow. As to the results 
of progeny from two extremes, the rec- 
ords speak favorably. 

Re-Breeding Sows. 

Would it be advisable to re-breed an 
old sow the third day after she farrowed? 

Ans.: It is very risky to breed a sow 
the third day after farrowina-. Tf she is 
expected to raise two litters a year her 
pigs should not be weaned until they are 
about two months old. A sow usually 
comes in heat in from one to two weeks 
after her pigs are weaned and if she is 
to be bred again she should be served at 
that time. 

How L,ong Are Sows Profitable T 

How long is it profitable to keep a broorl 
sow? What is the average age to which 
they can be kept? 

Ans.: They have been kept until over 
ten years old. Many are kept until six years 
old but the average age is about three 
years, because some of them are turned 
off after their first litter. The owner 
must settle this question for himself ac- 
cording to the number of pigs produced 
at a litter and the sort of a mother the 
sow makes. Many old sows are more 
profitable than a large number of young 
ones. 

Age Limit of Sows. 

What is the age of a sow when she ceas- 
es to be profitable? 

Ans.: Ordinarily, sows cease to b', 
profitable breeders after they are four or 
five years old, but some raise good litters 
after they reach eight or nine years. When 
a sow more than four years old fails to 
give good litters whenever due, she may 
as well be fattened at once. 

Old Sows or Gilts? 

Which is more profitable, an old sow o.. 
a gilt? 

Ans.: An old sow which regularly vaises 
large litters of good pigs is worth half 
a dozen untried gilts. 

Milking Qualities of a Gilt. 

I have some fine gilts. How can I tell 
if they will make good milkers? 

Ans.: It is impossible to judge accu- 
rately of the milking qualities in a gilt, 
but usually a chunky, easy fattened, 
heavy-boned, and short legged sow is not 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE. 



as g-ood a milker as is the less attractive- 
looking- one with a longer body, longer 
legrs and somewhat less rounded sides. 
Above all, do not select sows for broed- 
ing- purposes unless their dams were .°:ood 
milkers. 

Correcting Defects in the Sotv. 

I have a sow tliat has a few defects but 
she is a g'ood milker and a fine mother 
and I hate to part witii her. Is there any 
other way out of the difficulty? 

Ans. : Many defects of form in the breed- 
ing sow may, to a great extent, be cor- 
rected in her offspring- by mating her 
with a boar which is unusually strong- 
where she is weak. If the sow it too long- 
headed, long-necked and long--bodied, she 
should be mated with a boar having the 
opposite characteristics; if the sow has 
weak legs and her dew claws touch the 
g-round, tlie boar should have unusually 
strong and straight legs; if the sow is 
sway-backed tlie boar should have his 
back well arched, etc. 

WieanlnK Pig-s. 

What JP a good wa^y to wean pig's? 
Ans.: Try the little fellows with some 
oats. See that they have their own 
trough with a thin milk and middling 
slop. If this is provided wliile they are 
Still nursing it will help to wean them 
g-radually and easily. 

Weaning-. 

How old should pigs be at tlae time of 
weaning-? 

Ans.: Few farmers like to wean little 
pig-s at all, unless they -want to re-breed 
the sow; then, perhaps, when they are two 
months old. Let them -wean themselves, 
but if you are going to wean them, shut 
the brood sow up and let the little pigs 
run out on the pasture and come in 
to the sow when they want to. Tlie sow 
Is fed dry feed and in a few days the 
pigs wean themselves. See that they have 
their own little trough -where they can g-et 
some sweet milk until the weaning- is 
over. 

A (Question in Weaning. 

How is the best way to wean pigs? 

Ans.: Oive the pigs all the solid food 
they will eat up clean while sucking-, 
and they will become accustomed to it 
gradually. When the time comes to sep- 
arate them from the sow, at about the 
end of the eig-hth week, they will iio so 
well prepared for the change that they 
will scarcely notice it. 

IVur.sing Pig,s. 

How long should pigs be allowed to 
nurse the sows? 

Ans.: Until they g-et ashamed of them- 
selves. Don't be in too big a hurry to 



wean them, especially if the sow is a 
g-ood milker. If the sow is to have 
two litters a year wean the pig-s when 
they are a little over two months old, 
otherwise let the sow wean them. 

Breeding Twice a Year. 

Is it advisable to breed sows twice a 
year? 

Ans,.: As a rule, no. In a cold climate 
one litter is generally considered enough, 
though two litters can be had if tlie 
sows are g-iven proper care. Such breed- 
ing should never be a practice if you aie 
breeding from young- sows. If they have 
g-one through the strain of breeding and 
raising- a litter they should not be ex- 
posed again, but everything should be 
done to perfect their health and growth. 
If you wisli to breed two litters in one 
year take old sows to do it. 

T-wo Litters a Year. 

If two litters of pigs a year are desired 
what is the best time for them to be born 
and how soon after their birth in the 
spring should the sows take the boar? 

Ans.: If two litters a year are wanted 
in a cold climate, September and March 
would be the best times for birth. With 
fall pigs coming in September there is 
still time for them to make considerable 
gains on pasture before winter sets in, 
if suitable forag-e has been prepared for 
them. This will make the production of 
pork much cheaper than when they come 
a little later and have to go on mill 
feed immediately after being weaned. 
When the second litter comes in March, 
by the time the little fellows are ready 
to wean or a little after they can be 
turned into a pasture of winter rye and 
will make good g-ains on this until other 
pasture is ready. Wlien two litters a year 
are desired the sow should be re-bred 
two months after farrowing, which is gen- 
erally the first heat after the pigs are 
weaned. When only one litter is desired; 
which some breeders consider the best 
plan in this latitude, the pig-s may run 
witli the dam much longer and the sow 
need not be re-bred for sixteen or eigh- 
teen -weeks after farrowing-. 

Number of Litters a Year. 

Should sows have one or two litters a 
year? 

Ans.: This must be decided according 
to the breeder's convenience. When com- 
fortable shelter is provided and g-ood 
pasture can be secured, October pigs are 
usually as profitable as those farrov/ed 
in the spring-. March and April pigs come 
at a season when they need little care and 
can be carried through the summer on 
pasture at a small cost. Sows of mature 
ag-e are usually strong and should have no 



BREEDING, 



trouble in raising two litters each year if 
they receive good care. 

Number of Litters. 

Is it profitable to raise more than one 
litter of pigs from a sow a year, and when 
should I breed her? 

Ans.: It does not pay to kill the rf-oose 
that lays the golden egg. A good brood 
sow is about as profitable an animal as a 
person can own, and one cannot push all 
sows for all that is in them. A young 
sow should not have two litters the flr-^t 
year, but the two-year-old sow can, as 
well as not, providing one has comfortable 
shelter, so as to have her farrow about 
March 1st. Then let the pigs nurse until 
May 10th. If she and her pigs have been 
liberally fed, she can be bred again in 
May, so as to farrow in September. But 
do not forget that the whole aim and 
secret is live growth, obtained from the 
greatest flow of milk. Therefore very 
liberal and judicious feeding must go 
hand in hand, and only the strongest and 
most vigorous sows should be used for 
this purpose. 

One Litter Each Year. 

I have decided that in this cold climate 
it is best to have but one litter a year. 
Under such conditions would it not be 
possible and also best to allow the pigs 
to stay on the sows a little longer than 
where two litters are raised annually? 

Ans.: A prominent stockman struck tho 
nail on the head when he said: "When 
only one litter of pigs is raised a year 
allow them to run with the old sow until 
they get ashamed and wean themselves." 

Fbll Litters. 

Why do some farmers object to raising 
a fall litter? 

Ans.: In the first place, some would not 
want to if they could safely, as they can 
see no money in fall litters. They claim 
that the pigs come too late to get any 
pasture the first year and are sold before 
they can get anything from them the 
next season. That means they have to 
be raised on grain alone, which makes 
pork very expensive. In order to raise 
the second litter the first litter has to 
be weaned very young unless they come 
early in March which injures them, and 
the second litter often so reduces the 
vitality of the mother that they are read.v 
to take the first disease that is in the 
country. It has been claimed that more 
than 90 per cent of the hog cholera starts 
with the farmers who raise fall litters. 

Spring: or Fall Born Pigs. 

When is a good time for the pigs to be 
dropped, — spring or fall? 

Ans.: If only one litter a year is ex- 
pected, just as soon in the spring as they 
can get out on the earth. Fall pigs, un- 



less it be a few to take the skim milk, 
as a rule are unprofitable as they of ne- 
cessity have to be raised on grain instead 
of pasture and are very expensive to 
grow. 

Fall or Spring Pigs? 

Which is more profitable, to have the 
pigs come in the spring and feed them up 
to 200 or 250 pounds selling them in the 
late fall, or to have fall pigs, winter 
them cheaply, just keeping them growing:, 
turn to pasture in the spring and fatten 
in the fall at from twelve to fifteen months 
of age? 

Ans.: The first plan is better as in 
winter the hog is a consumer of expensive 
foods, and the amount it takes to get 
th'cm through the winter would carry the 
spring pigs up to the fattening Mme. 
There is one advantage in fall pigs and 
that is that they may be fattened to 
turn off on the summer and early fall mar- 
ket which is usually higher than In the 
late fall and winter. 

Time for Spring Litters. 

When is a good time to have spring 
litters come? 

Ans.: Some farmers do not want their 
sows to farrow until the pigs can get out 
on the round, while others prefer the last 
half of April. Those who intend to raise 
two litters arrange so as to have their 
sows farrow as early in March as possible 
so as to re-breed them the latter part 
of May. 

Number of Pigs a Sow Should Have. 

How many pigs should a sow have be- 
fore she is butchered? 

Ans.: That will depiend on the sow. 
When a young sow has only four or five 
pigs, or shows herself to be a poor milker 
or a careless mother, the sooner she is 
fattened the better; but if she does fairly 
well she should be given a second trial. 
The second litter is usually larger than 
the first. If she then proves a good 
mother and her pigs develop into p-'^od 
porkers, she should be kept as a breeder 
until she can be replaced by a more 
prolific and better animal. 

Number of Pigs to the Litter. 

I have two brood sows five and six years 
old respectively. One has never had more 
than four pigs at a time while the other 
has never had less then thirteen. What 
is generally considered the right number 
of pigs for sows to have on an average? 

Ans.: Seven or eight pigs to the litter 
is the proper caper. If there are more 
it seems to be at the expense of quality, 
and if there are less it is at the expense 
of profit. 

Large Litters. 

Which has the most to do with large 
litters of pigs, the sire or dam? Does it 
depend on the condition they are in? 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE. 



Ans.: No one can expect uniformly g-ood 
results from either sows or boars unless 
they enjoy their full vigor. If litters are 
uniformly small throughout the herd, 
especially if sows are of different strains, 
the sire would be at fault, but if only 
certain sows farrow small litters, the 
fault must be with them and they should 
be sent to the block and sows from large 
litters substituted In their places. 

Number of Pigs Dropped. 

Is there any plan to have sows drop 
more than five pigs? 

Ans.: Yes, it is possible to increase the 
fecundity of sows by intelligent selection, 
and then it becomes the rule rather than 
the exception. Select sows from fertile 
mothers, and at the same time select sires 
out of prolific families, and do not allow 
immature breeding. This will invariably 
result in larger litters. 

Artificial Abortion. 

I have a registered sow that got to a 
scrub boar about two weeks ago, and if 
she is with pig I want to know if there 
isn't sometliing I can give her to cause 
her to lose them soon. I want to breed 
her to my registered boar. 

Ans.: The only alternative now for you 
is an operation by a competent veteri- 
narian, and even that is rather dangerous. 
The medicines used to gain the results 
desired are not always successful and 
are generally very dangerous. Fluid ex- 
tract of ergot is the drug used in such 
cases. Teaspoonful doses every three 
hours until it has the desired effect. The 
method can hardly be recommended. 

Sow Overlying Her Young. 

I have a very good sow, but the last time 
she farrowed she seemed to be quite ex- 
cited and either trampled some of her pigs 
to death or else lay on them. Otherwise 
she is a very good sow and if I could pre- 
vent this trouble I would not think of kill- 
ing her. Is there anything I can do? 

Ans.: A careless mother will lose jome 
pigs the best you can do. As farrowing 
time approaches be sure the sow is in 
a pen by herself with a good strong rail 
or plank around the sides, standing out 
some 8 or 10 inches and about 8 inches 
from the ground. This will prevent the 
sow from rolling or tramping on her pigs 
and while very simple, it often means the 
profit or loss of the litter. 

Losing Pigs After FarrOTvlng. 

One of my sows farrowed during a very 
cold day. I thought she could take care 
of them so left her alone. How could I 
have saved the pigs? 

Ans.: When it Is very cold the pigs 
should be taken away as fast as they are 
born and put in a warm basket, but 
should be returned to the sow as soon as 
she is through. If pigs are worth breed- 



ing, they are worth caring for, and M'hea 
the farrowing is properly looked after 
the losses will be very small. 
Trouble in Farrowing. 
What should be done when a sow cannot 
give birth to all her pigs and what is the 
cause of this condition? Two of my young 
sows were bred before I intended they 
should be, and during the month of Jan- 
uary cold weather prevented them from 
receiving the proper amount of exercise. 
They farrowed about the middle of Febru- 
ary and there are only four pigs left out of 
fourteen. Some were born dead, others 
died soon after birth and one of the sows 
could not give birth to all her pigs. The 
entire trouble I blame to lack of exercise 
during the latter part of the period of 
gestation. Is there an instrument that I 
could use in such cases? 

Ans.: In mentioning the lack of exer- 
cise you have no doubt located at '.east 
one of the causes of the sows being un- 
able to farrow properly and also the rea- 
son for weak or dead pigs. However, this 
is probably not the only cause. It is 
very evident that the sows were too 
young and of course their size at farrow- 
ing time might have something to do 
with their inability to deliver themselves 
of the entire litter. Another very impor- 
tant cause of the above mentioned trouble 
is too heavy feeding of grain while the 
sows were in pig and lack of laxative 
foods during the latter part of the jsriod 
of gestation. Breeders make it a practice 
of using oats or barley as a very promi- 
nent part of the ration for brood sows 
and add oil meal or bran quite frequently. 
In a case such as above mentioned some 
farmers give a dose of linseed oil about 
four days before farrowing and find 'hat 
it proves beneficial. However, this should 
not be administered previous to a week 
before farrowing time as it might cause 
abortion. Constipation is another cause 
of this trouble, especially among young 
sows and this can be avoided largely by 
the foregoing method. In sows that are 
small the trouble in farrowing generally 
comes after the pig has left the womb 
and reaches the pelvic arch. In such 
a case they can be located easily and 
there are various instruments used to 
extract them. A very plain method is to 
take a wire hook and insert this m the 
pig's mouth, having it catch on the lower 
Jaw. However, this method is rather 
rough and likely to injure the young pig. 
A better instrument is a regular pig 
forceps which can be purchased in any 
hardware store at a cost of about $1.00. 
When attempting to remove the young 
pigs while they are still alive care should 
be taken not to injure the tongue in any 
way or the pig will be unable to suck 
and will soon die. 

Loss of Pigs. 
I had five sows to come in the first of 



FEEDING HOGS. 



April and lost all the pigs. Most of them 
were born dead, and the few tliat were 
born alive died a few hours after birth. 
All were born without hair and varying 
in size. The time of mating until the far- 
rowing varied from 112 to 118 days. The 
sows have been fed ground wheat screen- 
ings and corn-and-cob meal, all steamed, 
and fed warm three times a day with swill. 
They look in good order. They have been 
allowed to run around the yard and clean 
u_p droppings after cattle that were fed 
soft corn on stalk. They have had salt 
and ashes. 

Ans.: The cause may be due to injury 
by the cattle which they were with, or 
due to something they have eaten which 
has caused a derangement of the nerve 
centers. The first cause is probably the 
one. 

Pigs Die Soon After Birth. 

Had two brood sows last winter; they 
wintered in good shape and looked fine 
until they farrowed; the litters got sick 
and died, as did also one of the sows. The 
other got stiff and gaunt and would eat 
only enough to keep her alive. She has 
continued so all summer though slightly 
improved now. What is the trouble, its 
cause and cure? 

Ans.: Without knowing how the sows 
were fed and cared for it would be im- 
possible to tell what was the trouble with 
the pigs. In all probability there was 
something not quite right about the food 
or feeding. But it would be useless to 
try and tell what the trouble may have 
been without more information. 

Breeding With a View of Fattening. 

Would it be advisable to breed sows 
after farrowing with a view to have them 
fatten more easily after the pigs are 
weaned? 

Ans.: All things considered, it would 
be better not to breed the sow again 
after farrowing where they are intended 
to be fattened. 



Early Maturity. 

Is much importance attached to early 
maturity? 

Ans.: Yes, a person should select a hog 
that is reasonably well matured, but not 
so early matured that they do not have 
size and constitution. 

Raising Pure-Bred Animals. 

I have some pretty good hogs although 
thev are not pure-breds. Would there be 
money in raising this sort of stock to sell 
for breeding purposes? 

Ans.: The man who is raising hogs to 
be sold as breeding animals can not be 
too careful to breed only pure-breds. If 
you were going into the pork business 
your idea w^ould be a good one if you 
have good strong stock. You w^ould cer- 
tainly fall down should you attempt to 
raise anything but pure-breds to sell for 
breeders. 

Breed vs. Feed. 

My neighbor and I have gotten Into a 
dispute as to which is of the greater im- 
portance in successful hog raising, breed- 
ing or feeding. 

Ans.^: Neither feed nor breed alone 
makes the good hog, but a judicious 
combination of the two. 

Brolcen Down Pigs. 

If pigs break down, is there any way 
of building them up again for breeders? 

Ans.: The older they get the worse they 
get. Be careful never to use a pig of 
that kind for breeding purposes, for the 
reason that there is no defect that it 
will transmit as soon as this one. It 
doesn't matter how good the hog is other- 
wise if it has this defect don't breed 
from it. 



Feeding. 



Feeding Hogs. 

Feeding the Boar. 

How should a boar be fed so that he 
will do better service? I haven't enough 
sows for two boars but they seem to be 
almost too much for one. 

Ans.: Keep him as quiet as possible, and 
his food should be such as will give him 
strength and vitality, but not too fatten- 
ing. He will do better service when he 
has sufficient grazing to give him exercise 
and only sufficient grain food to keep 
him in good condition without becoming 
so fat as to be heavy and unwieldy. 



Feeding Fattening Hogs. 

Should fattening hogs be fed all they 
will eat? 

Ans.: Do not feed them any more than 
they will eat up clean. More than this 
is only a waste and is apt to get them 
"off their feed." 

Corn for Fattening Hogs. 

I have a lot of hogs to fatten this fall 
and not very much corn to give tliem. 
Had I better sell off the entire bunch or 
try to get along with some other foods? 

Ans.: There are still those who firmly 
believe that corn is the only hog food. 
While it is perhaps better than any other 
one food, yet it is not necessarily the only 



10 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE. 



food for hog-s. In a series of experiments 
conducted by the Iowa Experiment Station 
they found: 1. That in the fattening of 
young- hogs a ration containing- more 
protein and ash than a corn ration gave 
better results than a ration of corn alone. 

2. That a ration consisting of five parts 
of corn and one part of S-wift's tankage 
yielded over thirty-four per cent gr-aater 
net profits than a ration of corn alone. 

3. That a ration consisting of five parts 
corn and one part Darling's beef meal 
yielded over twenty-t-wo per cent greater 
net profits than a ration of corn alone. 4. 
That a ration of corn and standard food 
yielded over ten per cent greater net profits 
than a ration of corn alone. 5. That a ration 
consisting of five parts corn and one part 
Armour's tankage yielded over seven per 
cent g-reater net profits than a ration of 
corn alone. With these results from such 
a corn state as Iowa, Minnesota farm- 
ers should get down to business and put 
aside the exploded theory that corn is 
the only hog food and that there is no 
use trying- to buck up against the corn 
belt states in the production of pork. 

Profitable Way to Feed Corn. 

What is the most profitable way to feed 
corn to fattening hogs? 

Ans.: The most profitable way ia to 
feed on a feed floor that is kept clean, 
and feed no more at any time than the 
fattening animals will eat up quickly 
and clean. If the corn is very dry and 
flinty, it will pay to shell and soak it, es- 
pecially for young- pigs. Even .^hv^Ued 
corn should be scattered on a feed floor 
rather than fed in troughs, as the pig-s 
will pick it up more- slowly and masticate 
it more fully and will get needed exercise 
doing it. 

Corn Fattened Hogs. 

Is it economy to fatten hogs wholly on 
corn and water, or would it be better to 
g-ive a portion of the feed ground and in 
slop? What slop should be fed, and what 
should it consist of in connection with 
corn? 

Ans.: Mature hogs can be fattened on 
corn and water, but growing hogs should 
have some slop feed. They have muscle 
and bone to make as well as fat to put on 
and this requires a growing feed. Wheat 
middlings or wheat middlings and oil 
meal make the best slop. When barley 
is cheap one-third barley meal might be 
used. 

Feeding Corn in tlie Com Belt. 

We have been feeding our hogs mostly 
corn the year through and we notice that 
they are susceptible to disease. Is there 
any way we can avoid this trouble? 

Ans.: In the corn belt much better re- 
sults could be obtained by feeding more 
succulent foods such as clover and peas 



in combination with the corn. This would 
also render the hogs less liable to dis- 
ease. Corn alone is an unbalanced ration 
and is not good for the hogs when fed 
that way. 

Balancing tlie Ration. 

I had a lot of corn left over from last 
year. How will it do to feed it this sum- 
mer to my hogs? 

Ans.: Corn is too heating a food to be 
fed alone to hogs during the summer. 
Where it is given in large amounts green 
and succulent foods must be provided to 
balance the ration. There is nothing bet- 
ter than clover or field peas for hog 
pasture. Where the above foods are grown 
on the farm and fed in a combination with 
roots, good results always follow. 

Amount of Corn Necessary to Feed a Hog. 

If fed judiciously, how much corn will it 
take to fatten a hog, say to about 250 or 
300 pounds? 

Ans.: A well bred hog properly fed 
will convert one bushel of corn into 12 
pounds of pork. 

Corn for Hogs. 

I haive a few hundred bushels of corn. 
Would it pay to buy hogs and feed it to 
them this fall rather than to sell the corn 
for 35 or 40 cents a bushel? 

Ans.: If you have got the right kind 
of hogs, that Is, good feeders, and give 
them personal attention, it would be more 
profitable to feed your corn than to sell it 
at 35 or 40c a bushel. 

Tlie Value of Corn as a Footl. 

How much pork Is one bushel of corn 
calculated to produce? 

Ans.: One bushel of corn fed to good, 
thrifty hogs should produce from 10 to 12 
pounds of meat. 

Green Corn. 

Will green corn cause hog cholera? 

Ans.: Green corn in large quantities 
will disarrange^ a hog's stomach so that 
it is very apt to take hog cholera. Cholera 
is caused by a disease germ and the weak- 
er animals, such as those fed too largely 
on a corn diet, are more apt to fall a 
prey to it than those fed a mixed ration 
and consequently are healthier. 

Green Corn for Hogs. 

I have a considerable amount of green 
corn that was planted too late for the ears 
to mature before frost. If I cut it and 
feed it green to my hogs can I feed them 
for market this way? 

Ans.: Green corn, stalk and all, is a 
good starter for the hogs but it must 
not be their entire ration. Some dry feed 
such as old corn or barley with a little oil 
meal is indispensable in keeping up their 
strength and regulating their bowels. 



FEEDING HOGS. 



11 



Green Fodder for Hogs. 

I have a lot of green fodder corn over 
and above what is necessary to fill my 
silo. I also have a lot of hogs and the 
pasture is running- short. Would it pay 
to feed this fodder corn to my hogs and 
how mucii should I give them? 

Ans.: Fodder corn makes an excellent 
hog food during the fall. If possible 
cut it for them every day, and give them 
all that they will eat up clean. While 
it is green the hogs will chew it all up, 
ear and stak, and there will not be the 
waste that would of course follow if the 
fodder were dried. 

Feeding Screenings and Corn. 

What would be the best way of feeding 
hogs wheat screenings, ground or whole? 
Corn, shelled or on the cob? 

Ans.: Soak the screenings and if pos- 
sible in cold weather strain and feed to 
stock in a thin condition. Feed the corn 
direct without any preparation unless it 
is very hard. In such a case it would be 
better to soak it. 

Value of Wlieat. 

How much is wheat worth to feed, when 
hogs are worth $3.50 per hundredweight? 

Ans.: The average feeder will not make 
more than 10 pounds of live weight from 
60 pounds of wheat. Including the tolls 
and grinding, it would be worth 35c per 
bushel. 

Wheat for Hogs. 

Is dry, unground wheat good feed to fat- 
ten hogs, or would it be better to grind 
it? 

Ans.: For hogs wheat will give better 
results if ground before feeding. 

AVinter Rye. 

How does winter rye compare with corn 
for fattening purposes? 

Ans.: Winter rye does not compare 
favorably with corn for fattening; as 
Rogs would soon tire of an exclusive rye 
feed. 

Speltz for STvine. 

V\''ill speltz furnish a good food for 
swine? 

Ans.: While the hull is so coarse that in 
the unground form it would not make a 
first class hog food, when ground it is 
quite palatable. It could be used to ad- 
vantage along with barley and oats. It 
is a food that will probably prove more 
valuable to farmers north rather than 
south of the latitude of St. Paul. 

Tlie Vaiue of Speltz for Hogs. 

How about the advisability of raising 
speltz for hogs. What is its value for 
feeding purposes compared with barley? 

Ans.: Speltz, pound for pound, is not 
considered quite equal to barley for feed- 
ing purposes. It has a larger amount 
of pulp than barley, consequently it is not 



quite so perfect a food for hogs. Ex- 
periments at the South Dakota station 
tend to show that it is not quite so 
good as barley, although it is a very good 
food if fed in proper combinations. 
There are sections of the country where 
it will yield far more than barley, especial- 
ly in places where hardy grain is re- 
quired. For North and South Dakota, it 
would be safe to sow at least a limited 
area of it on trial with other crops. 

Ground Speltz for Hogs. 

Is ground speltz to be recommended as 
a grain ration for hogs? 

Ans.: Speltz is said to make a very- 
fair hog feed when ground and made into 
slop. Where corn and other grains can 
be raised successfully you should not 
bother with speltz, as it has too much 
hull to make it an ideal hog feed. 

Millet Seed for Fattening Swine. 

Is millet seed a good feed for fattening 
swine and would it pay to grow it for this 
purpose alone? 

Ans.: The South Dakota Experiment 
Station made some extensive experiments 
in fattening swine on millet seed with the 
following results: 1. Millet seed can be 
grown profitably as a fattening ration 
for swine. 2. It doesn't furnish as good 
a ration as either barley or wheat for 
swine. 3. On account of being so well 
adapted to the conditions of that state 
and so palatable a feed, where you have 
a place in the rotation of crops for it, 
it should be grown on every stock farm. 
4. It was not sq profitable to feed for a 
period of 84 days as it was for 56 days 
as the rate of gain decreased. 5. The 
carcasses of the lot fed on millet were 
clothed with pure fat of superior quality 
as compared with the fat of those fat- 
tened on barley and wheat. 6. It required 
1-5 more millet than it did barley meal 
and a trifle more barley meal than it did 
wheat to make a pound of gain. 7. A 
bushel of 56 pounds of millet is equal to 
a bushel of 48 pounds of barley for hog 
feed. 8. Millet meal was found not to be 
so good for a. fattening ration as barley 
meal or wheat meal during extremely cold 
weather. 

31illet for Hogs. 

Is millet good feed for pigs? 

Ans.: Those who have fed millet seed 
to pigs claim very good results from us- 
ing it. However, it would be well to use 
caution until the right amount to feed 
can be determined. 

Flax Seed for Hogs. 

Would it be well to give hogs of about 
150 pounds some flax seed once in a while 
to tone them up? If so, how often and 
how much? 

Ans.: It would be much better to feed 



12 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE. 



ground oil cake than flax seed for this 
purpose. Not more than % of a pound 
should be fed per animal per day, and 
sometimes every other day would be often 
enoug-h to feed that quantity. To feed 
much flax would likely impair the ap- 
petite of the pig-s. 

Linseed Meal. 

Is linseed meal good for hogs and pigs? 

Ans.: If linseed meal can be obtained 
at reasonable prices, compared with other 
grains, all right. It constitutes, as a 
small part of the ration, the essential 
elements of bone-and muscle-forming 
food, being of a highly nitrogenous na- 
ture; besides this, it prevents constipation 
and thus promotes health. 

Oil Oake for Fattening. 

Is it wise to feed oil cake to fattening 
hogs? 

Ans.: Feeding ground oil cake is good 
under all and every condition. There is 
nothing that gives so much satisfaction as 
a ration that contains oil cake. Be care- 
ful not to feed it too liberally at first. 
They need only enough to keep the bow- 
els in good order. 

Oil Meal. 

Is oil meal a good feed for hogs? 

Ans.: It is. Begin on a very small ra-- 
tion. however. It should be mixed with 
other feed and give only enough to keep 
the bowels free. 

Barley Meal. 

Is barley meal good for hog feed? 

Ans.: Barley meal is good food for 
hogs, providing there Is some shorts 
mixed with it, as hogs will tire of clear 
barley meal. It is well to mix it with 
boiled potatoes. 

Corn-and-Cob Meal. 

Is it better to feed corn ground with the 
cobs, and to what animals may it be fed 
to advantage? 

Ans.: It may be fed to fattening steers, 
cows and fattening hogs. It has been 
found that hogs will make the same live 
gain with 100 pounds corn-and-cob meal 
as with 100 pounds of clear meal, but it 
should be ground fine for hogs. 

Spoiled Beans for Hogs. 

1 have several bushels of beans which 
spoiled during heavy rains last fall. Some 
have sprouted and others turned yellow. 
Will they make good hog feed if I get 
them ground? 

Ans.: Provided these beans are not rot- 
ted there is no reason why they should 
not furnish an excellent food for hogs. 
Tou might grind the beans and feed them 
mixed with middlings in the form of a 
slop. This should make an excellent ra- 



tion for young pigs and there is no reas- 
on why it should injure the flesh. 

Creamery Milk for Hogs. 

Is there any danger in feeding creamery 
milk to hogs? 

Ans.: There is no danger in feeding 
creamery milk to pigs, but there is dan- 
ger and loss in feeding it to excess. In 
order to get the full value of skim milk 
with little pigs just weaned or being 
weaned, the milk should be at least 
eighty or ninety degrees F'., and should 
be sweet. 

Hogs Without Dairy. 

Would it pay to raise hogs if I do not 
keep a dairy? 

Ans.: If possible you should keep both a 
dairy and hogs. Hogs can be raised 
without milk, but better hogs and cheap- 
er hogs can be raised with it. 

Buttermilk for Hogs. 

What is the value of buttermilk for 
hogs? 

Ans.: It has about the same value as 
sweet skim milk. Its value will vary 
with the price of the grain being fed at 
the time. 

Buttermilk or Skim Milk? 

Which is the most profitable to feed 
hogs, buttermilk from the creamery or 
skim milk? 

Ans.: Something depends on the age of 
the hogs and the condition of the milk. 
For brood sows nursing their young and 
for young pigs, good, sweet skim milk is 
better than buttermilk. For large hogs 
there is probably very little difference in 
the feeding value of the two as ordinarily 
obtained from the creamery. 

Swill. 

How many times a day should hogs be 
fed swill? 

Ans.: Twice a day in the winter. A 
horse fed in the morning a full feed of 
oats, four or six quarts, and then filled 
up with water, will not get all the good- 
ness of the oats. Practice that same idea 
with your hogs; if you always feed them 
the slop first and the dry feed afterwards, 
they will do better than to reverse it. 

Swill AVliile Fattening. 

Should any swill be fed while fattening? 

Ans.: Yes. Hogs that fatten easily are 
usually pigs that have grown well. To 
feed economically they must have a grow- 
ing feed. There is nothing better than 
wheat middlings or shorts for this pur- 
pose, and wlien fed in connection with 
corn makes a very good fattening ration. 

Sulphur or Copperas in Slop. 

Would it be wise to put sulphur, cop- 
peras, salt or baking soda in hogs' slop? 



FEEDING HOGS. 



13 



Ans.: No. If you want to feed any or 
all of the above mix it with -wood ashes 
and then they would not be compelled to 
eat more than they w^anted, as they would 
in case you fed with slop. A consider- 
able quantity of salt mixed with swill 
becomes poison to hogs. 

Squash Feeding. 

How should squash be fed? 

Ans.: Feed them both raw and steamed. 
The advantage the squash has over the 
pumpkin is that if the pumpkin freezes it 
is worthless; but it is not so with the 
squash. Three or four loads of squash 
can be put in a straw pile and used in 
December and January. In the winter 
time they can be steamed. Cut them up, 
put them in a barrel, and steam them 
thoroughly. Then mix the other food 
with them. Do not use the hard shell; 
use the larger yellow variety of squash. 
Remember when feeding the animals, es- 
P/Ocially if you have fed them on grain 
or corn, that their teeth have become 
sore, and it is better to cut the squash. 

Pumpkins in Winter. 

Should pumpkins be fed to hogs in win- 
ter? 

Ans.: If they could be kept from freez- 
ing and rotting a few would be good for 
succulence. However, they are no good 
if allowed to freeze. 

Wlien to Feed Pumplilns. 

Should one begin to feed pumpkins 
when green or wait until they are ripe? 

Ans.: Do not feed pumpkins until they 
are ripe. They are then more whole- 
some than when green and the feeder 
then has his pumpkin crop to fall back on 
after the pasture is short or entirely 
gone. 

Roots. 

Are roots good feed for hogs? 

Ans.: Roots are considered among the 
best of feed but they must be fed very 
moderately, particularly to young stock. 

Mangels for Hogs. 

Are mangels good for hogs? 

Ans.: They are. There are many in- 
stances where hogs are fed mangels with 
very little grain and grow very nicely 
on them. 

Roots for Swine. 

I have grown quite a root crop with the 
intention of feeding them to swine, but 
one of my neighbors tells me that they 
make a poor hog food. What shall I do 
with them? 

Ans.: If you have a lot of roots, 600 
pounds of them will save you about 100 
pounds of grain in the feeding of swine. 
You had better not listen to the advice of 
your neighbor in this regard until he can 



back up his statements by actual experi- 
ence. 

Sugar Beets for Hog*. 

Will sugar beets fatten hogs? What 
had I better raise for hogs? In this coun- 
try roots do well. 

Ans.: Sugar beets are an excellent food 
for fattening swine, but grain should be 
fed freely along with them. Brood sows 
will winter well on sugar beets. The 
cheapest roots to raise for swine are 
rutabagas or mangels. They require less 
labor than any other roots except turnips. 

Small Potatoes for Swine. 

I have just sorted over my potatoes and 
find that I have two or three hundred 
bushels of very small ones. How mvich 
would thev be worth per bushel if fed to 
swine? Would they be improved by '"ook- 
ing and about how many pounds should 
be fed daily to each good sized shoat? 

Ans.: Numerous experiments in feeding 
small potatoes to swine indicate that at 
average hog prices they are worth about 
10 cents per bushel for this purpose. They 
are certainly much improved by cooking, 
and a good sized shoat can make use of 
from ten to fifteen pounds per day. 

Feeding Value of Potatoes. 

What is the relative feeding value of 
potatoes compared with rutabagas or 
mangels, for hogs? 

Ans.: Potatoes possess the highest feed- 
ing value of the three, but no one of these 
foods alone could be relied upon as a 
food for swine. It would depend largely 
upon the cost of production and feeding 
them in conjunction with grain. It takes 
450 pounds of potatoes to equal 100 
pounds of corn meal. 

Potatoes for Hogs. 

How are potatoes for hogs? 
Ans.: They are very good ih small 
quantities fed raw to breeding stock in 
winter, as they give succulence. They 
have to be cooked if they are to be fed 
at a profit in any considerable quantities. 
Do not feed potatoes to any great extent 
if they can be put on the market at any- 
thing like a fair price. 

Silage tor Hogs. 

Is silage good feed for hogs? 

Ans.: Ensilage is said to be very good 
feed for hogs when fed in small quanti- 
ties along with some grain. 

Pushing Hogs for Market. 

I have a number of hogs that I am push- 
ing for market as fast as possible. Can 
they stand excessive crowding or is there 
anything I might do that might add to 
their general health? 

Ans.: When hogs are under high pres- 
sure, like any other high pressure ma- 
chine, they must have the most careful at- 
tention. While they are being pushed ."or 



14 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE. 



market, furnish water, salt, charcoal or 
crushed soft coal, and a comfortable bed. 
These are all very necessary to the good 
health of his hog-ship and the profit of 
the owner. 

Mixed Pood. 

Which is the better food for hogs, wheat 
alone, or mixed with barley, both being 
ground fine? 

Ans.: A mixed food will always give 
better results, but if using only one, 
when the hogs are growing, the wheat 
would give better results. When fatten- 
ing, it would give satisfactory results. 

One Food or a Variety? 

Should I feed my hogs corn all the time? 
I have lots of it, or would it be better to 
feed a variety? 

Ans.: It should be the object of every 
hog raiser to induce his animals to eat as 
much as possible, and the greater the 
variety in the diet the greater will be tha 
amount of feed consumed. The cheapest 
hog food is a crop ths^t they can harvest 
themselves, supplemented with grain and 
other foods suited to the age and condition 
of the animals. 

Number of Meals a Day. 

How many times should hogs be fed a 
day? 

Ans.: Hogs should be fed three tim.es 
a day, at regular feeding houi-s, and 
twice a day when on pasture; but should 
always have access to pure water. 



Feeding Brood Sows. 

Feeding Brood Sows. 

How should brood sows be fed? 

Ans.: Feed them whole oats scattered 
thinly over a feed floor, wheat bran, and 
a little corn in cold weather to keep up 
the animal heat. Give them all the clo- 
ver hay they will eat. Remember they 
must have plenty of exercise and sun- 
shine with good wholesome food, if strong 
healthy litters are to be expected. 

Increasing the Size of Litters. 

I have a number of sows. Is there anv- 
thing that I can feed them that will tend 
to increase the size of their litters? I have 
had very poor results in this regard of 
late. 

Ans.: If you wish a large number of 
healthy pigs next spring, don't feed the 
brood sows with the fattening hogs. 
The bone and muscle feed that is com- 
monly given to cows would better suit 
their needs. 

Feed for Brood Sow iu Summer. 

What is the best feed for a brood sow 
in summer? 

Ans.: A run on pasture that has a good 



mixture of clover, mill feed made into 
slop, and a little corn to keep up the con- 
dition of the sow after the pigs are four 
weeks old. 

Feeding the Brood Sow. 

Sliould a sow be kept fat or thin or just 
in fair condition? I have one that is 
getting rather fat, I think, but she is 
healthy. Will her being fat make any 
difference in the size of her litter? 

Ans.: So long as she continues in good 
health and is making a fair growth the 
fatness will not make her less prolific, 
and she will usually produce larger litters 
and stronger pigs than if thin. This is 
especially true of young sows. 

Grain for Brood Sow. 

How much grain does a brood sow of 
two hundred or tvsro hundred and fifty 
pounds need per day? 

Ans.: It depends on the kind of grain. 
Her ration should not be wholly of corn. 
If a mixed ration, seven pounds per day 
would keep up a pregnant sow of two 
hundred and fifty pounds weight in grow- 
ing condition. 

Feed for Brood Sow. 

Will a feed of corn, ground oats and 
barley be good for the brood sow? 

Ans.: Yes, ground oats and barley made 
into a thick slop, with a little corn, would 
make very good feed for a brood sow. 
The ration could be improved, when the 
sows were not running on pasture, by 
adding a little bright clover hay. 

Changing from Corn to Oat.s. 

Will it be good to change from corn to 
oats in feeding brood sows? I have fed 
corn about eighty days since I bred them. 

Ans.: The change proposed is a good 
one. A pregnant sow should have only a 
moderate allowance of corn. 

Ground Oats for Brood Sows. 

Ts it advisable to feed ground oats to 
brood sows? 

Ans.: Yes, ground oats is good feed. It 
may be fed either as a mash or thin slop 
along with pasture and a very little corn. 

Oats for Sows. 

T%^ould it be as well to feed whole oats 
to brood sows; as ground oats? 

Ans.: Yes, whole oats gives just as good 
results and saves the labor and expense of 
grinding. 

Oats and Peas for Sovrs. 

AVhat is the matter with cfets and peas 
as a ration after farrowing? 

Ans.: Oats and peas are all right in 
localities where peas can be grown. 
Peas generally grow best after timothy. 

Flax Seed Meal for Brood Sow. 

Would flax seed meal be good feed for 
the brood sow? 



FEEDING BROOD SOWS. 



15 



Ans.: In small quantities with other 
feed it is very good as it tends to tone 
up the system and keep the bowels open. 

Feeding Flax to Sows. 

I have some flax that is not worth 
threshing. Will it do to let breeding sows 
eat it before or after being bred? 

Ansj,: Much will depend on the amount 
of flax seed in the straw as to how freely 
sows may be allowed to eat it. In any 
event, it is a question whether they 
should be allowed to eat all that they will 
take. It would 'likely seriously affect 
their appetites for taking other food. A 
limited amount will be all right. 

Feeding Horse Flesb. 

Is it well to feed dead horse carcasses 
to breeding sows? I had two horses die 
a week ago and I am feeding them to 
my hogs. They seem to be all right now. 

Ans.: There can be no reason why 
\horse flesh should hurt your sows if fed 
in moderation. It would be wise, how- 
ever, to discontinue the meat just before 
and after farrowing, as the meat, in the 
opinion of a great many, has a tendency 
to make sows eat their little ones. Bet- 
ter be on the safe side and not feed the 
meat at that time. 

Skim 31ilk for Brood Sow. 

Can you overfeed a brood sow with 
skim milk? 

Ans.: You can overfeed a brood sow on 
most anything but pasture. "When fed in 
moderate quantities, sweet skim milk is 
an ideal feed for any hog or pig at any 
age. 

Skim Milk and Middlings for Nursing 
Sows. 

Can just as good results be gotten from 
feeding brood sows skim milk and mid- 
dlings without corn? 

Ans.: No, not when they are on pasture. 
A little corn is necessary to tone up the 
system but be careful not to feed too 
much or it will upset the milk supply and 
render the pigs subject to thumps. 

Sows Refuse to Bat Middlings. 

I have two sows that farrowed in the 
middle of January. I am feeding them 
a little corn and swill made up of house 
slops, water, some bran and shorts. They 
eat the corn and drink the slop, but do 
not clean up the bran and shorts. There 
are 19 pigs with these two sows, all of 
which are doing well. Should I make 
any change in the treatment that I am 
giving them? 

Ans.: This is a common difficulty with 
feeding shorts and bran in the winter 
time, especially if the slop is made with 
cold water and fed immediately. Cold 
water does not seem to penetrate or 
soak in winter as it does in summer. 
This difficulty can be overcome in a 
measure by using hot water and leaving 



it to soak for a time. Would recommend 
no change in the treatment you are now 
giving as long as they do well and re- 
main thrifty. Give them an opportunity 
to get outdoors where they can take 
considerable exercise, as one of the most 
common difficulties experienced in raising 
winter pigs is that they are frequently 
kept confined in close quarters. This, 
with liberal feeding, often brings on 
thumps. 

Sugar Beet Pulp. 

Can sugar beet pulp be fed to old hogs 
and brood sows? If so, in what shape is 
it fed? Is it better to mix it with shorts 
and give it to them in the swill or feed 
it just alone? 

Ans.: It is all right to feed the pulp 
alone. Sugar beets when fed directly to 
swine are fed this way, and there seems 
no reason why it would be necessary to 
mix the pulp with any other kind of 
food. 

Roots. 

A great deal is said about feeding roots 
before farrowing. Is there any objection 
to feeding them all winter? 

Ans.: No, not if you have plenty of 
roots. 

Feed before Farrowing. 

What is good to feed before farrowing? 

Ans.: Oats, corn, middlings, oil meal, a 
little bran, and just before farrowing, 
about a week, cut all the corn out, which 
would consist of about one-third of the 
ration. This is done to get the animal's 
system cooled out nicely. Feed some 
laxative food, a little oil meal or roots 
for about a week. 

W'hat Feed Before Farrowing? 

How should a sDw be fed just before 
she farrows? 

Ans.: During the first two montiis no 
change need be made in her usual food. 
As her time of farrowing approaches, she 
must be kept separate from the fatten- 
ing hogs and her food should be such as 
will produce bone and muscle rather tlir^n 
fat. Bran, shorts, shipstuff, ground oats, 
and peas, with but little corn, should be 
used. Fresh green pasture is good if it is 
to be had. 

Feeding Brood Sows. 

I have a number of registered Poland- 
China sows due to farrow soon. They 
have been fed chiefly soft corn during 
the winter and have had plenty of chance 
to exercise. I am now feeding soft corn 
in the morning, and carrots, potatoes and 
corn silage for the otlier feeds at noon 
and night. They also have salt and 
ashes. Is this food as good for them as 
middlings, ground oats and bran? 

Ans.: Whether mill food should be add- 
ed to the diet now given will depend 
largely on the proportions of mangels or 



16 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE. 



roots, other than potatoes, that are being 
fed. If the supply of carrots, mangels or 
turnips is large, then with some soft 
corn and potatoes you would have a very 
good ration. If the supply of roots is 
limited, then it w^ould be a safe invest- 
ment to buy middlings, even at $14.00 a 
ton. Potatoes are excellent food for 
swine that are being fattened, but for 
brood sows they do not make a good diet 
when fed in large quantities along with 
corn. They may be fed in considerable 
quantities along with shorts. 

Feeding- Brood Sows. 

I feed some brood sows entirely on 
roots and a little chopped barley once a 
day. They keep almost too fat. Will 
that kind of feed do after they have far- 
rowed? I feed the roots raw; should 
they be cooked? 

Ans.: The feed you are giving the brood 
sows is most excellent before they far- 
row. They are not likely to get too fat 
on such a food. After farrowing the pro- 
portion of the grain ought to be increased 
and if some corn can be fed all the bet- 
ter, as there is danger of the sows get- 
ting too thin when suckling their pigs. 
The roots fed raw will answer very well. 

Feed before FarroT%-ing. 

What is the best food to give young 
sows a week or two before farrowing? 
I have been feeding slops of ground oats 
and shorts and they seem in good condi- 
tion. What kind of shelter is needed for 
sows and pigs in summer? 

Ans.: The food you are feeding your 
sows is good and may be continued, but 
feed a variety if possible. Give them 
foods that will not produce too much 
heat, such as corn or rye. In summer the 
shade of a grove or of sheds is a great 
protection for swine. 

Oil 3IeaI for Sows. 

Is there any danger in feeding oil meal 
to sows that are bred? 

Ars.: Oil meal is very good for preg- 
nant sows. One pound to six sows per 
day will be a sufficient quantity to give 
them. Mix it in middlings and feed in 
the form of a slop. Oil meal is especially 
good for breeding sows as it tends to 
keep the bowels open and prevents con- 
stipation, which is one of the worst trou- 
bles that hog men have to contend with. 
Sows that are constipated, especially 
young sows, are nervous and irritable 
during the time of farrowing and become 
so cross that they often turn on their 
young and destroy them as fast as they 
are born. For this reason it would be 
well to feed a little oil meal in the quan- 
tity above stated, especially during the 
last month before farrowing. 



Linseed Meal for Sot^s. 

My sows have nearly always been trou- 
bled with constipation just before farrow- 
ing, which I think is partially responsi- 
ble for their sometimes eating some of 
their young. Would linseed meal be 
good to feed them for this purpose? 

Ars.: Yes, linseed meal serves the dou- 
ble purpose of supplying protein and 
keeping the bowels open. It would be 
well to have a little on hand and begin 
feeding it in small quantities about a 
month before farrowing time. 

Too Much Milk. 

Just before farrowing I noticed that 
some of my sows ■were dropping milk 
from their teats. What is the cause of 
this? 

Ans.: One often notices milk dropping 
from the teats a few hours before farrow- 
ing. This is a sign that internal nourish- 
ment has been completed and that nature 
is making ready for the new order of 
things. Overfeeding or the feeding of 
constipating or heating food at this time 
is likely to, cause trouble to both the sow 
and her young. Feed lightly and re- 
member that sow's milk is much richer 
than cow's milk. 

Best Ration for Sow. 

What is a good ration to feed the sow 
after farrowing when, she should be on 
full feed, up to the time of weaning the 
pigs? 

Ans.: Middlings and succotash. Mid- 
dlings is the main part of the slop and of 
course a little corn, and the more skim 
milk the better. 

Treatment of Sow Just After Farro^inR-. 

How should a sow be fed just after 
farrowing? 

Ans: The feed at this time should be 
strengthening, but not heating, and if 
any indications of costiveness appear she 
should have -a good feed of wheat bran. 
A constant supply of salt and ashes or 
charcoal is especially needed at this time. 
Keep her quiet and do not disturb her 
unless absolutely necessary. Feed thin slop 
for 24 hours and give her a constant sup- 
ply of fresh w^ater. 

Maintaining- a Milk Supply. 

I have a sow which farrowed about 13 
days ago. I have been feeding her on 
corn and water with milk every other 
day. I notice that her milk s^eems to be 
drying up and the pigs are generally a 
pretty mean lot. What can I give the 
sow to make her produce more milk? 

Ans.: While suckling pigs, the brood 
sow should be well fed in order to main- 
tain a liberal flow of milk. No litters can 
thrive when their mothers are half starv- 
ed. Take the corn away from her al- 
together and feed her liberally on crush- 
ed oats, middlings, or wheat bran and 



FEEDING PIGS. 



17 



milk. If you have any roots on hand cut 
some of these up for her every day. In- 
crease the amount of food gradually until 
you give her all she will eat up clean. 
You have been starving- your sow so far 
as milk production is concerned. If you 
have a good field of clover, fence off 
a little section for her and turn her into 
it along with her pigs. 

Corn and Cob Ration. 

I wish to know if a ration of ground 
corn-and-cob meal is good for a sow 
suckling pigs. One of my neighbors was 
feeding- it and his little pigs began to 
get thin and die. 

Ans.: If corn-and-cob meal was made 
the only food, the pigs would probably 
not get enough milk, as such food is not 
very good for producing milk. When this 
food is given to pigs, it ought to be very 
finely ground, but shorts, ground oats or 
bran should be fed along with the corn- 
and-cob meal when milk is wanted. 

Brood Sows with Cattle. 

Will brood sows get too mucli corn fol- 
lowing cattle? 

Ans.: They will if there are only a few 
sows and a good many cattle wliere much 
corn is being fed. Many successful stock- 
men raise their hogs this way and are 
perfectly satisfied with the results. 

Hogs Rnn with Other Stock. 

Can hogs run successfully with other 
stock? 

Ans.: They can. Some feeders allow 
the brood sows to run with the cattle in 
tlie winter, while others prefer to run 
shoats with the fattening steers for fear 
the sows will get too much corn. 

Corn Fodder. 

Will cows eat corn fodder after pigs 
have picked the ears out? 

Ans.: They will not. The pigs so soil 
the fodder that the cattle seem to dislike 
it and will go hungry a long time before 
they will touch it. 

Brood Sows and Fattening Hog-s. 

Is it best to run brood sows and fatten- 
ing hogs togetlier? 

Ans.: No. Brood sows should be fed to 
make animal growth and fattening hogs 
given a ration to fatten them. This re- 
quires two distinct methods of feeding. 

Breeding Sows on Shares. 

I am offered two thoroughbred brood 
sows on shares. What percentage of the 
increase should I give, the farmer getting 
the sows back? What share at six weeks 
old and what share when the pigs weigh 
150 pounds? 

Ans.: Much depends upon the quality of 
the pigs. It would be easier to answer 
if the pigs were grades, for then one 
would only have meat prices to use as a 



basis of judgment. Some pure-breds are 
of less value than grades. On the as- 
sumption that the sows are flrst-class for 
the breed, at six weeks old the one who 
feeds the sow should be well paid by get- 
ting one pair from each litter; at 150 
pounds, by getting three of the litter. If 
the pigs were grades he should get a 
larger percentage. 

Feeding Pigs. 

A Q,uestion of Profit. 

I have a few liundred bushels of corn. 
Would it pay to buy pigs and feed it to 
them this fall ratlier than to sell the 
corn at 35 or 40 cents a bushel? 

Ans.: If you are able to buy good 
strong healthy pigs at reasonable rates 
and have a warm place to keep tliem and 
give them your personal attention it will 
pay you well, as one bushel of corn is 
calculated to produce from 10 to 12 
pounds of pork. 

Winter or Summer Feeding. 

Would it be advisable to hold corn until 
next spring and then buy pigs at $4.00 or 
$5.00 a pair to be fed for the fall market 
or would it be more profitable to feed 
them during the winter witli the idea of 
fattening them off in the spring? 

Ans.: Witli a good warm sheltered 
place for your hogs where you can keep 
them warm and dry and comfortable dur- 
ing the winter weather, where you c:<" 
give them your personal attention, it 
will probably pay to feed hogs in the 
winter. But if your conditions are such 
that your hogs would be subjected to all 
kinds of stormy and cold weather you 
would probably be the loser. It is gen- 
erally conceded, however, that summor 
feeding is more profitable than winter 
feeding, as most of the growth can be 
made very cheaply on pasture, keeping 
the corn for finishing in the fall. 

Pig Feeding Questions. 

If I can buy pigs weighing 100 pounds 
each at $3.50 per hundred would there be 
any profit in buying feed for them if I 
could buy corn for 40 cents per bushel, 
barley for 35 cents and shorts for $14.00 
per ton, and then sell them for $4.50 per 
cwt., when they weigli 200 pounds? How 
■would I feed these three feeds so as to 
balance the ration? 

Ans.: Leaving out of consideration the 
element of chance that would be taken 
of getting hog cholera by buying pigs, a 
good profit might be made, providing: 
good, thrifty pigs were purchased at $3.50 
per cwt., and that they are properly fed. 
Make corn the principal part of the ra- 
tion. Pigs that weigh 100 pounds will 
perhaps have the necesary frame for tak- 
ing oh another hundred pounds of pork 
without the help of much nitrogenous 



18 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE. 



food. With barley at 35 cents and core 
at 40 cents a bushel you could afford to 
cut out the barley entirely, in finishing:. 
If the shorts are of good quality, make 
them a part of the ration, and give both 
corn and shorts in such quantities as 
they will eat up clean. They should be 
provided with comfortable quarters and 
frequent change of bedding and should 
be given access to salt and charcoal or 
pulverized soft coal. With good feed 
thrifty pigs should put on about 50 
cents worth of pork for every 40 cents 
worth of food eaten, and this profit with 
the advance in price will make good com- 
pensation for labor and investment of 
capital. 

Rations for Pigs. 

What is considered a good ration for 
growing pig."', say two months old? Pigs 
now have rye pasture; will soon have 
I ape. Price of feed as follows: Corn 40 
cents per bushel; wheat 35 cents per 
bushel; rye 30 cents per bushel; wheat 
shorts $13,00 per ton. Which is the cheap- 
est food? 

Ans.: Of the foods named shorts is the 
cheapest when relative cost and suitabil- 
ity are taken together. If pigs of the 
age named can be fed two-thirds shorts 
and one-third ground wheat and rye, they 
ought to grow well. Of the foods named, 
corn is the dearest at the price given, 
but it is a puzzle to know where 
wheat can be obtained for 35 cents P'^r 
bushel. It may be that it is somewhat 
damaged. As the pigs grow older the 
shorts may be lessened if there would be 
any necessity for doing this, and the oth- 
er food increased. Rye, of course, may 
be used instead of wheat, but is not 
quite so good. 

Will it Pay to Sell or Feed? 

With corn selling at from 25 to 40 cents 
a bushel, would it be advisable to hold 
the corn until next spring and buy pigs 
at $4 or $5 a pair to be fed for the fall 
market? 

Ans.: If you have warm sheds for feed- 
ing where the pigs will be protected from 
cold and if you can get good healthy pigs 
at this time it may pay you to com- 
mence feeding now for next spring's mar- 
ket, but if you are so situated that your 
pigs would be subjected to cold from 
lack of proper shelter, they will make 
such small gains as to make their profit 
a question. You will have to decide thi^ 
question according to your environment. 

Small Pigs in Spring. 

If pigs are eight months old in the 
spring of the year and weigh only 100 
lbs., would it pay to buy corn and fatten 
them or would it be better to let them 
run over summer? 

Ans.: If pigs weigh only 100 lbs., at 
eight months of age they should have a 



run on clover pasture with a little grain 
feed made into slop to put them in good 
form. By running them on pasture dur- 
ing the summer tliey w^ould be in good 
shape to fatten in the fall and you would 
in all probability have the corn without 
buying it to feed them. 

Food for Pigs. 

What is a good food for small pigs 
after weaning? 

Ans.: A large portion of tlie ration 
should be milk, with shorts and corn 
meal, one-half by weight; or a slop made 
of shorts, with an addition of oil meal, 
and tlie corn shelled and soaked, witli 
clover pasture will do very wei?. 

Difference in Feeding. 

Should the pig have the same kind of 
food wliile growing, as while preparing 
him for market? 

Ans.: No. A pig should have a food 
that will stimulate growth; milk, shorts, 
oats, peas, clover, with an allowance of 
corn, would constitute a growing food. 

Creamery Milk. 

Is creamery milk fit for pigs? 

Ans.: Creamery milk is good pig feed 
if it has been pasteurized at the cream- 
ery so it would not sour. Many farmers 
prefer, however, to separate it at home 
and feed the milk direct to the pigs. The 
sooner milk can be fed after it is drawn 
from the cow the better. 

Value of Milk for Pigs. 

How many pounds of growth should 
one get from one-hundred pounds of 
milk? 

Ans.: If fed in connection with grain, 
five pounds. Or, 560 pounds of milk have 
been found equivalent to 93 pounds of a 
mixed grain ration. 

Soured Milk. 

Should skim milk be fed sweet or sour? 
Ans.: See that it is not too sour. The 
first stage of sourness is not injurious. 

Sour Milk. 

Does milk lose Its feeding value by 
souring? 

Ans.: It surely does, up to a certain 
point, and the question is important when 
and how, and to what age of animal we 
are feeding it. Young pigs will always do 
better up to twelve weeks of age, on sweet 
milk, if mixed with grain in the propor- 
tion of 30 pounds of grain to 100 pounds 
of milk. Older hogs, in the finishing pro- 
cess, may be benefited by having the milk 
clabbered or slightly sour, but milk that 
has been turned to an acid has lost its 
feeding value and becomes injurious if 
fed in large quantities. 



FEEDING PIGS. 



19 



Whey for Pigs. 

I have been trying- to fatten my pigs on 
wliey, thinking it was just as nourishing- 
as skimmed milk, but they do not seem 
to thrive. What is the trouble? 

Ans.: Pigs will not fatten on whej'. Mix 
in a little middlings or ground oats and a 
little corn meal, and then you will see 
them jump. 

Whey for Pigs. 

Is whey a fattening food for young 
pig's? 

Ans.: To make pigs grow rapidly, mix 
a little shorts in tlie whey. Be careful 
not to feed too mucli or they will scour. 
Warm separated milk is bettc than whey. 

Barley for Pigs. 

Which is the proper way to grind bar- 
ley for pigs, fine or coarse? 2. Should 
barley be fed to pigs dry or wet? 

Ans.: Barley is better ground fine than 
coarse when fed to swine. 2. It is better 
soaked than when fed dry, and in winter 
it is a still furtlier improvement to steam 
it and feed it warm. 

WTioIe Barley for Pigs. 

Should barley be fed whole to pigs? 

Ans.: No. Have it ground and mix it 
with shorts if you are going to feed it. 
Pigs soon tire of barley when fed on it 
alone. 

Ground Barley and Oats for Pigs. 

Is ground barley and oats as good as 
shorts for pigs? 

Ans.: AJways feed and make use of 
what you raise and produce; but barley 
and oats, while good, for the sow, are not 
so good for the pigs as barley and shorts 
mixed, since there is too great a propor- 
tion, of hulls, and if the oats can be ex- 
changed for shorts at the same price, the 
shorts and barley will give better results. 

Bone Meal. 

Is bone meal good for growing pigs? 
Ans.: A pinch of bone meal for a pig, 
each meal, is excellent. 

Substitute for Milk. 

What is the best food for young pigs 
when there is no milk to give them? 

Ans.: Shorts or middlings, witli one- 
third of corn meal and a little oil meal. 
Feed as thick slop. 

Soaked Shorts for Pigs. 

How long should shorts be soaked for 
pigs before feeding it? 

Ans.: Soak the shorts only from one 
feed to the next. Never alow it to stand 
in a barrel as it will ferment. 

Shorts Soaked in Milk. 

Would it be best to soak shorts In 
milk or water? 

Ans.: Soak them in water as the milk 



would sour. Never feed sour feed to pigs. 
Always add the milk as you feed; never 
let it stand in a barrel long enough to 
sour. 

Feeding Corn. 

How is the best way to start little pigs 
on corn? 

Ans.: Shell and soak the corn for little 
pigs. After you begin to feed new corn^ 
feed it on the ear. In feeding shelled corn, 
scatter it about the floor or feed yard* 
in some straw so they will have to hunt 
for the grains. This will give them ex- 
ercise which is necessary if the best re- 
sults are to be expected. 

Feeding Corn Alone. 

Why do my pigs stop growing when 
about five months old? They get all the 
corn they can eat and have all along. 

Ans.: They stop growing because corn 
does not supply growing materials in suffi- 
cient quantities. Where pigs are fed on 
corn alone they are apt to get overfat 
while young. They should have a part ra- 
tion of mill feed made into slop and a 
run of a good pasture, if large, strong 
frames are desired. 

Feeding Sow with Pigs. 

How much should I feed my sows when 
their pigs are about two weeks old? I 
don't want to make tlae pigs scour. Have 
had some trouble like this before and 
want: to guard against it. 

Ans.: After the first week there is less 
danger that the sows will be overfed than 
that they will not be fed enough. If they 
are overfed and the pigs sliow indications 
of scouring, they should have less feed and 
be given lime water to drink. If tlie pigs 
are old enougli to drink they should have 
some scalded milk in which a little wheat 
flour has been mixed. If they are too 
young to drink, they should be given four 
or five drops of paregoric. 

Starting Pigs after Weaning. 

I have a lot of little pigs that I want 
to wean in about a week. What is the 
best food to give them at this time? 

Ans.: Start the little fellows off on a 
thin slop of middlings and milk, but be 
careful not to give them enough to cause 
scours. It is always best to give them 
a little trough of their own while they are 
still nursing so that when they are wean- 
ed the shock will not be so great. 

Starting Pigs. 

How should pigs be started? 

Ans.: Before the sow farrows, feed her 
so as to keep her in condition, so there 3-s 
no danger of fever. Never start to feed 
young pigs until they commence to come 
around the trough where you feed the old 
sow. A few years ago it was considered 
best to try to encourage them to eat and 
get them started as soon as possible, btrt 



20 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE. 



it is best to leave it with the pigs. They 
will be strong and vigorous and tliey will 
get to eating too young and eat too much, 
and they will have trouble with scouring 
if you get in a hurry. Do not try to en- 
courage them to eat too young, but feed 
the breeding sow heavily with the corn 
left out or nearly so. 

Feeding Pig's before AV'eaning. 

I have two sows that farrowed about four 
weeks ago. The pigs are getting along 
very well but I want to wean them as 
soon as possible so as to have the sows 
come in with a second litter in the fall. 
How could I best go about weaning tliem 
a little earlier than is customary? 

Ans.; Young pigs can be taught to eat 
before they are weaned by having a small 
opening into an annex next to the main 
pen. Place a shallow trough in there, 
in which' is poured a thin slop of milk 
and middlings or milk and ground oats. 
As soon as they take to this readily a lit- 
tle corn meal could be added to either of 
these mixtures. In this way the pigs are 
weaned gradually and safely and much 
earlier than they would otherwise have 
been. 

Best Food for Pigs. 

What is the best food to give little pigs 
in order to make them give the best 
results? 

Ans.: To make young pigs grow thrifty. 
strong, and healthy there is nothing like 
milk, mill feed, and pasture, with a very 
little corn added. 

Corn Meal for Voung Pigs. 

Is corn meal a good food for young 
pigs? 

Ans.: No. Corn meal is too fattening 
and is a DOor feed for them. Middlings 
and milk or ground oats and milk is the 
best food for young pigs. Get them on 
clover pasture as soon as possible. 

Bran, Corn and Oats for Pigs. 

Is bran, corn, and oats a good ration? 

Ans: That makes a very good ration 
nearly balanced, the corn and oats should 
be ground and mixed with the bran. 

Bran for Pigs. 

Is bran good pig food? 

Ans.: No. Bran is liable to give little 
pigs the scours. It is too coarse and ir- 
ritates their bowels. 

Bran for Young Pigs. 

Is bran a good food for pigs just after 
they are weaned — say at the age of five 
or six w^eeks? 

Ans.: No. Bran is so harsh that it is 
apt to cause irritation of the bowels. It 
is not a safe food for pigs under three 
months old. Give them some ground oats 
and milk or middlings and milk with plen- 
ty of rich pasture if available. 



Pushing the Pigs. 

How can I make the most satisfactory 
gains with young pigs? 

Ans.: Good pasture and good water are 
necessary for health and making satisfac- 
tory growth, but in addition to tliese the 
pigs should have a liberal supply of bone 
and muscle-making food. Shorts and milk 
makethe food for growth, and an exclu- 
sive corn diet is the poorest. They will 
fatten on corn, but it will be at the ex- 
pense of health and growth and may even 
cause apoplexy or thumps if fed too much 
before they are six months old. 

Cotton Seed Meal for Pigs. 

I have an opportunity to buy a car load 
of cotton seed meal. Would it have any 
value for pigs? 

Ans.: The use of cotton seed meal for 
swine has been extensively experimented 
with in several of our stations with very 
unsatisfactory results. One peculiarity yf 
the experiment is that the pigs showed no 
derangement until they had been fed cot- 
ton seed meal for about 30 days, when over 
80% of them died. It may be stated in 
general terms that when cotton seed or 
any of its by-products are fed in reason- 
able quantities with proper complements 
of other foods, satisfactory results are se- 
cured with all farm animals except calves 
and swine. 

Cotton Seed Meal for Swine. 

What is the feeding value of cotton seed 
meal in comparison with oil meal or 
shorts for pigs? 

Ans.: Do not feed cotton seed meal to 
swine. They will appear to do pretty well 
on it for a time, but later the digestion 
becomes deranged and unsatisfactory re- 
sults generally follow. In experiments 
conducted to test its feeding value for 
swine, several animals have died -whpn it 
was fed any length of time. With other 
foods it is possible to feed a very small 
amount, but owing to the danger from 
feeding it you had better use foods you 
are sure of. 

Stock Food for Swine. 

Is there any kind of stock food that 
could be recommended for pigs to make 
them grow or fatten more quickly? 

Ans.: There are several stock foods on 
the market, which, if fed to swine for a 
limited time, will act as a tonic and will 
thereby enable them to make a. more econ- 
omical use of food. Much attention, how- 
ever, should be paid to the cost and to 
the length of time which such foods are 
fed. When these foods are used, it should 
be usually for a short time only, using 
them in the same way as tonics are used 
in the human family. 

Swine not Growing Well. 

I have one lot of swine, all over eight 



FEEDING PIGS. 



21 



months, that weigh only from 25 to 100 
pounds apiece. For the past two months 
I have fed them all the corn they will 
eat and also 25 pounds of stock food and 
other thing's that 1 thought would do 
them good. Can you give advice that 
will help me out? 

Ans. : Without knowing more about the 
condition of the swine and the way in 
which they were fed when young, it will 
not be possible to tell the trouble. One of 
two things has probably happened: either 
the pigs had the wrong kind of feed w^hen 
they were quite young, which brought 
them into a stunted condition, from which 
they have not recoveVed, or they may have 
been affected with some skin disease 
which has interfered with their growth. 
If good, liberal feeding of shorts, fed in 
the form of swill, and corn fed whole or 
ground, will not put them in good con- 
dition, the case is discouraging. A little 
oil meal added to the swill would likely 
prove a benefit. 

Heavily Fed Pigs. 

I have a young litter of pigs that is 
in a very thrifty condition. I fed corn, 
ground oats and bran. When some rf the 
smaller ones rush up to the trough, they 
have queer attacks of cramps or fits. They 
will fall over w^ithout a sound and lie 
like dead. After a few minutes they will 
get up, stiff and shivering, but nrr^ttv 
soon will eat as if nothing had happened. 

Ans.: Stop feeding corn, and to the ones 
which show the symptoms, you can give 
a tablespoonful of castor oil and feed very 
sparing for a few days. They are likely 
to die in one of the spells. Allow them 
a good roomy pen and plenty of sunshine, 
but at the same time keep them warm and 
dry. 

Fattening Yonng Pigs. 

In finishing fattening pigs five months 
old. should they be allowed to run in a 
large pasture, and if so, why? 

Ans.: Never confine young hogs unless 
It be for a short time at the finishing 
period. Every young animal must have 
exercise to keep healthy and develop a 
perfect body. 

Middlings for Small Pigs. 

Is middlings good for the small pig? 

Ans.: Middlings are not as good for the 
young pig just weaned as skim milk. 
They cannot digest the middlings as well 
until they are two or two and one-half 
months old, then the middlings should be 
added. 

Feed for Pigs. 

Which is preferable for pigs, cracked 
wheat, finely ground wheat or middlings" 

Ans.: Finely ground wheat, mixed with 
some middlings, has given the best re- 
sults for young pigs, but it should be 
soaked at least six hours and fed wet. 



Grain Fed to I^ittle Pigs. 

When should one begin to feed grain 
to little pigs? 

Ans.: Begin to feed them shelled soaked 
corn as soon as they will eat it, and also 
shorts mixed with milk. They are 
usually about four weeks old when they 
show a disposition to eat. Mix the slop 
up fresh for each meal. Don't allow it to 
stand over or it may ferment and injure 
the pigs. 

Food for Young Pigs. 

I have a lot of pigs that I am feeding 
shorts and bran. I have no milk for them 
at present. Is the feed all right, and is 
there anything I can mix with the food 
that will take the place of milk? 

Ans.: This food is all right for the 
sows, but for pigs leave the bran out; it is 
too coarse for them. If the pigs are nurs- 
ing they should be kept on the .sow until 
they are at least ten weeks old. While 
they are still nursing give them some thin 
slop made of shorts and water. Ground 
oats with the hulls sifted out will be good 
to mix with the slop. 

Feeding Pigs. 

F'ive sows farrowed this month. Would 
like a few points about feeding both the 
sows and their pigs. We have plenty of 
feed but no pasture. Which is better; 
oats, wheat and corn ground together and 
mixed with sweet skim milk, or bran, 
shorts and skim milk? 

Ans.: While the pigs are nursing, feed 
the sow oats, wheat and corn ground to- 
gether in the proportion of oats two parts, 
wheat one part and corn one part. Re- 
sults nearly as good will probably be had 
from feeding the sows shorts and bran in 
the proportions of two parts of shorts 
to one of bran, the skim milk being given 
in both cases. The former mixture has 
the advantage of improving the condition 
of the flesh. If it is evident that they are 
losing flesh the proportion of corn should 
be increased. The young pigs should get 
skim milk in a compartment by themselves 
just as soon as they will take it. Shorts 
should be added to the milk a little later. 
When eight weeks old they can be fed 
shortsi and corn in the proportion of two 
to one parts respectively, the skim milk 
being added. The feed for both sow and 
pigs should be fed in the form of slop. 

Feeding Pigs. 

I wnnt to push my pigs along as fast as 
possible and yet I am afraid to feed them 
too much for fear they will get the thumps. 
What shall I do about it? 

Ans.: Let the little pigs eat all they 
want but be sure to allow them plenty of 
room for exercise. If they show an in- 
clination to lie in their beds too much of 
the time, turn them out of the pen and 
fasten the door for awhile. 



22 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE. 



Keeping Pigs througli Winter. 

Does it pay to keep young pigs over the 
winter for another year's feeding? 

Ans.: Very often not. But if you have 
them, keep them. The best money comes 
from spring litters. 

Average Gain of Young Pig. 

How many pounds a day should a pig 
eight months old gain while being fat- 
tened? 

Ans.: If a pig gains one pound a day, 
from time of birth, he is making a paying 
gain, but this would require him to gain 
two pounds a dsy for the later period of 
his life. 

Gain of Pigs per Day. 

What should be the average gain of 
pigs per day from the date of birth to 
block? 

Ans.: If pigs make one pound of growth 
per day, from date of farrow to block, they 
will always be profitable. This would re- 
quire, for a part of the time, a higher gain 
than one pound per day, as during the 
first three months this would hardly be 
obtained. 

Mangels for S-wine. 

Would boiled mangels make a suitable 
food for young pigs? 

Ans.: Prof. Henry says: — "Because man- 
gels stand well out of the ground, these 
roots are easily cultivated and harvested. 
When boiled and mixed with meal they are 
excellent for feeding swine and young 
stock." 

Steaming Food for ST»ine. 

Is it a good idea to steam food for hogs? 
Shall I get a small boiler for that pur- 
pose? 

Ans.: In cold w^eather it is a good plan 
to steam the hog feed. The nature of the 
steamer or boiler should depend upon th.^ 
size of the herd. In some instances i^ 
heater of considerable capacity would be 
best, in others a small boiler vi'ill answe>- 
the purpose. This is an important ques- 
tion in connection w^ith the growing of 
swine and one that has a great deal both 
In favor and against it. Cooking is ex- 
pensive unless one is doing a lot of feed- 
ing. 

Feeding Rye or Barley. 

In feeding rye or barley, wouldn't it 
be well to cook it? 

Ans.: No. Grind the rye in all cases be- 
fore feeding it to pigs and simply soak it. 
Some breeders prefer to feed it warm in 
the winter, but there is no advantage in 
cooking it, unless the pigs like it better 
that way. Sometimes in warming it, it 
gets up to the boiling point, and that prac- 
tically cooks it. 

Cooking Grain. 

Does cooking the whole grain make it 
lose any of its feeding value? 



Ans.: The presumption is that the protein 
part of the food partakes very much of 
the character of the boiled egg that is 
boiled excessively — it is not so digestible. 
Then, in cooking you dilute the food too 
much; there is too much water contained 
in it, in connection with the dry matter. 

Cooking the Feed. 

Is it advisable to cook food for swine? 

Ans.: No, nothing but potatoes. If any 
one has a large quantity of potatoes in 
the fall and wants to feed them, they are 
rendered more palatable by cooking, but 
it would be scarcely practicable to cook 
all of their food except in cases where 
sows are sick just before or after farrow- 
ing. 

Cooking and Grinding Hog Food. 

As I am new to the hog business I 
would like to know something about cook- 
ing and grinding feed for hogs, that is, 
whether or not it would be profitable. 
Some of my neighbors hold that it is, 
while others claim that this work is un- 
necessary. 

Ans.: The question of cooking and grind- 
ing hog food has many advocates on both 
sides, but from all the information that 
can be gathered from reliable sources the 
predominance of evidence is in favor of 
feeding grain whole and uncooked. There 
are times vs^hen cooking or grinding or 
both, will pay for the extra trouble. 
There are thousands of instances where 
hogs are given whole uncooked grain and 
are actually making better gains than 
others that are getting cooked grain, 
either ground or whole, so that it can 
hardly be considered wise to advocate 
either cooking or grinding except in cases 
of sickness or for sows just after farrow- 
ing. 

Grinding Hog Food. 

Will it pay to grind hog food? 

Ans.: If corn is to be used it will not 
pay. Even old corn is better when soaked 
in water than when fed ground. Oats and 
barley, however, should be ground as fine 
as possible and it is preferable to feed 
them both in the form of a thick slop. 

Ground Feed for Small Pigs. 

For small pigs w^ould it he advisable 
to feed ground feed raw or scalded? 

Ans.: It makes no difference if it is soak- 
ed in the summer time. In winter some 
feeders use warm water for soaking and 
claim better results from doing so. 

Grinding Corn for Hog.s. 

Will hogs do as well when the corn is 
ground as when it is fed whole? 

Ans.: Under ordinary conditions let the 
hogs do the grinding. If the corn is hard 
it may be soaked for about twelve hours 
before it is fed. 



PASTURES FOR SWINE. 



23 



Fresh Water. 

Is it necessary to give hogs fresh 
water if they have plenty of slop? 

Ans. : It is a common error with many 
that slop food will answer for both food 
and drink. An observant feeder will no- 
tice that when feeding slops, such as a 
swill barrel generally contains from a 
kitchen, mainly water and pieces of vege- 
tables, that grain is added to this and the 
troughs are filled with the watery slush. 
He then observes that the pig or hog will 
dive for the solids, but in order to satisfy 
his want is obliged to swallow more of 
the liquid than needed, proving only a 
disturbing element to healthy digestion. 
But when slop is fed at the right con- 
sistency, as a pudding that will readily 
run ovit of a pail, and eaten clean, the hog 
will want water between meals, on pas- 
ture or in the pen. 

I.S Charcoal Good for Hogs? 

My hogs seem to be troubled with a 
sour stomach and my neighbors liave ad- 
vised giving them charcoal. Will this do 
any good? 

Ans.: It is generally accepted as true 
that there is not a great deal of difference 
between the stomach of a hog and that of 
a man. At any rate, charcoal is found to 
be useful in assisting the work of both. 



Soaked Corn. 

Have experiments in feeding soaked 
corn shown anything? 

Ans: Experiments in Iowa and Kansas 
with soaked corn showed that the soaking 
was about equal to grinding and much 
cheaper. 

Soaking: Shelled Corn. 

How long should one soak shelled corn 
in warm weather? 

Ans.: Soak it until it is soft; twelve to 
twenty-four hours. Longer than that 
would start it to ferment and make it unfit 
for food. 

Swill in the Winter. 

How could swill be kept from freezing 
in the winter? 

Ans.: Only mix it as yjDu feed it and 
only feed what they will eat up clean. 
This is a good plan to follow both summer 
and winter. 

Soapy Water for Pigs. 

Is soapy dish water injurious to pigs? 

Ans.: A large quantity of soapy dish 
water injures the glands of the bowels 
and sometimes causes death. You had bet- 
ter not risk using it. There is no food 
value in soap and the water is better to 
drink without it. 



Pastures For Swine. 



Hog Culture Without Pasture. 

Could hog culture be made profitable 
without pasture? 

Ans.: No, not on a large scale for a. 
succession of years. 

Alfalfa for Hogs. 

Is alfalfa good pasture for hogs? 

Ans.: It is the best pasture that hogs 
can have where it can be successfully 
grown. 

Pastured Hogs Injure Alfalfa. 

Does it injure alfalfa to pasture hogs 
on it? 

Ans.: It injures it to pasture it too 
closely. The right way to pasture alfalfa 
is to have your pasture large and then 
run the mower over it occasionally to cut 
back those patches that the hogs do not 
feed off so they may come up green and 
tender. 

Alfalfa Hog Pasture. 

Is alfalfa as good for pasturing hogs as 
clover? Will it make a more permanent 
pasture than clover? 

Ans.: Alfalfa will make as good pasture 
for swine as clover, and it will last a 



good deal longer in localities where it will 
grow well. 

Artichokes for Swine. 

What is there in favor of artichokes for 
swine? 

Ans.: For fall and early spring there is 
no better crop than artichokes, which give 
a rich, fresh feed just at the time when 
grasses and clovers are at their poorest. 
The crop is easily grown and will make 
a volunteer growth from the scattering 
tubers in the ground. Of course, this crop 
cannot be cultivated, and will be more or 
less choaked by weeds or dwarfed by hard 
ground. It will pay well to plow and re- 
plant the crop each season, even though 
planted on the same ground. 

Artichoke for Swine. 

Is the artichoke a profitable root crop 
for hog pasture? 2. If so, what kind of 
soil would it require? .3. When is the best 
time to plant? 4. Where can seed be 
procured? 

Ans.: The Artichoke makes excellent 
hog pasture for fall and spring in locali- 
ties favorable to its growth. 2. Like the 
potato, it prefers a black loam vegetable 



24 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE. 



soil, but will grow in good shape on vol- 
canic ash soils which characterize many 
of the mountain valleys in the west. 3. 
The tubers may be planted in the fall or 
spring, but preferably early in the spring. 
4. Seed can be procured from any local 
seedman. 

Soil for Artichokes. 

What kind of soil is best suited for the 
growing of artichokes? 

Ans.: The best soil for the crop is simi- 
lar to that which is best for Irish potatoes. 
It should be rich, mellow and well drained. 
On dry, hard clay, the yield is always 
small. 

Yield of Artichokes Per Acre. 

I am thinking of planting artichokes 
for my hogs. How much could I expect 
them to yield per acre? 

Ans.: The yield is variable from 400 to 
800 bushels per acre. Its feeding value 
is equal in value to that of any other root 
crop. 

The Be.st Pasture. 

What is a good pasture for hogs? 

Ans.: Where alfalfa does not grow there 
is perhaps nothing better than a clover 
pasture. June and Mammoth mixed are 
generally preferred and make a splendid 
pasture. 

Clover Pasture. 

I have a piece of land that I wish to get 
in clover for hog pasture. Clover does 
well here. The piece contains about five 
acres and is covered with brush with a 
few scattering- trees. Wild peas grow 
where the soil is burned over in the 
spring. I intended to clear it off this fall 
cutting the stumps as low as possible and 
also the brush. I will burn it off in the 
spring. Can I get a good catch of clover 
by disking without plowing? I have an- 
other lot containing two acres which I 
intend to sow to peas and barley. Will 
it do to let the hogs run on the clover 
until July and then turn them on lot num- 
ber two? 

Ans.: A better stand of clover will be 
obtained by simply disking the land refer- 
red to than if it were plowed. If it could 
have been burned off in the fall the clover 
could have been sown earlier. Get it in 
as early as possible. There would be no 
harm in sowing a little barley or oats 
along with the clover. It would make 
swine pasture before the clover would be 
ready. The swine could be turned in to 
graze as soon as the oats or barley was 
high enough to furnish them with food. 
It would do very well to take them from 
this to the field sown to peas and barley. 

Grain Peed for Pastured Hogs. 

Does it pay to feed grain to hogs on 
pasture? 

Ans.: Most decidedly. Hogs should have 
a little grain twice a day while on pasture 



no matter how rank it may be. Not much, 
but regularly. 

Clover Fed Hogs. 

Will hogs do well on clover alone, or 
should grain be added? 

Ans.: It is an advantage to feed grain 
with clover daily at regular intervals, 
though in much smaller amounts than 
would be given if the hogs were confined 
in pens and small yards. 

Clover and Corn for Pasture. 

What time should I sow clover with corn 
when it is intended for a hog pasture? 

Ans.: Not later than the 25th of June. 
Some weeds will come up in the corn but 
they will serve as a protection to the 
young clover plants during the winter. 
They will catch and retain the snow. 

Hogs in Polk County, Minnesota. 

Can hogs be successfully raised in Polk 
County, Minnesota? 

Ans.: Hogs can be successfully raised in 
any part of Minnesota if they are supplied 
with an abundance of good rich pasture. 
It is j'-et an experiment as to whether al- 
falfa will grow in all sections of Polk 
County, although good results have been 
obtained by several who have tried it 
there. Clover generally makes a good 
growth in the northern part of the state 
and it should serve your purpose well even 
if you are unable to grow alfalfa. 

White Clover for Pasture. 

Will white clover make as good pasture 
for hogs as the red clover does? 

Ans.: White clover is not as good as the 
medium red for hog pasture. 

White Clover and Blue Grass for Pasture. 

Will white clover and blue grass make 
a good pasture for hogs and how should 
I sow it? 

Ans.: They make very fair pasture, but 
not as good as medium red clover. Sow 
with grain the same as other tame grasses 
if the ground is not so rich that the small 
grain will lodge and smother out the grass; 
if so, sow among the standing corn 
about June 15th, and cultivate once lightly 
to cover seed. 

Substitute for Clover Pasture. 

What is the best substitute for clover 
pasture for hogs? 

Ans.: Austrian brome grass has been 
found, by many farmers of Southwestern 
Minnesota to be eaten with a relish and to 
be preferred to clover; but this should not 
deter anyone from giving clover a fair 
trial. It would be worth a- trial to turn 
down a crop of the above grass and suc- 
ceed it with the fall-sown rye, and seed 
this to clover upon the rye the spring fol- 
lowing. 



PASTURES FOR SWINE. 



25 



Grass for Swioe. 

Would Bromus Inermis succeed on soil 
that held surface water late in the spring, 
to be used as hog pasture? 2. Would 
Bromus Inermis or Timothy be liable 
to catch if sown with flax on a sod pasture 
that was broken up and sown in the 
spring-; or would it be preferable to sow 
it the following- year with other grain? 

Ans. : Much would depend on the depth 
of the surface water. This grass has been 
known to be submerged in the spring for 
a couple of weeks at a time without any 
apparent harm. This was before the sea- 
son of active growth commenced, but it is 
probable that deep water covering tho 
grass for any considerable length of time 
would harm it. 2. If the season was 
moist, either Bromus or Timothy would be' 
likely to make a stand with flax; if dry, 
both would be pretty certain to fail, for 
the reason, first, that flax is usually sown 
a little late, and second, such a preparation 
is not really a good one to secure a stand 
of grass. It would be more certain with 
both kinds of grasses to sow with the crop 
that followed the flax. It would also be 
well to take some other crop after the 
flax, to get the full benefit from the de- 
caying sod. 

The Permanent Hog Pasture. 

I want to kno-w- something about per- 
manent hog pasture and what kind of 
grass to sow? 

Ans.: Sow- blue grass, timothy, alsiko 
and June clover. In the course of a few 
years it will run largely to blue grass, 
which is tlie best grass for a permanent 
pasture, as it is the first to start in the 
spring and hold.s out green the latest in 
the autumn. 

Permanent Serine Pasture. 

I have broken up a piece of land which 
is rather low. It was broken late last 
August. The soil is black and sandy but 
very fertile. I w^ant it for hog pasture. 
We thought to sow alfalfa. Would thnt 
be right? How and when should it V)o 
sown? How shall we manage the ground 
before sowing? Should anything be sown 
on the sod this fall? If so, what? We 
want a permanent hog pasture. How shall 
we manage to obtain the best results? 

Ans.: If the drainage of the land is 
enough to admit of the roots of alfalfa 
going down several feet before reaching 
the water table, then alfalfa would likely 
grow well on such soil. In the climate of 
Mt. Vernon. S. D., it would not likely stand 
the winter ifi sown in the fall. It is all 
right plowing the ground early. In the 
spring it should be well stirred and sown 
with alfalfa seed about the end of the 
wheat sowing season. Sow fifteen or 
twenty pounds of seed to the acre and 
cover with the harrow. It may be neces- 
sary to use the mower on the crop once 



or twice the same season to keep down 
weeds. 

Permanent Pasture. 

Can I keep a permanent pasture for my 
hogs without their rooting it up? 

Ans.: Yes. Hogs that have a good range 
are not liable to root if they have the 
proper feed and plenty of wood ashes and 
salt. 

Continuous Pasture. 

I mean to divide a piece of ground into 
three or four parts for liog pasture. I 
have a piece of timothy for early pasture 
which I will call pasture No. 1. What 
shall I sow on plots Nos. 2, 3, and 4 for 
midsummer and fall pastures? Is rape a 
good liog pasture and will it grow with 
speltz and fodder corn? If so, how should 
I sow it" 

Ans.: On plot No. 2 sow oats and barley 
as soon as the ground is ready. On plot 
No. 3 sow Dwarf Essex rape early; on plot 
No. 4 sow sorghum after the corn is plant- 
ed, and on No. 2 sow rape after the oats 
and barley are eaten. This will make 
pasture through all the summer. The rape 
does best when sown, by itself, but it may 
be sown with speltz and pastured where 
the speltz is harvested. 

Early Hog Pasture. 

Can a field, plowed last fall, be made 
for a hog pasture this spring or early 
summer? 

Ans.: A portion of it may be seeded to 
winter rye early, and seeded with clover. 
The clover may be a success or failure and 
the seed may be lost. Another portion of 
the field should be seeded to barley and 
oats mixed, and another portion to Dwarf 
Essex rape, which will give satisfaction 
nearly through the season. If the clover 
should do well with the first two plots, it 
will make a good pasture the next season. 

Time to Sov»- Rape. 

When should I sow rape for hogs? 

Ans.: Rape may be sown for hog pasture 
,'iny time in the spring after the gi ouii 1 
is dry enough to sow, but any time befriro 
July will do if the season isn't too dry. 
It sliould be fit to pasture seven week-^ 
after sowing. If the plants are eaten off 
short while young they are apt to be in- 
jured, otlierwise they will sprout up again 
vigorously. 

SoTV'ing Rape. 

How early in the spring is it safe to 
sow Dwarf Essex Rape for hog pasture, 
and hoTv much seed to the acre? 

Ans.: As soon as the ground is nearly 
dry in the spring it is safe, but a hard 
frost will kill it when it is young. About 
the time spring wheat sowing is through 
in an ordinary year is a safe time to sow 
rape. Many farmers who sow rape in 
their grain, mix tlie seed and sow it along 
at the same time. 



26 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE 



Rape for Swine. 

When is the best time to sow rape for 
swine; how much to the acre should be 
sown and where can I get it? 

Ans.: Rape seed can be sown for swine 
any time from the opening of spring until 
the middle of July. Sow about five pounds 
of seed to the acre. The seed can be 
procured from any good seedsman. The 
rape plant is one of the best for swine 
that can be grown in this Northwestern 
country. Sow only the Dwarf Essex vari- 
ety. 

Hogs on Rape. 

Right after a rain, is there any danger 
from turning hogs on rape? 

Ans.: There is no danger from bloat in 
hogs pasturing on rape, but it is said to 
cause sores behind the ears if the pigs are 
kept in rape that is wet most of the time. 

Rape Pasture Growing too Fast. 

My hogs are out on rape, but it is grow- 
ing a great deal faster than they can eat 
it off. What can I do about it? I do not 
care to purchase any more hogs at this 
time. 

Ans.: If the rape pasture gets the start 
of the hogs and they refuse to eat it, cut 
off the tops with the mowing machine and 
let it make a fresh, succulent growth. 

Hogs Won't Eat Rape. 

How can I get hogs to eat rape? I 
read so much about it being such good 
feed for them that I sowed a piece early 
in the spring. It came up nicely and had 
quite a start when a hard frost in May 
froze nearly all of it out. There was 
some left under the protection of trees 
and a little left in patches over the field. 
I turned the hogs into it after it had got- 
ten fair size, but they paid no attention 
to it. 

Ans.: Your hogs had never eaten rape 
before. Keep them on the rape and they 
will soon get extremely fond of it. Pigs 
will leave grain to eat nice crisp rape 
when they get used to it. Don't be dis- 
couraged about the rape freezing. That 
will probably not occur again in ten years. 

Pasture for Pigs. 

What makes the best hog pasture for use 
the first season? 

Ans.: Barley and Dwarf Essex rape sow- 
ed at the rate of one bushel of barley 
with five pounds of rape seed to the acre. 

Temporary Pasture. 

I have a few hogs but have no pasture 
for them. What would give the best 
results? 

Ans.: Sow rape seed for them at the 
rate of five pounds of seed per acre, and 
sow again every six weeks. You will 
then have a good pasture for your pigs 
all summer. Rape will furnish pasture in 
about 60 or 75 days after sowing. 



Rape and Oats for Pasture. 

Is rape so\vn in pasture with oats good 
for young pigs, also for old ones? 

Ans.: Rape is excellent for swine of all 
ages. If it is cropped closely while young, 
however, the growth will not be as sturdy 
as if it were allowed to get larger before 
pasturing. For this reason a good many 
favor sowing the rape alone for hog pas- 
ture. 

Oats and Rape. 

I have a hog pasture of about two 
acres (sandy soil) which I w^ish to sow in 
rape this spring. How would it do to 
sow about one bushel of oats with the 
rape seed for the pigs to work on till 
the rape is large enough? 2nd. In case 
the rape was growing too fast for the 
pigs, would it do to feed it off with cattle? 

Ans.: Rape should grow well on such 
a soil if it is rich, but the plan proposed 
would not work well, as to keep the oats 
down the crop would have to be pastured 
early. This vi'ould cause the rape to be 
cropped down when young. When this is 
cropped young, it does not grow up again 
with such power. A better plan would be 
to sow clover with the rape to provide 
pasture later. 2. It would answer all 
right to feed the rape down with cattle. 
It should be remembered that tl^e highest 
pasture value from rape Is obtained from 
it when it is pretty well grown. 

Barley and Rape in Place of Clover. 

What can be sown to take the place of 
clover that will make a pasture soon after 
sown? 

Ans.: Barley and Dwarf Essex rap? 
make very good pasture. Sow about a 
bushel of barley and five pounds of rape 
seed to the acre and turn on as soon as 
it is four or five inches high. 

Hog Pasture. 

What should I sow for early hog pasture 
on land broken late last fall? It was 
brush land with such trees as oak, willow, 
hazel and black-elder grow^ing on it. 

Ans.: Barley and oats will make good 
early swine pasture on this land. Dwarf 
Essex w^ill also make good pasture, sotvii 
a little later. Canada field peas would fur- 
nish good pasture, but would not be ready 
before the middle of June or even later. 
If good red clover is sown along witli 
the barley and oats, and sown pret- 
ty thickly, it will probably furnish pas- 
ture late in the season after the barley and 
oat pasture is gone. 

Pasture of Barley and Oats. 

When should hogs be turned on barley 
and oats for pasture? 

Ans.: As soon as there is growth enough 
to cover the ground. 

(Quantity of Oats and Vetch for Pasture. 

I want to sow oats and vetch for a hog 



PASTURES FOR SWINE. 



27 



pasture. How much of each of these seeds 
should I sow to the acre? 

Ans. One bushel of the oats and one 
peck of vetch seed is sufficient to seed 
an acre. 

Vetch on Sandy Soil. 

Will vetch make good hog pasture on 
very sandy soil? 

Ans.: Vetcli is not generally satisfactory 
on sandy ground unless the soil is first 
inoculated with suitable bacteria. A good, 
rich sandy loam is well suited to the 
growth of vetch. This crop usually grows 
very well after a crop of clover or peas. 

Timothy Pasture. 

How does an acre of timothy pasture 
compare in value with an acre of clover 
for hogs? 

Ans.: It does not compare at all. Clo- 
ver is generally considered the best crop 
to grow for hog pasture wherever it can 
be successfully raised, provided alfalfa 
will not grow there. 

Pasture for Swine. 

I have a small piece of ground to seed 
down to clover this spring for hog pasture, 
expecting to run a central fence to divide 
the ground in two. Would like to know 
what is best to sow with clover to furnish 
better food for this season that will not 
hurt the catch of clover or the growth of 
the same? 

Ans.: Sow barley at the same time as 
the clover on half of the ground and 
Dwarf Essex rape on the other half. Do 
not sow less than two bushels of barley 
per acre, and begin pasturing as soon as 
food is plentiful. Sow five pounds of rape 
seed. By the time the barley is eaten 
down the rape will be ready. 

Hog Pasture, 

What mixture of seed will make good 
hog pasture? 

Ans.: To make good hog pasture, you 
may sow (1) oats and barley; (2) rape; 
(3) peas; (4) sweet corn; (5) w^inter rye; 
the last being for late fall and early 
spring pasture. Sow the barley and oats 
at the rate of about two bushels of barley, 
and one bushel of oats per acre. The sweet 
corn may be planted as corn is usually 
planted for growing grain. The rye should 
be sown in August or September. 

Hog Pasture. 

I have five acres that I would like to 
put in pasture for hogs. What shall I sow 
and how much per acre? It is a clay soil 
w^ith stones in it. How many hogs can I 
keep to the acre and can I put them on 
the pasture this summer? 

Ans.: A mixture of about six quarts of 
red clover, five pounds of rape and about 
two bushels of oats to the acre will make 
excellent hog pasture. Divide the lot in 
two, alternating the pasturing of the same 
as you see it is necessary. Rape alone 



makes a very good pasture and if you 
use it, turn your hogs in when it is six 
inches high. Do not be surprised if at first 
they do not eat it. Starve them until they 
do, and when they become accustomed to 
eating it they will enjoy it and thrive 
satisfactorily. Ten or twelve hogs to the 
acre will be about as many as you can 
profitably afford if the pasture is in good 
condition. If you have only the breeding 
stock, one sow with her pigs will be 
enough to the acre. 

Pig Pasture. 

At what age should pigs be put into 
pasture? How long and what kind of 
pasture? 

Ans.: You did not say to what extent 
you have pasture for your hogs, but there 
is no reason why your pigs should not en- 
ter upon pasture as soon as they are able 
to run with the sow. Let the pigs run 
upon a clover pasture. You will also find 
barley mixed with winter rye a satisfac- 
tory pasture. You will have healthier and 
better hogs if they pasture. Aim to let 
your hogs run in pasture in May when the 
clover has fair hold of the field, and when 
they are once upon the pasture feed twice 
a day. 

Pasture for Swine. 

I vt'ant a plan for five acres of hog pas- 
ture suitable for the country about Ross, 
N. D., remembering, first, that this is a 
new country; second, that we are subject 
to early frosts — as early as August 7th; 
third, the soil is black loam; fourth, we are 
inexperienced as to raising peas or rape 
and cannot yet raise clover. 

Ans.: Under the conditions named it 
would be best to sow but two crops. The 
first would be barley and oats, the mixture 
consisting chiefly of barley, which should 
be sown as soon as it is safe, because of 
early frosts. Then about the same time, 
sow Dwarf Essex rape, at the rate of say 
five pounds of the seed per acre. Neither 
orop will furnish swine pasture earlier than 
June 1st. After a lapse of three or four 
weeks, sow another piece of rape. This 
food should carry the swine on until the 
end of September. The frost should not 
be severe enough to hurt the rape before 
that date even in your locality. To pro- 
vide pasture for the next year, sow vs^inter 
rye. This should be put in about the end 
of August. Then the following spring, sow 
barley and oats and rape, as described 
above. 

Dividing Hog Pastures. 

I have ten acres to sow for hog pasture. 
Shall I give them the run of the whole lot 
at once or divide it up into lots? 

Ans.: Hogs are wasteful grazers when 
turned into rank pastvire, and a great sav- 
ing of feed can be secured by growing 
different grazing crops in long narrow 



28 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE. 



fields, which may be divided into sections 
by movable transverse fences to allow 
for frequent changes of pasture. 

Pasture for Eig-kt Hogs. 

"WTiat would you advise me to sow for 
pasture to carry eight hogs through the 
summer? 

Ans. : Sow barley and oats together to 
provide early pasture and peas separately 
for summer pasture. To carry eight hogs 
from June 1st to August 15th, plant % 
acre of barley and oats and M acre of the 
peas. Winter rye should be sown the 
previous autumn. For late pasture Dwarf 
Essex rape can be sown any time within 
60 or 75 days of the time wanted. 

Pasture for Ten Hogs. 

How much pasture would I need for 
ten hogs? 

Ans.: By making frequent changes, one 
acre will yield an abundant grazing for at 
least ten full grown hogs or for a corres- 
pondingly large number of younger ani- 
mals. It is always well to grow a variety 
of grazing crops, planted so as to ripen in 
succession. The greater tlie variety the 
better will be the results. 

Pasture for 100 Swine. 

How many acres of pasture would 100 
spring pigs need, some grain being fed? 

Ans.: This question is difficult to answer, 
owing to the great difference of soil and 
soil capabilities. Ten acres, divided into 
say two or three lots, should carry 100 
pigs from spring until early autumn. If 
all were in one lot it would take consider- 
ably more. 

Pasture and Swine. 

Is it necessary to liave pasture in order 
to raise hogs successfully? 
Ans.: A good pasture is as necessary for 



profitable hog raising as for the growing 
of beef. No one should attempt to grow 
pork for market without providing at 
least one field where the hogs can have 
abundant exercise, and can find enough 
roots and herbage to keep them in health. 

Pasture Running Short. 

I have quite a large number of hogs and 
find tliat my pasture is going to run short. 
It would not pay me to sell the hogs now. 
What shall I feed them? I have good 
fields of clover and alfalfa but want to 
save them if possible for feeding my 
stock in the winter. 

Ans.: Haul a big load of either clover 
or alfalfa hay into the hog lot and dump 
it in a sheltered corner. The hogs will 
soon find and appreciate it. In this man- 
ner you may be able to tide over until 
time to fatten them in the fall. 

Turning Hogs in Diseased Pasture, 

Is there any danger from putting hogs 
in the same pen and pasture next spring 
where sick hogs have been this fall? 

Ans.: Tlie sickness that affected the hogs 
is not stated, but presumably it was chol- 
era. If no dead hogs or parts of such 
were near there would probably be no 
danger from putting hogs in the same 
quarters in the spring, but to make doubly 
sure, it will be a good plan to draw away 
all the manure from pens, scraping it up 
clean, and then using lime freely as a dis- 
infectant over the yards and on the floor 
of tlie pens. This done, supply the place 
plentifully with bedding. The manure 
drawn away should be plowed under in a 
field to which the hogs have no access in 
the early part of the season. If the pens 
are thoroughly sprayed with some good 
coal tar preparation there should then be 
little danger on account of any previous 
disease. 



Swine Diseases. 



Abortion. 

Please tell me the cause of sows far- 
rowing two weeks before their time. I 
had eleven sows and eight farrowed before 
their time. Three raised fifteen pigs. The 
sows had a large place to run in with no 
cattle or horses near them and a large 
place to sleep and vve fed them corn and 
oats. 

Ans.: The only way to account for this 
is that the abortion nriight have been 
caused by their eating some ergotized 
grain. This will cause the trouble. It 
doesn't look as though the trouble was 
caused from any injury, as it is liardly 
likely they would all be injured the same 
way. If the male is sound and vigorous 



there seems to be no other way to account 
for it except in the feed. 

Abscess Forming. 

One of our hogs has been sick for the 
past few days. His left jaw is swollen 
and water runs from his mouth. He will 
eat swill, but cannot open his mouth for 
corn. 

Ans.: There is probably an abscess form- 
ing in some portion of the swollen jaw, 
and the animal will get no relief until it 
breaks and discharges. There is very 
little to do. Foment the swollen jaw with 
hot water twice a day. 

Probably an Abscess. 

I have a sow with a sore on her cheek. 



SWINE DISEASES. 



29 



It is spreading- now in spots. Is swollen 
some. Does not seem to cause pain. 

Ans. : Secure the sow and make an ex- 
amination of the sore and see if there is 
an abscess, and if there is, open it. Ap- 
ply to the sore the following twice a day: 
Bichloride of mercury one dram mixed 
with four ounces of water. 

Acid Stomach. 

What causes hog-s to grind and grit 
their teeth? 

Ans.: Acidity of the stomach usually. 
Feed more charcoal and stop feeding milk 
for awhile and you will find they will 
-stop gritting their teeth. 

Anthrax. 

Can you tell me what is the matter with 
mj'^ pigs? Their ears turn purple and tlieir 
feet all swell up and they seem to oe 
weak in their backs so they can't walk. 
In a few days they Jie. They are about 
four weeks old. 

Ans.: Probably marshy pasture. Died 
of Anthrax. 

Apoplexy. 

I have a sow with six young pigs, three 
weeks old. The sow is in fine condition. 
The little pigs are growing fast and are 
very fat. Seem to be in t;ood health one 
minute and dead the next time I look at 
them. 

Ans.: It -looks very mucli like apoplexy. 
Cliange the mother's feed and give her 
more roots, such as cooked potatoes or 
turnips. A complete change of feed for 
the mother is the only thing- to do. 

The Black Tooth Myth. 

One of my neighbors is having bad 
luck with young pigs. They seem tc 
thrive up to about six weeks old and 
then sicken and die. I examind one and 
found, as I believe, a well defined r^nse 
of black tooth. Is there any scientific 
basis for the black tooth .-^'ckness? 

Ans.: Black tooth disease is one of the 
cast-off theories that were relegated to the 
rear at the same time that hollow horn 
and a few other diseases were discarded. 
There may be a disease among swine 
which would cause the teeth to discolor 
but that would only be the effect, not the 
cause. You will gain nothing- by working 
on the effect without first removing the 
cause. Scientific research proves this to 
be a fact. 

Black Teeth not the Cause., 

My young pigs sickened and died sud- 
denly. On examination I found their teeth 
had turned black. 

Ans.: The teeth did not cause the pig's 
death. There was something wrong with 
the mother's milk which caused the trou- 
ble. If you will give your sows before 
farrowing plenty of cooked roots, turnips 
or potatoes, and continue this feed for 
some time afterwards, you should not be 
troubled in this any more. Corn meal or 



pea meal or oatmeal is very good for the 
sows at this time. 

Black Tooth. 

Is black tooth in any way connected 
with blind staggers? 

Ans.: No, they are not connected. When 
you are feeding a great deal of acidulated 
food it will often cause black teeth. The 
best way is to pick out the black teeth 
with a pair of pincers. 

Blind Staggers. 

What is blind staggers, and what causes 
it? 

Ans.: Blind staggers comes from one of 
the great errors of feeding. It is not her- 
editary in swine. There are men who feed 
swine regardless of their powers of di- 
gestion and assimilation, and they gorge 
their animals with one kind of food. Sup- 
pose you feed your hogs on whey, and 
whey alone, and do not mix some oil meal 
and shorts with the whey, you will prob- 
ably find you have blind staggers among 
your animals. When the digestive organs 
become so disturbed that constipation has 
taken place and digestion has ceased, in- 
flammation of the brain sets in. Then 
the next step is blind staggers. The hog 
has a severe pain in its forehead, and it 
commences to run around in a circle, and 
is almost blind. The only remedy is to 
give the animal a physic. Give it some 
common clearing medicine to remove the 
constipation. 

Blood Disease. 

One of my sows farrowed three weeks 
ago. The pigs all died in twenty-four 
hours. A week ago I noticed bristle--! 
coming out. She is nearly bare now and 
the skin is of a reddish color, rough, dry, 
and pimply. She seems to feel all right 
and has a good appetite. I am feeding new 
corn and boiled potatoes in the swill. 

Ans.: Prom the symptoms given, it may 
be hog cholera, although there are blood 
diseases that act very similarly. Give her 
a heaping teaspoonful of sulphate of soda 
in feed, three times a day. Use plenty of 
some good disinfectant where the animal 
lies and change the bedding every day. 

Blood Di.sease. 

My pigs were farrowed about the last 
of April. They did well until about six 
■weeks old then some of them began to 
get poor. They would scratch themselves 
and scour some. They seem to want to 
eat. but do not eat much. They have 
black teeth. I have some of them shut 
up by themselves; others are getting bet- 
ter. Can't find any lice on them. 

Ans.: Your pigs are troubled with a blood 
disease — probably from something they 
have eaten. You had better destroy thf^ 
very bad cases and try to save the balance. 
Give each pig a tablespoonful of castor oil 
and it also will be well to dip the pigs in 
some disinfectant. Use disinfectants free- 



30 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE. 



ly in the pens and especially where the 
sound pigs sleep. 

Blood Poison. 

My neighbor has a lot of three-months- 
old pig-s which have a peculiar ailment. 
First, the skin cracks, then hair and skin 
both peel ofi, leaving- hide underneath 
dry and raspy; the tails also rot off and 
ears dry up to a shell. The pigs have a 
nice clean place to sleep and a pasture to 
run in, with oats six inches tall. How 
can the disease be checked? 

Ans.: The disease is due to some poison 
acting on the nerves and blood vessels, de- 
ranging the action of both. Ergotized 
grain will produce the very effect men- 
tioned. The matter should be looked into 
very carefully by competent authorities 
and the cause removed. You may have 
your local board of health call in the state 
live stock sanitary board to their aid, and 
they will send their veterinary surgeon 
to your assistance at once. 

Brain Disease. 

I have two pigs that lean their heads to 
one side and stagger around squealing. 
They have had plenty of exercise, and 
have been fed corn, skim milk and ground 
food. 

Ans.: Your pigs are suffering from a 
brain disease, and they might as well be 
destroyed, as they will not recover. You 
had better make an entire change of feed 
with the balance to try and prevent oth- 
ers from contracting the disease. 

Ineiiraljle Brain Trouble. 

I have a pig- that keeps running in a 
circle all day, even in the smallest pen, 
sometimes runs backwards and staggers, 
eats as much as two other hogs and stilT 
is poor. She always looks up with one eye 
holding head sideways, and is very rest- 
less. Is there any cure for her, and if not, 
is the meat good to use? 

Ans.: Your pig is suffering from an In- 
curable brain disease, and it would be an 
act of mercy to destroy it. There is noth- 
ing wrong- with the meat if the sow is in 
good condition. 

Brain Trouble. 

A short time ago I bought two six- 
weeks-old pigs. Lately one of them began 
to have queer spells. When I fed them he 
vs^ould take a swallow or two and then 
throw himself back and begin to breathe 
hard, sometimes with his mouth open. 
Sometimes he will swallow the feed as if 
in pain, which is often followed by a 
chill. In a few moments he will be all 
right and go on eating again. Is there 
anything I can do in such a case? 

Ans.: It is brain trouble and is only 
aggravated by excitement, especially after 
feeding time. He may possibly outgrow 
the trouble, although this seldom happens. 
There are no suggestions necessary except 
to keep him in a warm, well bedded pen 
and give him. proper care. 



Brain Disease. 

Some of my hogs got sick a few days 
ago and stopped eating. They breathe 
iiard and sometimes in a jerky manner. 
About the second day they get weak in the 
hind quarters, stand on their front feet, 
open tlieir mouths, grit tlieir teeth, shiver 
and act as though they had a spell of 
cramps. One died with its mouth full of 
foam. What can be done in such cases? 

Ans.: The hogs are suffering from a 
brain disease and it is very hard to say 
what is the cause. It is probably due to 
indigestion. If you notice any others 
showing sig-ns of sickness give them an 
ounce of Epsom Salts for a hundred-pound 
hog, and follow up every three hours 
with one-half dram of Iodide of Potassium. 
They are very unsatisfactory cases to 
treat. 

Tumor in Brain. 

I have a little pig that was a runt from 
the start; had him outside in open pen 
and it was wet most of the time. He con- 
tracted a cold, vi^heezes and is bloated 
After awhile he got so that he couldn't 
run straight, but would go around in a 
circle of about three feet in diameter with 
head on one side, looking upward with 
one eye; he seems to have no control of 
himself. 

Ans.: The cause of the trouble is due 
to a tumor or abscess located in the brain. 
It is an incurable case. The little fello-w 
has probably been doing poorly a long 
time as these cases usually develop slowly. 

Bronchitis. 

Some of my hogs are coughing, especial- 
ly in the morning. We feed the young 
pigs slop and corn; the old pigs we feed 
corn and water. They eat well and are all 
right otherw^ise. 

Ans.: The hogs are suffering from a 
mild form of bronchitis, brought on from 
exposure during- cold storms. Do not look 
on it as anything dangerous. Keep them 
warm and dry and comfortable and all 
will be well. 

Bunch on Sovr. 

I have a sow that ran a stick in her 
neck toward the shoulder and could not use 
her leg for some time. It healed nicely, 
but there was a bunch there as large as 
a man's hand. Made an incision, but noth- 
ing appeared. Can she be kept as a breed- 
er? 

Ans.: It is not stated how deep an in- 
cision was made into the swelling. It is 
probable that within about two inches 
from tlie surface, pus -will be found. In 
probing it after the skin is cut, do not use 
too sharp an instrument lest an artery 
should be cut. If the sow is very valu- 
able there can be no serious objection to 
retaining her for breeding, but if she is 
not, it would be well, if the swelling does 
not subside, to have another take her 
place. 

Catarrh. 

What is the matter with my piggy sow? 
She is snoring and cannot grunt. She does 



SWINE DISEASES. 



31 



not seem to feel well and eats very little. 
Her nose is running as though she had a 
cold. 

Ans. : Your sow is, no doubt, suffering' 
from a catarrhal affection of the throat 
and head. You might give her a half tea- 
spoonful of Chloride of Potash three times 
a day and if possible steam the liead twice 
a day. 

Choking Hog. 

I had a pig choke very suddenly. I 
thought it was caused by a bone or some 
foreign substance in the throat, and could 
hear it breathe several rods away. I 
could nnd nothing to cause it to choke. 

Ans.: Suffocation was caused either by 
spasmodic contraction of the larynx or 
paralysis of the parts. There was nothing 
that you could do to save the animal. 
The meat is healthy. 

Report all Cases of Hog Cholera. 

A neighbor of mine who is quite a 
swine grower has a disease in his lierd 
which I think is hog cholera. He refuses 
to take any steps in the matter and I am 
afraid unless something is done the disease 
will spread to my animals. 

Ans.: When an outbreak is feared write 
to Dr. Morton S. Whitcomb, Secretary of 
the Live Stock Sanitary Board, Old Cap- 
itol Building, St. Paul. Minn. Adherence 
to ordinary sanitary conditions, however, 
is always safer than to depend on any 
official board to set things right after the 
disease has once started. It would be Virell 
to notify your neighbor that there is a 
neavy fine for not immediately notifying 
che State Sanitary Board of all suspected 
cases of hog cliolera. 

Hog Cholefa. 

I am afraid my hogs have cholera. Is 
there anything I can do for them? 

Ans.: The following is the government 
hog cholera remedy to be given once a day 
in doses of one tablespoonful to eacli 200 
pound hog: 

M^ood Charcoal 1 part. 

Sulphur 1 part. 

Sodium Chloride 2 parts. 

Sodium Bicarbonate 2 parts. 

Sodium Sulphate 1 part. 

Antimony Sulphate 1 part. 

Pulverize and mix tlioroughly. Separ- 
ate the suspected animals from the rest of 
the herd and it would be well to treat 
the healthy animals as well as the sick 
ones to the same remedy as it may be the 
means of keeping the disease from spread- 
ing. 

Cholera Preventive: 

What should I do to prevent hog chol- 
era? 

Ans.: First breed from mature breeding 
stock so as to breed vitality. Avoid in- 
breeding so as to avoid breeding out vi- 
tality. Give them abundant exercise the 



year around and plenty of fresh clover 
pasture in summer. Avoid an all-corn 
ration but give them a variety of feed, 
including pumpkins in their season, and al- 
ways give them plenty of ashes and salt 
in a dry place. In short, care for them in 
a manner to keep up the vitality and avoid 
as far as possible exposing the herd to 
cholera germs, by keeping all dogs off the 
premises, or stockmen who are likely 
to have been around cars or yards. 

Hog Cholera Questions. 

Hog cholera started in this section of the 
country last fall; it went through my 
herd and I lost 20 out of 25. They had all 
been in the same yard and slept in the 
same house. Five of them were not sick 
at all, and yet tliey were among the sick 
ones all the time. 1. Will those five be 
likely to have cholera within the next 
three months? 2. Would it be better for 
me to breed from one of the sows that lias 
recovered or sell tliem all and buy a few 
pigs next spring? 3. How should I care 
for hogs when cholera starts in the herd 
so as to lose as few as possible? 

Ans.: It would not be safe to say that 
the five animals will not have cholera at 
all, but they are not likely to have it. 2. 
It would probably be all right to breed 
the sows that have recovered. They and 
their pigs ought to be much less likely to 
take tiie disease if again exposed, although 
sometimes the pigs from such sows do 
not develop so well as from others. 3. 
When cholera strikes a herd, if possible, 
keep the well ones away. Put all the 
pigs, both well and sick, on a low diet, 
that is, on what is scarcely a maintenance 
diet. 

Prohably Cholera. 

What is the matter with my pigs? 
They stop eating, hump up, cougli and 
breathe very sliort and want to lie in 
their nest all the time. Will weigh 100 
pounds. They were running out with good 
place to sleep and were fed separator 
milk with shorts and corn and a few 
beets. Once in a while they were given 
a little clover hay. 

Ans.: It looks as though your hogs had 
cholera. Would advise you to remove the 
sound ones and disinfect your pen. Give 
the sound ones a mild purge, say a table- 
spoonful of epsom salts to each hog. Use 
plenty of disinfectants in the pens. 

Cholera. 

My hogs cougli like a horse witli the 
heaves. They do not eat well and their 
hair comes out in the advanced stages of 
the disease. I have them running at large 
and feed plenty of corn, milk and swill. 
They are in fair condition and weigh 
about 100 pounds. I killed one and the 
the liver was dark and greatly enlarged. 
In the inside it looked like clots of blood. 

Ans.: Have your hogs examined by a 
competent veterinary surgeon, the symp- 
toms resemble cholera. Use plenty of dis- 
infectants around the place where they lie 



32 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE. 



at night and remove the sound ones away 
from the diseased animals. Disinfect every 
day. 

Swine Immune from Cbolera. 

What kind of hogs, if any, do not have 
cholera? I have heard that Jersey swine 
with mule hoofs do not. 

Ans.: It is not certain that any breed of 
swine will not take cholera. There is •«. 
breed which is .sometimes claimed to 
be cholera proof. It is quite certain, how- 
ever, that the Duroc-Jerseys are not. 

Contagious Disease. 

I bought a couple of registered York- 
shires recently. One had a light cough, 
but I did not think it serious. Now, some 
of my other hogs have died. One sow 
died, "and during her last hours would 
bite and snap at everything. She would 
lie down on her belly and act as though 
she was in great pain. 

Ans.: Your hogs are probably suffering 
from some serious contagious disease. 
Some of the symptoms you gave resemble 
cholera, others do not. I do not think 
treatment in the affected cases will accom- 
plish much. The sound ones should be 
isolated and disinfectant freely used. Give 
the sound hogs a light dose of castor oil 
each, and follow it up in twelve hours with 
ten grains of quinine every four hours for 
two or three days. Keep plenty of clean 
straw in the pen and all the cold water 
they will drink. The affected hogs you 
may also give the quinine too as above and 
apply mustard to the sides of the lungs. 

Constipation. 

I have a sow that is lame in her hind 
quarter. She will stand on her fore legs 
and turn round. She eats and drinks all 
right. 

Ans.: Feed soft feed such as boiled grain 
and roots. This trouble is usually due to 
constipation and by getting the bowels to 
move more freely you may cure the dis- 
ease, but as a rule the treatment is unsuc- 
cessful. 

Probably Coiistiiiation. 

My sows are due the latter part of 
September. At times they become very 
lame in hind parts. They slide along 
rather than vvalk. Are in good flesh but 
not fat. 

Ans.: The most common cause of the af- 
fection your sows are suffering from is 
constipation. Where the bowels are filled 
with a firm compact mass there is liable 
to be pressure on the nerves passing from 
the spine to the hind extremities, causing 
the animals to lose power of the hind legs. 
The only thing to do is to give a mild 
purge of castor oil. two ounces to each 
hog, and feed soft, easily digested feed. 
It is more difficult to treat the sows on 
account of their being pregnant, but the 
oil will not injure them in any way. 



Remedy for Coughs. 

Why do pigs cough, and what is the 
remedy? 

Ans.: It may be caused by colds, dust, 
foul air, want of ventilation, wet and foul 
beds, unless it should be whooping-cough 
or pneumonia. If it is caused by any of 
the former, remove the cause. If caused 
by colds, smear the trough with pine tar. 
A little sulphur or a few drops of turpen- 
tine or kerosene in mUk, and a warm, dry 
bed, will relieve them of a common cough. 

Hogs Cough. 

My pigs were weaned last week. The 
sow has a bad cough. It seems like 
whooping cough. I have two spring fat- 
tening hogs that also cough. They are 
fat enough to sell. I feed corn and some 
shorts in slop. They all eat and drink all 
right. 

Ans.: If your hogs are fit for market you 
do not need to do any doctoring. To treat 
these cases properly they should be kept 
nice and warm and dry. Give a teaspoon- 
ful of the following, three times a day to 
each hog: Fluid extract of licorice, two 
ounces; liquid acetate of ammonia, six 
ounces. 

Bad Cough. 

My hogs are not doing well. They 
have a bad cough and some are very scab- 
by: have been feeding them cooked feed 
and corn and they seem to have good ap- 
petites, but do not gain in flesh. 

Ans.: Have a good, warm, clean pen, 
with nice, dry straw changed quite often. 
Feed liberally with good food about as you 
are doing and give following tonic: Sul- 
phate of iron, one pound; pow^dered gen- 
tian, two ounces; pulverize, and give a tea- 
spoonful to each ho,g twice a day. 

Hogs Coughing. 

My hogs are coughing. They seem E'll 
right otherwise. They eat well. 

Ans.: It is very hard to say what causes 
the cough, but very probably bronchitis, 
which in some cases results in pneumonia. 
They may have taken cold. There is also 
a possibility that you have tuberculosis in 
the herd. Good nursing is all that can be 
recommended. Keep them out of storms or 
cold winds for a time until the weather 
gets warm. Allow them as much sun as 
possible. 

Hogs Troubled T\ith Cough. 

My hogs are troubled . with spells of 
coughing when stirred up a little. They 
are not poor, and I don't think they have 
colds. 

Ans.: The coughing is probably caused 
by some irritation in the lungs or throat. 
This might arise from one of several 
causes, as for instance, going out from a 
warm pen into a chilly atmosphere. Damp 
bedding would also be an aggravating 
factor. It would be necessary to know 



SWINE DISEASES. 



33 



more about how they were managed be- 
fore one could be quite sure as to the cause 
of the trouble. Whatever the cause may 
be, the swine should be fed liberally on 
warm food and should be well supplied 
with dry bedding. If they can also be 
given a little laxative food, say one-fourth 
pound of oil cake per head each day, they 
will probably soon recover. 

Bad Cough. 

I have some hogs that have a bad cough. 
Please give cure. 

Ans. : Liquid acetate of ammonia, six 
ounces, fluid extract of licorice, two 
ounces. Mix well and give a teaspoonful 
three times a day to small pigs, and a des- 
sertspoonful to hogs. Feed warm mash and 
allow them to run out in the sun as much 
as possible. 

Bad Cough. 

About two weeks ago I noticed that 
my boar had a cough and he shakes his 
head quite often. I keep him in a dry, 
warm place but the cough seems worse in 
the morning than at any other time. T 
feed him shorts, warm water and milk. 
He is gaining in flesh every day but the 
cough hangs on. 

Ans.: Do not use the boar for breeding 
until you are sure -what his ailment is. If 
the case should prove to be tuberculosis 
it would be very bad policy to use him. 
This disease is quite common among high 
bred hogs. Toui* care of him is all right 
find if he should improve and show good 
symptoms and cease coughing, you need 
have no fear. 

Dead Pigs. 

What Is the cause of a 'Sow having dead 
pigs? 

Ans.: A great many causes might be 
given. Usually It comes from in.iiiries re- 
ceived by the sovi^s being run by horses 
or by dragging themselves over bars and 
other obstructions. Sometimes it comes 
about by sows being compelled to sleep 
in such cold places that they pile up on 
each other to keep warm and thus kill 
the young pigs before they are born. 

Deafness. 

What is the cause of brood sows becom- 
ing deaf after thev are one and two years 
old? Some of them grow deaf and blind. 
T have now a Berkshire sow, one and one- 
half years old. which is getting deaf. 
I have a good hog-house, use good, dry 
bedding, and clean out often. 

Ans.: If deafness follows in a herd, from 
dam to daughter, the cause is hereditary. 
This is not uncommon. Either change 
breeds or strain. Get sows of a new strain 
of blood, if the breed is preferred, as it 
will follow through many generations un- 
less caused by outside influences. 

General Debility. 

My hogs are not doing well; they have 



no appetite, they cough, get scabby and 
break out with sores. What can be done 
for them? 

Ans.: Mix about a teaspoonful of sul- 
phite of soda with feed for each hog three 
times a day. Change feed regularly and 
bed with clean oat straw or wheat straw; 
do not use buckwheat straw or unclean 
bedding of any kind. 

Deformed Pigs. 

I have ten sows to have pigs, and three 
have farrowed. Each sow has had one 
or two pigs that are not developed, have 
no eyes. One sow had eight living and 
two dead, one had eight and six lived, 
and the other had twelve and ten living. 
Now I would like to know what is the 
cause of each having pigs that are not 
developed. The sows are a little over 
a year old and have been running at 
large. I have fed corn twice a day. They 
got with pig by a young boar, but no 
relation to the sows. 

Ans.: This is one of the freaks of nature, 
which man cannot account for. The only 
way in which the cause can be explained 
is too close in-breeding. 

Dilation of Meat Pipe. 

We have a boar about a year old that 
does not feel well. Every time he drinks 
he presses his nose against the ground a 
few minutes. I cannot see anything else 
the matter with him. He is very greedy 
when eating or drinking. I have him on 
good clover and grass pasture. 

Ans.: The trouble with the boar is di- 
lation of the passage from the mouth to 
the stomach, commonly called the meat 
pipe, caused from being severely choked at 
some time. It may never hurt him but 
cannot be relieved. 

Doctoring Pigs. 

What is the best way to doctor pigs so 
as to keep them healthy? 

Ans.: The best way to doctor a pig is 
not to allow him to get sick. Give him a 
frequent change of bedding, a clean pen, 
plenty of good, healthy food and lots of 
room to exercise and it will save you some 
disagreeable work. It isn't easy to give 
medicine to a sick hog. 

Eczema. 

What is the matter with my hogs? 
A watery substance exudes from the skin 
causing the bristles to be constantly wet; 
on some, down the sides as well. It does 
not seem to affect them much as they have 
good appetites and appear to be well. 

Ans.: This is, no doubt, a case of eczema. 
If the weather permits, wash them with 
warm water and tar soap, three times a 
week, and a strong solution of creolin 
should be applied over the affected parts 
after washing. Change their bedding oft- 
en and keep the pens as dry as possible. 

Eczema. 

My pigs are about a month old and 
seem to be rubbing all the time. They 
are Chester Whites, but some of them are 



34 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE. 



so scabby that their skin looks nearly 
black. Please tell me what I can do for 
them. 

Ans. : Your pigs are suffering from ec- 
zema. Change their bedding frequently, 
and, if the weatlier will permit, wasli them 
thoroughly with tar soap twice a week. 
Then wash them in a solution of some 
good coal tar preparation. 

Eczema. 

My hogs have a scale on their backs 
extending down the sides about six inches. 
They rub on anything that will answer 
for a rubbing post. 

Ans.: Your hogs are probably suffering 
from eczema though it may be mange. 
They should be thoroughly washed with 
tar soap and water three times a week un- 
til the disease disappears. Twice a week 
apply crude petroleum over the diseased 
parts. Keep everything clean that they 
use to rub against. 

Sore Eyes. 

My pigs are troubled with sore eyes. 
I have some spring pigs that are nearly 
all troubled this way. They can scarcely 
see each other. What can I do for them? 

Ans.: There is no doubt a skin disease 
around the eyes. You should not let the 
diseased ones run with the sound ones. 
Wash the sore eyes once a day with warm 
water and then you may apply the follow- 
ing: Boracic acid, one dram; water, eight 
ounces. Dissolve thoroughly and apply 
this solution twice a day. Use plenty of 
disinfectant about the pens where the dis- 
eased pigs sleep; any of the coal tar prep- 
arations will do if used thoroughly. 

Sore Eyes. 

A sow that I bought a year ago has 
gone blind. Two of her pigs have sore 
eyes now and another is blind. What is 
the trouble? 

Ans.: The hogs have an incurable affec- 
tion of the eyes, and you had better get 
rid of this family and buy another of the 
same breed. You will probably have more 
or less trouble if you do not change as 
the disease is hereditary. 

Sore F"eet. 

My pigs have been kept on a cement 
floor all winter and there seems to be a 
great deal of inflammation in the sensitive 
parts of the hoof. Would it do any good to 
poultice them? 

Ans.: Poulticing the feet is practically 
impossible under ordinary circumstances 
and is therefore hardly to be recommend- 
ed. If the sores between the claws of the 
hoof are due to some foreign substance, 
the part should be thoroughly cleansed 
with warm water and soap to remove the 
dirt and if proud flesh appears a little 
ter-chloride of Antimony should be ap- 
plied at once. If this doesn't remove the 
proud flesh by the end of the third day it 



should be applied again. The sores can 
then be healed by using some kind of zinc 
ointment but should be washed and dressed 
once or twice a day according to the se- 
verity of the sores. Pigs that are so 
troubled should always be kept on a clean 
floor while being treated so as to prevent 
infection from other sources. 

Feverish Soivs. 

I have a sow^ that became feverish after 
farrowing, what should I do? 

Ans.: Feed her some raw potatoes or 
roots; they are laxative, and if it is a real 
bad case of caked udder, so the pigs can't 
nurse, rub a little kerosene in the udder. 
However, prevention would be better than 
cure. Feed properly, give plenty of exer- 
cise. Provide salt and ashes and fresh 
water all the time. 

Probably Fever. 

I have a sow that shed all the nalr off 
her back and sides during the winter. 
What caused it and how can I make it 
grow again? 

Ans.: The question cannot be satisfac- 
torily answered without knowing how the 
sow was fed and how cared for. A fevered 
condition of the system might account for 
the loss of hair and this would be induced 
by food too carbonaceous, as corn or rye. 
The trouble might arise from an unhealtliy 
condition of the system, which might be 
brought on by various causes. When pigs 
have hog cholera they sometimes lose 
nearly all their hair. As soon as the sow 
is brought into a thrifty condition, espe- 
cially after a period of grazing on good 
succulent pasture the hair should grow on 
again. 

Pigs Have Fits. 

My pigs are troubled with what seem 
to be fits and many of them die. What is 
the cause? 

Ans.: The cause is usually stomach trou- 
ble. Give each flfty-pound pig a table- 
spoonful of epsom salts and grade the 
dose according to size. Feed light food for 
a few days. Do not give any shorts or 
grain of any kind for a week. Where the 
hogs show signs of the disease you may 
give oiifc-half teaspoonful of bromide of 
potassium every four hours in a little wa- 
ter, as a drench. Careful dieting is the 
only precaution. 

Indigestion. 

I have some pigs seven or eight months 
old that go to the trough, take a mouth- 
ful or two of food and then stumble back 
on their haunches or fall over on their 
sides and shiver with their mouths open. 
In five or ten minutes they seem all right 
again. This will continue from four to 
six days w^hen they will get sick and stay 
in their beds and grunt. They die a few 
days later. I feed a little milk and swill 
from the house with shorts and shelled 
corn. Is shorts good for young pigs? 



SWINE DISEASES. 



35 



Ans.: There is evidently something 
wrong- about the digestion of the pigs, but 
what it is would be hard to tell. Do they 
have an opportunity to exercise? If not, 
give them their liberty at once. Shorts 
and milk are both good for pigs of that 
age and a small amount of shelled corn 
is also helpful. You might give them a 
small dose of linseed oil taken along with 
the food or given directly. 

Indigrestiou. 

I have a lot of April pigs and some are 
affected this way: About two months ago 
one died and four more are now sick. 
They don't appear to be sick till the la?:t 
day," they lie down and never get up again. 
They have a jerking or twitching in their 
sides for at least three weeks before they 
die. They coughed in the fore part of 
the summer. Were out on pasture and fed 
ground oats. Since August they hnve bpen 
running at large and have had corn and 
separated milk from the creamery. 

Ans.: It looks as though they were 
troubled with indigestion. Change the feed, 
giving soft, easily digested food to the 
sound ones. Be sure to keep them warm 
and dry. Do not feed any more corn for 
a week or so. Remove the sound ones to 
a separate enclosure and if possible give 
each pig a tablespoonful of epsom salts. 
Do not let them run at large for the bal- 
ance of the cold, wet weather. 

Indigestion. 

My hogs lose the use of their hind 
quarters, but seem all right otherwise. 
They eat their food the same as usual. 
Please give cause and < uro. 

Ans.: Feeding too regularly and too long 
one kind of feed is considered the cause, 
as it is liable to bring on indigestion and 
bowel trouble. Give a laxative to each 
animal affected as soon as you notice it 
coming on. Keep dry and ■warm and give 
pure air and as much sun as possible. A 
tablespoonful of epsom salts to a hog 
weighing one hundred pounds is enough 
for a laxative. 

Indigrestion. 

I fed my brood sow ground oat.-; and 
baroy and four to six ears of corn nt 
each meal. A few weeks ago she could 
not walk. She has not lost flesh but is 
still bad in legs. What is the cause cf 
this trouble? 

Ans.: The proportions of the oats and 
barley are not given, but if barley was fed 
freely and then considerable corn, as is 
stated, the diet is too carbonaceous. It is 
probably indigestion, and the sow is or 
has been constipated. If so, the carbon- 
aceous food and the constipation will prob- 
ably account for the lameness of the sow. 
The remedy would be a change of diet. 
Withhold the corn and feed more shorts, 
bran or field roots. 

Indlg^estion, 

I have a young pig that has been off her 



feet, being weak in all four legs. She is 
very weak in the legs and can just hob- 
ble along. What can I do for her? 

Ans.: Feed the pig soft food and have it 
warm if convenient. A little linseed meal 
once a day will keep the bowels loose. 
Indigestion is the cause. With careful 
feeding and a little salt once a week, clean 
water and no milk she should be in good 
shape in two weeks. 

Indigestion. 

I have two pigs. One has a cough and 
wheezes after eating. They eat and drink 
all right but seem to be troubled in their 
hind quarters and often go around kick- 
ing themselves. 

Ans.: The trouble is due to indigestion. 
If the hogs continue to cough and show an 
indication to a falling off of flesh you had 
better destroy them and take no chances 
in keeping them with sound hogs. 

Indigestion. 

My sow is lame in her hind quarters. 
About three weeks ago the lameness went 
to her shoulders. What can I do for it? 

Ans.: The cause of the lameness is due 
to indigestion. You must give an entire 
change of feed and if the bowels are 
constipated it would be well to give a 
tablespoonful of epsom salts in her feed. 
This dose is for a hog weighing 150 pounds. 
It is doubtful if she will recover. If you 
have to kill her the meat is good. 

Indi.u;e.stion. 

My pigs seem all right until they begin 
to drink swill, when they squeal and tum- 
ble over, shake and tremble, lie awhile 
and finally get up. What is the cause? 

Ans.: The pigs are troubled with indi- 
gestion. Feed less and give more exercise. 

Injured Soiv. 

Not long ago I took the pigs away from 
a sow to wean them and turned her out 
into a pasture. The other hogs fought 
and ran her. The following day on turn- 
ing her out of her pen, she could not 
stand on her front feet, but would crawl 
around on her knees apparently not hav- 
ing enough strength in her knees to sup- 
port her body. I have been feeding her 
new corn, soaked oats and slop made of 
shorts with a little milk added. What is 
the trouble and remedy? 

Ans.: The sow has been injured by the 
other hogs. From the description given, 
it would hardly be possible to tell what 
parts are especially injured, but probably 
the muscles of the limbs. The chances 
are that she will recover in time if kept 
away from those that worry her. It Is 
doubtful if medicines would be of any 
service. 

Internal Affection. 

I have a three-months-old hog that eats 
and drinks all right and seems to be do- 
ing fairly well. He holds his left ear 
down, and' takes spells of running around 
the pen, and also has a light whistling in 



36 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE. 



his throat; yellow water runs from his 
eye. 

Ans. : The case is a very unusual one. It 
might arise from various causes, but most 
likely there is some internal affection in 
one side of the head which affects the, 
brain, sympathetically or otherwise. It 
would be well not to keep the pig too long 
lest he should turn up missing some morn- 
ing. His present condition would seem to 
indicate that, minus the head, he is all 
right for food. 

Itch. 

My hogs seem to have an itch. I am 
feeding them ground barley and have 
given them some sulphur. 

Ans.: The sulphur is all right if not 
given too freely. The hogs should be 
bathed once or twice a week with a strong 
solution of any of the good coal-tar disin- 
fectant dips. 

Itching' ^ogs. 

What is the matter with hogs that rub 
against everything they come to? If it 
is a skin disease will the germs of dis-' 
ease remain on posts? 

Ans.: It may be lice, or it might be some 
skin disease. In either case use some 
sheep dip. Dip the pigs just as you would 
sheep. Apply some also to the posts and 
to the sides of the pen where the pigs 
have rubbed. In about ten days go over 
the work again to make sure of a thor- 
ough job. 

Kidney Trouble. 

I have a boar pig that is weak in the 
kidneys and lame in the back. He has a 
fine appetite ard is in good flesh. What 
can I do for him? 

Ans.: Feed the hog soft feed for two 
weeks or more, and give a teaspoonful of 
powdered nux vomica on feed twice a day. 
Keep him in a dry pen with good bedding. 
Allow plenty of exercise. 

Pigs Go Lame. 

I bought a pair of pigs that were in 
fine condition. A short time after I got 
them they had some trouble with their 
feet and would get up and walk to the 
trough and go through all sorts of mo- 
tions. Some would walk on their knees, 
others would cripple along on all four 
feet, then suddenly fall over on their heads 
or sides. 

Ans.: The pigs have evidently been fed 
high since they were bought. If they have 
not had the chance to take free exercise 
under such conditions, that alone will 
probably account for the lameness. If they 
were allowed to lie on damp or steamy 
bedding, that may also be an aggravating 
cause. It is possible to put pigs off their 
feet in the winter by simply confining them 
too closely when pushed with feed, even 
though the food should be all right. 

Lame Hogs. 

Last fall we built a hog house with bins 



8x9 feet, and board floors. Some of the 
pigs have been troubled with their feet and 
can hardly walk. Did the board floor 
cause their lameness, or have they had 
too little exercise? They have been in 
these pens all winter. 

Ans.: The board floor is not the cause of 
the lameness. It is probably caused by too 
little exercise in connection with the kind 
of food they have been getting. Pigs 
should never be in such small quarters for 
so long a time. They must have exercise 
to be healthy. 

Leg Weakness. 

My pigs are troubled in their hind legs. 
They get stiff and are unable to walk. 
"What kind of dope or stock food can I 
use? 

Ans.: There are two affections that will 
stiffen the pigs as you mention. There is 
a rheumatic affection, which affects the 
joints, usually the hind legs worst, and the 
animals lose power of their limbs. There 
is always a swelling of the joints. The 
other affection is a spinal disease which 
comes on gradually and generally shows in 
the hind legs. This is usually brought 
on from indigestion, and if taken in time 
can be relieved. If your animals are 
healthy and thrifty you had better leave 
them alone and not dope them. Remove 
the affected hogs to a separate pen, so 
they cannot be abused by the others. Feed 
the sick ones cooked grain and roots for 
a short time. Give ten drops of tincture of 
nux vomica on the feed of each hog three 
times a day. Change feed for a week on 
all the drove. If the crippled hogs are in 
good flesh you had better butcher them. 

Piprs Lo.sing Use of Hind Legs. 

What is the cause of my pigs losing tho 
use of their hind legs, and what can I 
do for them? 

Ans.: Sometimes rheumatism cripples 
pigs and sometimes it is paralysis. In 
either case give the affected pigs good, 
warm, clean sleeping quarters and soft 
feed. Avoid feeding too much corn. 

Weak in Hind Legs. 

What can I do for my pigs? They can- 
not stand on their hind legs. I am feed- 
ing corn. oats, barley, wild hay and some 
grain every day. 

Ans.: It is doubtful if you can keep the 
pigs as the affection is a very serious and 
fatal one. Change the fed and give cut 
potatoes or turnips with bran mixed with 
it to which is added a little salt. You may 
give eacTi hog a dose of salts, a tablespoon- 
ful for a one hundred pound hog is the 
right amount, and should be mixed in the 
food. It is also advisable to apply a mus- 
tard plaster to the back over the loins 
once a day for three days. Keep the pigs 
warm and dry with plenty of pure water 
to drink. 



SWINE DISEASES. 



37 



AVeak in Legs. 

I am troubled with my pigs nearly 
every year. When about four or five 
■weeks old they setm to get weak in the 
back and lose the use of their hind legs 
and in some cases they lose the use of 
their fore legs also. We used turpentine 
both internally and externally and it 
seems to liave fairly good results. Please 
tell me the cause and give a cure. 

Ans.: This disease of small pigs as well 
as large ones is a very serious one which 
has proven very hard to combat. It is 
very difficult to state the cause. There cer- 
tainly is a nervous trouble usually con- 
fined to the spine, as only the hind quar- 
ters are affected, althougli in some cases 
the front quarters are also. Then it eman- 
ates from the brain. It is usually due to 
the food they eat which causes indigestion 
and a congested condition of the mem- 
branes of the spinal cord. The pressure 
then causes paralysis. The most effective 
thing is to move the bowels with a physic 
and feed laxative foods until the pigs re- 
gain tlie use of their legs. Local treat- 
ment is beneficial. 

AVeak Hind Legs. 

What makes hogs weak in hind legs 
and still able to eat? 

Ans.: Overfeeding on an unbalanced ra- 
tion, or wet. damp or cold sleeping quar- 
ters. Sometimes intestinal worms will 
cause weakness in the limbs. 

Lousy Hogs. 

Will kerosene kill liog lice? If so. how 
should it be applied? 

Ans.: Kerosene emulsion is good for 
hog lice. Kerosene, two gallons; common 
soap, one-half pound; hot water, one gal- 
lon. Mix hot and spray both hogs and pen. 
Clean out all the pens before spraying 
and see that the hogs are given fresh, 
clean bedding. 

Lousy Pigs. 

My pigs are covered with what look 
to be hog lice, although I am not sure as 
I never saw them before. Is there any 
home treatment I can use to kill them? 

Ans.: Many old breeders scrub lousy or 
scabby hogs with buttermilk, although 
crude petroleum mixed in the proportion of 
one part of oil to forty parts of warm wa- 
ter is better. 

Hogs ■n'itli Lice. 

What can I do to rid my hogs of lice? 

Ans.: In cold weather you can apply Per- 
sian insect powder. Apply every three 
days and change the straw frequently. 
Brush the hogs w^ith a good stiff brush 
twenty minutes after applying the pow- 
der. In warm weather dip the hogs, us- 
ing one of the coal tar preparations. 

Lice on Hogs. 

I have two hogs that I notice have 



quite a number of lice on them. I hardly 
think it would be profitable for me to buj' 
a dipping tank just for two hogs. Is 
there any otlier way wliereby I can rid 
these two animals of lice? 

Ans.: In such cases as yours an old 
sponge may often take the place of the 
dipping tank. Saturate it with the solu- 
tion, and squeeze it out all up and down 
their spinal columns on both your hogs, 
allowing it to run down on botli sides. 
Be careful also to examine thoroughly be- 
hind the ears and in tlie creases under 
their jowls and between their hind legs. 
These are common hiding places for hog 
lice. 

Lice on Hogs. 

My hogs are troubled with lice. What 
can I do for them? 

Ans.: Any of the coal tar preparations 
manufactured for this purpose w^lll kill 
lice on hogs, but if you have none on hand, 
a kerosene and water spray will soon kill 
hog lice. Then thoroughly whitewash the 
pens. 

Lice on S-wine. 

I would like to know something about 
lice on swine. I have just bought a reg- 
istered Berkshire and have now discover- 
ed that he is covered with lice. I never 
saw tliem on hogs before. How can I 
get rid of them, and what is the reason 
for hogs getting them? 

Ans.: Swine can only get lice by coming 
in contact -with other s^svine thus affected, 
or by coming in contact with bedding or 
surroundings which such infected swine 
liave frequented. You can get rid of them 
by mixing sulphur and lard and rubbing 
on all of the infected liogs. You may have 
to renew the application at intervals of 
one week. Another plan is to use kerosene 
very much diluted with warm soapy water. 
Apply it with a brush and sprinkle some 
of it over the bedding and around the pen 
in which the animals are kept. This may 
liave to be applied twice, also. If the kero- 
sene is not sufficiently diluted it will blis- 
ter the skin. Any of the coal tar prepar- 
ations recommended for sheep dip will kill 
hog lice. 

Lump on Pig's Nose. 

Please give remedy to cure a lump on 
the side of young pig's nose. I am losing- 
all my young pigs from this and don't 
know what to do for tliem. 

Ans.: You probably will be unable to 
save any of those affected. Change them 
to a different pen and give an entire 
change of diet, which may assist in the 
treatment of the well ones. It would be 
well to use chloride of lime sprinkled 
around their pen. and also give a little lime 
water in their feed twice a day. If you 
have any showing enlargement of the head, 
apply tincture of iodine with a feather or 
brush once a day over the swelling. It is 



38 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE. 



almost impossible to save the diseased 
ones as they are delicate little animals to 
treat. 

Liung Fever. 

My pigs are taken sick with some dis- 
ease and after lying- around under their 
bedding, breathing- like a horse with the 
heaves, they die. The sow is in good con- 
dition and has been fed ground corn. 
They have all been in a warm barn. 

Ans. : From the description given it 
looks as though your pigs had lung fever. 
There is very little to do for little pigs 
of their age. 

Lung; Fever. 

Is there anything called "black teeth" in 
young pigs? I am losing a great many 
pigs this spring. They are mostly from 
two to three weeks old when they die. 
They fall off in feed, ears drop back 
against body and they grind their teeth 
together. Their sides work in like a 
blacksmith's bellows. 

Ans.: From the symptoms given it looks 
as though the pigs died of lung fever, 
which they probably contracted during the 
change of weather in the spring. Keep 
the small pigs in a comfortable place, 
especially during cold, damp weather in 
the early part of the year. As to black 
teeth, it is a myth. It is an old theory, 
long exploded. 

Cause o£ Mange. 

I have five shoats that have been out 
quite late in the fall and their yard was 
in a pretty bad condition before I housed 
them. I notice that they are all pretty 
mangy. Is the yard responsible? 

Ans.: Mange or other skin diseases ar'3 
often caused by filthy conditions. This is 
not only true of the yards, but also of the 
bedding. Wash your shoats with tar soap 
and warm water every other day until they 
are in their normal condition, and be sure 
to have their bedding changed every day. 

Bunches in Mouth, 

What makes bunches in pigs' mouths? 
Last summer I had some the same way 
and attributed it to dirty water. But this 
year everything was clean. They had 
fresh bedding and plenty of exercise. Is 
the disease contagious? 

Ans.: The disease is a very peculiar one 
and does not appear to be a common sore 
mouth from stomach trouble, although it 
probably originated from the stomach. It 
may be contagious, and to make sure you 
had better disinfect your pens freely with 
a strong solution of some good coal tar 
preparation. Allow the little pigs lots of 
exercise in the sun. It is essential to their 
good health. 

Canker or Sore Mouth. 

I have had a great deal of trouble this 
spring with my pigs that are troubled 
with sore mouths. What can I do for 
them? 

Ans.: The trouble is generally known as 



canker or sore mouth and is probably due 
to unhealthful milk from the sow or from 
poison on her teats which is due to con- 
tact with poisonous vines or wet grass. 
Swab the pigs' mouths out thoroughly with 
a solution of carbolic acid and water sufTi- 
ciently strong to make the fiesh upon the 
arm tingle. Apply with a rag or small 
piece of sponge tied to a stick. Strong 
sage tea applied in the same way is goor;, 
and in addition, blow powdered sulphur 
through a straw into the pigs' mouths 
Both the sow's teats and udder should be 
bathed with a -weak solution of carbolic 
acid and keep afflicted litters away from 
the other pigs. Be careful not to overfeed 
the mother when the pigs are young and 
give the pigs good, clean pens, clean beds 
and a clean place to run. 

Canker in Mouth. 

I have some pigs that are troubled with 
sores on inside of jaw close to the bone. 
It is a hard substance the color of mat- 
ter. Those affected on the lower jaw in- 
variably recover, but those affected on 
the upper jaw usually die. I have bathed 
the affected parts with diluted carbolic 
acid, and think it helped some. The sows 
have been fed all winter on ground bar- 
ley and oats steamed in equal parts, with 
an ear of corn night and morning. It 
seems to affect them when about two 
weeks old. 

Ans.: Your pigs are suffering from 
cankers or sore mouth, which is a very ser- 
ious affection in such young animals. Use 
disinfectants freely about the pen and ap- 
ply penciled nitrate of silver once or twice 
a day. Do not overfeed the so-w, and be 
sure to provide plenty of clean, dry bed- 
ding. 

Sore Mouths in Pigs. 

My pigs are troubled with sore mouths. 
What is the cause? 

Ans.: Keep the pen clean. It is brought 
about by filth. Use plenty of disinfectants 
about the pens and yards and keep them 
clean and -well bedded. 

Pigs With Sore 3Iouths. 

I have been feeding my young pigs 
with dry corn and their mouths are all 
sore. How can I remedy this trouble? 

Ans.: Dry corn will hurt the teeth and 
make the mouth sore. Shorts or oats 
should be given in the place of soaked 
corn as soon as the pigs learn to eat fairly 
well. Give them skim milk if available, if 
not, a thin slop made of water and shorts. 

Sores on Mouth. 

I have some young pigs that have sores 
around the mouth that work back over 
the body. The hide gets hard and cracks. 
They get poor and stitt and are chilly all 
the time. At last they die. 

Ans.: Use a good strong disinfectant in 
the pen and over the little pigs' bodies, 
and also on the mother. By using it free- 



SWINE DISEASES. 



39 



ly you can check the disease. Any of the 
coal tar preparations will do. 

Buncli on Navel. 

I have a two-month-old pig that was 
all right wlien born, but sliortly after a 
bunch came on liis navel. It has kept 
growing and is now about six inclies 
around, dragging on the ground. 

Ans. : Turn the pig on liis back, have him 
well secured and make an incision through 
tlie center of tlie bunch witli tlie small 
blade of a knife or lance. Be sure to have 
the knife clean before operating, and wash 
the parts thoroughly with carbolic solu- 
tion. If you find pus or serum make a 
good large opening. Keep the parts thor- 
oughly cleansed. If it is a tumor you will 
find no fluid, in which case tliere is noth- 
ing to do but dissect it out. 

Overfeeding. 

What makes pigs run to tlae trough, 
eat a little and tlien whirl and seem to 
have fits? 

Ans.: Overfeeding is the cause. Get 
them out on pasture if possible. Cut off 
the corn for a week or two and keep them 
on more of a vegetable diet. Feed plenty 
of roots with middlings slop and keep 
ashes or charcoal before them all the time 
as a bowel regulator. 

Paralysis. 

My sow had little pigs about six weeks 
ago. Now slie is crippled in the hind feet. 
What is the trouble? 

Ans.: There is paralysis of the hind ex- 
tremities. Feed soft feed, cooked pota- 
toes and roots, but no grain for a few 
days. Give her a teaspoo,nful of tincture 
of nux vomica on feed three times a day. 
Keep the bedding dry and furnish plenty 
of it. 

Pigs are Paralyzed. 

My pigs have some kind of paralysis. 
They have no control of their hind legs, 
otlierwise tliey are perfectly healthy and 
are doing well. I feed some corn, oats 
and about 120 pounds of sweet milk per 
day. Their appetites are good. They 
have the run of pasture, which contains 
clover, rape, oats, timothy, bluegrass and 
numerous kinds of weeds, which they 
relish. They are from six to eight weeks 
old. 

Ans.: This affection is usually brought 
on from rich food and usually food that is 
hard to digest, causing indigestion, which 
results in the paralysis you mention. They 
are very unsatisfactory cases to treat. 
You may give each a tablespoonful of cas- 
tor oil on an empty stomach and apply a 
thin mustard application over the loins of 
each every other day for three or four 
times. If they are constipated, stop the 
milk for ten days or more. 

Paralysis. 

I have a hog that drags her hind legs. 



She drinks very little but eats well. What 
is the trouble and what shall I do? 

Ans.: Would not bother with her. Kill 
her and get her away from the rest of 
the herd. Animals rarely recover from 
paralysis of the hind quarters, and if they 
do they are often not worth the trouble. 

Piles. 

I have some pigs that are bothered with 
piles. I lost ten fall pigs last winter witla 
it, and now tlie spring pigs are getting 
it. I am feeding buttermilk and shorts. 
What is the cause of tlie trouble? 

Ans.: The shorts is the cause of all the 
trouble with your pigs. Stop feeding shorts 
and change onto another feed for a while. 
Put a little linseed meal in tlieir food for 
a week and your trouble will soon cease. 

Pigs T»itli Piles. 

My pigs are troubled with piles, "^^hat 
can I do for them? I am feeding shorts. 

Ans.: Change the feed. Shorts certainly 
cannot agree with the pigs. Drench all 
that show an inclination to piles with a 
tablespoonful of salts. 

Piles. 

What is the cause of piles on pigs, feed 
or cold weather? 

Ans.: It is very likely due more to the 
feed than tlie cold weather, deranging the 
bowels and liver, causing the hemorrhoidal 
veins to congest. 

Piles in Hogs. 

What causes piles in hogs and what is 
the remedy? 

Ans.: Constipation. Let every swine 
breeder note this. It is the forerunner of 
many diseases and troubles with swine. 
It is what is generally termed "bad luck." 
It is always caused by feeding any one 
kind of food to excess, such as skim milk, 
buttermilk, or any one kind of grain. 
Take some jimson weed and mutton tal- 
low, make an ointment of it, and with the 
fingers moisten with this between the rec- 
tum if protruded. Use it internally and 
externally and feed a loosening and cooling 
diet. 

Pneumonia. 

One of my hogs has a bad cough. He 
has trouble breathing. He coughs all the 
time. Is it cholera? 

Ans.: The hog is suffering from pneu- 
monia and probably pleurisy as well. You 
may give It fifteen grains of quinine at a 
dose every three hours which may help, if 
not too late. Keep the other liogs sep- 
arate, and give them plenty of clean straw 
to keep them warm. Hot mashes are very 
good. There is not much danger of serious 
trouble, such as cholera, or you would 
have noticed it. 

Pneumonia. 

I lost a hog that had a cold and cough- 



40 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE. 



ed- he ate and drank until the third day 
and then I decided to butcher him. I did 
not like the looks of the lungs after I 
opened it; it looked like some disease. 
What can it be? 

Ans.: Your hog had an attack of pneu- 
monia and the lungs had not regained 
their normal condition. Do not take any 
chances with the meat, as it must be fev- 
ered from the disease. 

Poor Hogs. 

I have two poor hogs. I feed them care- 
fully, but they don't do well. How should 
I feed them? 

Ans.: First give each hog a tablespoon- 
ful of epsom salts, and after twenty-four 
hours repeat if the bowels do not move 
freely. After two days commence giving 
soft feed, such as boiled barley or oats, 
peas or any grain you may see fit. Give 
cooked potatoes or turnips and a little 
milk if you have it. This may help if they 
are not too far gone. 

Rheumatism. 

I have a sow with rheumatism in the 
hind legs. She drags herself along with 
her front feet. Can I cure her, or shall 
I fatten her? 

Ans.: It will be difficult to get her fat 
while in that condition. To fatten her is 
about the worst thing to do. If you keep 
her you will be forced to feed her mostly 
soft feed. The only internal treatment 
would be fifteen or twenty drops of tinc- 
ture of nux vomica twice a day. Keep 
dry bed and warm pen and do not allow 
her to be out during wet weather. 
Rheumatism in ST«inc. 

Is there any cure for rheumatism in 
hogs and what is it? Is their meat fit to 
eat? 

Ans.- Rheumatism in swine cannot be 
quickly cured if at all. Sometimes it can 
be removed in the course of a few weeks. 
Much depends on the case. If caused from 
feeding too much corn, the feed should be 
changed and the pigs put on a light diet. 
Encourage them to take plenty of exercise 
such as rooting in the barn yard, if in the 
winter. If the trouble is caused by damp 
pens or bedding, the defect should be rem- 
edied. If measures are promptly adopted 
at the first, the pigs will probably get well, 
but a good deal of time is required. If 
the rheumatism is not severe the carcass 
should be fit for meat especially if the pigs 
are in good health otherwise. 

Rheumatism. 

My hogs seem to be troubled every win- 
ter with rheumatism. Can you suggest 
any cause for it? 

Ans.: Rheumatism is getting to be a too 
common ailment of the hog. He should be 
provided with dry quarters and a more, 
frequent change of bedding. Don't allow 
hogs to sleep on a cement floor; this will 



give them rheumatism quicker tlian any- 
thing else. 

Treating Ruptured Pigs. 

Nearly every year I am troubled with 
having one or more of my boar pigs 
ruptured so tliat tlie scrotum becomes very 
much inflated witli the intestines. Is 
tliere anytliing to do in such cases other 
than killing the animal? 

Ans.: In treating this disease some farm- 
ers castrate the animal, pusli back the in- 
testines and sew up the opening, but this 
is a serious operation and generally proves 
fatal. A safer and easier way is to use 
clamps. Turn the hog on his back and 
gently pusli the intestines back into place. 
Tlien draw up the scrotum with tlie testi- 
cles and screw on the clamps back of 
tliem. By the time the testicles slough 
off the opening in the abdomen will have 
closed. Of course, hogs that are treated 
this w^ay must be confined by themselves 
during tlie operation and should be given 
the personal attention of their owner. If 
swelling takes place, which is very prob- 
able, the parts should be frequently 
bathed in liot water and afterwards with 
tlie following solution: Sulphate of zinc, 
half an ounce; Acetate of lead, half an 
ounce; water, one ounce. 

Ruptured Pigs. 

Can you tell me tlie cause of a sow far- 
rowing ruptured pigs? 2. If a boar takes 
his time and serves a sow but once, is it 
enougli? 

Ans.: It is not uncommon for a sow to 
throw ruptured pigs. Do not breed this 
animal again. Breed only sound females 
or those that produce good sound animals. 
2. One service is as good as two if botli 
animals are in sound health. 

Scab. 

I have five cases of scab in a bunch of 
slioats. Some are pretty bad. What is 
the best treatment? 

Ans.: The best treatment known is to 
give the pigs a bath in tar soap and hot 
water twice a week. When dry, apply 
crude petroleum all over the diseased skin. 
This is applied twice a week and is very 
effectual. Keep the diseased pigs isolated 
and tliorouglily clean and disinfect tlieii' 
pen with a coal tar disinfectant. 

Scurf. 

What is good for scurf in hogs? 

Ans.: First clean, dry beds, but when 
once affected wash them thoroughly with a, 
cloth or brush, witli strong soap suds. 
When dry, sponge tliem with carbolic acid, 
diluted, till it makes your arm begin to 
tingle, or use kerosene oil. Two applica- 
tions will generally cure them. 

Imperfect Sheath. 

I have a Poland-Cliina boar, seven 
months old. He has a growth as large as 



SWINE DISEASES. 



41 



a big- apple on his sheath. Urine lodges 
in it. It has been growing about tliree 
months. He is in good condition otlier- 
wise. What can I do for him? 

Ans.: Turn the animal on his back and 
have him held securely while you make a 
careful examination of the part. If you 
find the opening in the sheath Imperfect 
you had better make a free opening with 
a sharp knife. If it is a tumor or fungous 
growth, the only thing to do is to dissect 
it out. Be careful to keep your hands 
clean during- the operation or infection 
may set in. Keep the boar by himself and 
see that his pen is cleaned out every day 
and that plenty of clean, fresh bedding is 
provided. 

Sores on Hogs. 

Last summer my hogs got sore nose.^, 
eyes and tails. The skin would crack and 
when the scabs came off would leave raw 
sores. I feed them mostly corn and slop 
from the house with milk in it. Tliis 
spring my little pigs, a week old, are af- 
fected the same way. Although I have 
not lost any, mv neighbor hns from tlie 
same disease. They appear healthy and 
always eat all we give them.. 

Ans.: The cause may be due either to 
the feed or something wrong- with the 
sleeping quarters. It would take a per- 
sonal investigation to find the cause. At 
any rate, you will do well to use plenty 
of disinfectant about the pens. 

Spinal Trouble. 

I have five August pigs, two of which 
got crippled in their legs. I fed them 
corn, warm slop of buttermilk and ground 
feed. 

Ans.: Tour pigs are suffering from spinal 
affection due frequently _ to indigestion. 
Change your feed entirely. Feed soft 
cooked feed and more roots. If the bowels 
are constipated, give a physic. 

Pigs iritli Spine Affection. 

My pigs are about two months old, but 
seem to have no strength in the hind 
legs. They are healthy and have good 
appetites. 

Ans.: Your pigs are suffering from a 
spinal affection, no doubt caused from some 
indigestible food. Change your feed and 
give easily digested food for a week or 
two, with the following medicine: 10 
drops of tincture of nux vomica 
every five hours for four days and then 
give 12 drops three times a day for a week. 
Apply a weak solution of mustard over the 
loins twice a week. Keep the pigs dry' 
and clean. Your cases are very serious 
and recovery is doubtful. 

Spinal Disease. 

I had a sow that I had been fattening 
to butcher. From time to time she got 
lame and poor, and now she cannot get up 
to go to the trough. She can't straighten 
her forelegs. She crawls on her knees. 
Can't eat much. Her weight is 350 
pounds. 



Ans.: It is undoubtedly a spinal disease, 
very like softening of the spinal cord, 
causing paralysis. There is no help for 
the animal and you had better destroy her 
as she will continue to lose flesh and grad- 
ually grow worse until she dies. 

Spinal Trouble. 

One of my sows seems to have some 
trouble in the hind legs. She can hardly 
get up and the legs seem to grow -weak. 
Will not eat any food. Do you think it 
due to any spinal trouble? 

Ans.: It is surely spinal trouble which 
usually has a fatal termination. Give her 
a purge. A tablespoon of epsom salts in 
luke warm water is very good on an empty 
stomach. Follow this up with ten drops 
of Tincture of Nux Vomica three times a 
day. Feed laxative food. 

Spinal Disease. 

My one-year-old sow has seven pigs 18 
days old. The sow seems to be hurt or 
■weak in the back, and squeals when 
getting up. She can scarcely walk or 
stand. Has refused food for a week ex- 
cept for a little sweet milk and some raw 
meat. She is constipated and her manure 
is black and dry. Si'ie weighs about 300 
pounds and is in g-ood flesh. The pigs are 
still nursing her. Should I take the pigs 
from her? They seem hungry all the time 
but look all right. What can I do for the 
sow? 

Ans.: Your sow is affected with a spinal 
disease. If you have any convenience for 
raising the pigs, or a foster mother to put 
them on, you had better do so. Apply 
a mustard plaster over the loins, covering 
the mustard with paper and cloth, to keep 
the cold air off. Repeat the mustard ap- 
plication every day unless the skin gets 
sore. Give the sow internally, one-half 
teaspoonful of bromide of potassium three 
times a day, and if the bowels are consti- 
pated, as they usually are, then give a 
tablespoonful of salts and feed only soft 
food for a week. This is a very serious 
affection especially with a large heavy ani- 
mal. 

Spinal Meningitis. 

Eight or ten of my sows want to sit 
down when they eat. While standing they 
keep stamping their feet. My pigs are 
troubled the same way. I only raised pigs 
from one sow that had the disease and her 
pigs were all right. They have all tho 
exercise they want. 

Ans.: Your pigs are affected with spinal 
meningitis. Those that lost the power of 
their hind legs and died had softening of 
the spinal cord which is always fatal. It is 
impossible to state what caused the dis- 
ease. It was possibly due to something 
they had eaten. If your state veterinar- 
ian is notified through your local board of 
health, he will help you out. This is what 
you had better do. 

Hogs W^eak in Back. 

I have some young hogs that are weak 



42 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE. 



in the back. Some can scarcely "n'alk. 
Can I do anything- for tliem? 

Ans. : It is probably too late to do any- 
thing, as these cases are usually hopeless 
from the start. It is a spinal trouble, and 
one which rarely can be cured. The only 
thing that you could possibly do for the 
pigs would be to give them a laxative. 
A tablespoonful of epsom salts to a fifty 
pound hog. Give ten drops of tincture of 
nux vomica to each hog three times a day. 

Spinal Trouble. 

I have a j-oung sow that had pigs about 
five weeks ago. She did well for about 
four ■n'eeks and then suddenly seemed to 
lose the use of her hind quarters. If her 
hind legs are moved she squeals as if in 
pain. Her appetite is good. Is there any- 
thing I can do for her? 

Ans.: There is a spinal disease and very 
probably the joints of the hind extremities 
have taken on a form of rheumatic arthrit- 
is. It is a very serious and dangerous 
disease as you cannot give the treatment 
she should have -without injuring the little 
pigs. Give a dram of salicilate of soda 
three time a day and apply a mustard paste 
on the loins once a day for three days. 
Tou may wash the legs in mustard water 
once a day for a week. This may relieve 
her. Feed laxative food. 

Stiffened Hog. 

About a month ago one of mj' hogs be- 
came stiffened. He seemed to get worse 
and after a "while -would not come to the 
trough with the others. I put him by 
himself about t^\"o -weeks ago but now he 
lies nearly all the time. Have to move 
him sometimes to get him to eat. He is 
about eight months old. 

Ans.: Don't waste any time or money on 
the hog. If you do not destroy him now, 
he will certainly die in spite of -what you 
do for him. It is discouraging but true. 

Stiff in Hind Quarters. 

I have a so-w that had pigs last summer. 
"U'hen they were about six weeks old she 
got stiff in her hind quarters and is not 
able to use her hind legs. TSHien I raise 
her lip her hind legs are crossed. I feed 
her corn and have her out on grass. WTiat 
can I do for her? 

Ans.: There is no use treating the case 
as she -will never recover. If she is in 
good flesh you had better butcher her as 
she -will be liable to get -worse instead of 
better. There is an affection of the spine. 

Stomach Trouble, 

My hogs are not doing -well. Some of 
them turn their noses up continually in 
breathing, and blow all the time. 

Ans.: It is very difficult to state the 
cause of the trouble without seeing them. 
Tou had better change your feed and give 
quite a considerable amount of roots. 
Feed them mixed either with ground feed 
or shorts, in moderate quantities: feed the 
roots cooked. There is no medicine that 



could be recommended for this trouble. 
Sour Stomach. 

I have a number of .hogs that seem to 
be troubled with sour stomach, xhey 
keep gagging all the time, and seem to be 
full of gas. What shall I do for them? 

Ans.: See that they are provided with a 
box of salt and wood ashes, 2 quarts of 
salt to a bushel of wood ashes is a proper 
combination. Give hogs all the wood ash- 
es they will eat, and in the absence of this, 
charcoal or even soft coal will answer. 
Hogs that have not been used to salt 
should be given it sparingly until they 
become used to it. 

Sun Scald. 

My pigs are running on a rape and oats 
pasture. Their ears get sore and they 
have sores along their backs also. It 
seems to be from the heat of the sun, and 
a shower of rain makes them itch terribly. 

Ans.: The trouble is probably caused by 
their running in tall rape and oats while 
both are wet. Under such conditions the 
sun is likely to produce the result com- 
plained of. It is possible, even probable 
that white pigs are more liabl3 to sun 
scald than black hogs. 

Sunstroke. 

I have a young sow that got very fat 
after her pigs were weaned. During the 
last spell of hot weather she seemed to 
have a touch of sunstroke. I made her a 
movable pen and put it where she could 
have shade all day and fed her a thin slop 
of oats. She seems to be all right now ex- 
cept that she is unable to use her front 
legs but walks around on her knees. She 
lies down most of the time. What can I 
do for her? 

Ans.: These cases are very serious and 
the majority never regain their normal 
condition. There is a softening of a small 
portion of the brain due to a congestive 
condition of the blood vessels at the time 
of her acute attack. Tou may try a half 
teaspoonful of iodide of potassium in her 
feed twice a day for a few weeks and if 
you do not get good results you may as 
well stop the treatment. If you can keep 
her in a cool place it may have a bene- 
ficial effect on the case. Keep the bowels 
open, -with laxative food. 

Throat Trouble. 

I have a boar pig about five months old 
that has been quite fat and was doing 
-well until about two weeks ago -«'hen I 
noticed his wind getting bad. He 
breathes quite loud and has a cough. He 
has a swelling in his throat and is get- 
ting thin. It seems to hurt him to eat. I 
have been feeding corn. Is this trouble 
contagious and what -will help him? 

Ans. : If he is not a very valuable pig 
you had better destroy him. It is the 
safer way, as the disease may prove to be 
contagious. If you keep the pig he 
should be removed from the healthy pigs 



SWINE DISEASES. 



43 



i at once. Bathe the throat -with )iot "water 
three or four times a day. Mix a tea- 
spoonful of chloride of potassium in the 
water he drinks. If any abscess forms it 
sliould be operated upon as soon as it is 
ready. 

Thiunps. 

What is the matter with my six-weeks - 
old pig's? They are taken with cougliing- 
by spells and are soon unable to breathe, 
and soon die. Is it thumps? 

Ans.: Yes, it is thumps. Prevention is 
cheaper than drugs and more satisfactory. 
Thumps seldom occur except in the 
winter and early spring months, whea 
sow and pigs are confined to pens. As a 
rule the sow is a great milker. Here, 
tlien, some judgment is needed, as long as 
the sow and the pigs are not able to take 
outdoor exercise. Feed her more ju- 
diciously and overcome all weakness of 
the heart. As soon as the pigs are able 
to follow the sow outdoors, turn her out 
each sunny day, the first day for an hour, 
the next day longer, until they are ac- 
customed to take regular exercise for 
several hours each day, out of doors. This 
will prevent thumps. 

Thuiups in Pig.s. 

What is the best treatment for thumps 
in pigs and is there any successful cure? 

Ans.: After pigs once get the thumps 
there is little chance of recovery. This 
trouble comes on gradually. One may 
feed his pigs in the morning and they 
may appear to be in perfect health. At 
noon he may find that one or more lies 
still in their bed while _ the others rush 
up to the trough, or perhaps they will get 
up and take a few steps in that direction 
only to turn around and lie down again. 
When the trouble has advanced this far 
there is small chance of recovery. The 
best way to treat this disease is to pre- 
vent it, which can only be done by forc- 
ing the pigs to take exercise when they 
are very young. Pigs that are confined to 
the narrow limits of the pen become slug- 
gish and large chunks of fat form around 
the heart. This injures its functions, and 
the lungs in trying to repair the damage, 
cause the rapid heaving of the sides 
commonly known as thumps. The pigs 
should be gotten out on the ground as 
quickly as possible where they can have 
plenty of room to run about for exercise. 
If any are noticed to be sluggish or in- 
different as to whether they leave their 
bed with the others, force them out and 
fasten the hog house door to prevent them 
from returning to their bed. Exercise, good 
feeding and sunlight are the only remedies 
for thumps. 

The sows should have very little corn 
during the period of nursing, and while 



the pigs are making their growtli they 
should be given food containing a large 
percentage of protein, such as green clo- 
ver, oats or milk and just enough corn to 
keep them growing nicely without getting 
too fat. Sunlight is also necessary for the 
little fellows' development and if they 
can't get it in their pens they should be 
turned out and the door fastened for a 
few hours every day. 

Tuberculosis. 

If hogs are confined in pens or yards 
where tuberculous hogs have died some 
time ago, is there danger of their con- 
tracting the disease? Are hogs running 
with tuberculous cattle subject to the dis- 
ease? 

Ans.: Hogs will certainly take tuber- 
culosis if the disease existed in the former 
herd. This is especially true if no rain 
fell in the meanwhile. Do not put hogs 
in pens or lots w^here any disease existed 
in a former herd until a winter has passed 
and you have thoroughly disinfected their 
quarters. Hogs are very liable to contract 
tuberculosis if allowed to run with cattle 
that are badly affected with the disease. 

May be Tuberculosis. 

My hogs have contracted a cough that 
will not leave them. It seems to be catch- 
ing as many of the young pigs have it 
also, 

Ans.: You probably have tuberculosis 
among your hogs. If so it will be liable 
to affect the whole herd. You might try 
five drops of creosote to each hog three 
times a day, and continue the same for t^vo 
or three weeks. If you see no good results 
from this treatment you had better dispose 
of the hogs at once. Fumigate the prem- 
ises and disinfect thoroughlj^ before put- 
ting any other hogs in their place. 

Tumors on Pigs. 

A week or two after I castrated my 
boar pigs I noticed that bundles formed 
on the cords of some of them. What is 
the cause and what treatment should I 
use? 

Ans.: The cause is generally the result 
of infectioin from dirty instruments or 
hands during the operation. The trouble 
may also be caused by leaving the cords 
too long, thus increasing the liability 
of their becoming infected. These tumors 
have been known to grow until they were 
almost the size of a man's head. In treat- 
ing this trouble cut down on the tumors 
the same as In a case of castration. Then 
separate the skin from the tumor and 
follow the cord up as high as possible witii 
the hand and cut off. The wound must be 
thoroughly disinfected. Any of tlie com- 
mon disinfectants will do, but if there 
are none on hand a teaspoonful of car- 
bolic acid in a quart of w^ater should be 
used every day until the wound is healed. 



44 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE. 



Great care should be taken with regard 
to cleanliness about the pens after the 
operation. 

"W'eak Pigs. 

I have been feeding some two-months- 
old pig-s on bran, shorts and milk, but 
they are weak and can hardly walk. 

Ans.: Give the little fellows a physic — 
a tablespoonful of castor oil and follow 
it up with ten drops of tincture of nux 
vomica three times a day. Change the 
feed. Stop giving shorts and mJlk for a 
few days. You may also apply a light 
mustard blister along the spine over the 
loins. 

AVeak Pigs. 

What makes my pigs get weak in their 
limbs? 

Ans.: Too much fattening food, such as 

corn, and not enough of that feed that is 

rich in bone and muscle material. If 

they are not confined and have clover 

pasture with a feed of wheat middlings 

every day you will not meet such trouble. 

■Worms in Hogs. 

What causes worms in hogs, and how 
can I get rid of them? 

Ane.: There are several kinds of worms 
which infest the intestines of hogs and 
pigs, but all have, in general, the same life 
history. First comes the egg, then one or 
more Immature stages, and finally, the 
mature worm, which, in turn, furnishes 
another crop of eggs. Some of these 
parasites pass their whole life in other 
parts, or in mud Sind stagnant water. 
It is essential, when once we know 
of the existence of worms in our 
herds, to use the utmost care in remov- 
ing all excrement, manure and filth, about 
pens and yards, and disinfect ;hem with 
lime, so as not to have a recurrence of 
the same trouble, year after year. If salt 
and ashes are kept before hogs, and they 
are fed on healthy food that has not un- 
dergone fermentation, the trouble seldom 
occurs. But, if hogs are wormy, give 
them a dose of Santonine, from three 
to ten grains, depending upon the size of 
the hog or pig. Santonine is soluble in 
boiling water or alcohol. Give it to them 
in a light feed when the bowels are as 
empty as possible, twice the first day 
and repeat on successive days. When the 
pig is getting too much he shows it by 
tumbling movements, and if the dose is 
too large there are actual convulsions 
or colic. Follow this with a purgative 
of either calomel or linseed oil. For the 
common worm, which is the size of a gon.se 
quill and four or five inches long, boil 
down a strong decoction of tobacco, and 
give to each one hundred pound hog a 
tablespoonful in some swill, a few days 
in succession. 



Worms in Hogs. 

Some of my pigs are coughing and 
sneezing. They get poor and finally die. 
They seem to be wormy, for after death 
the worms come up into their throat and 
mouth. I have an idea that the worms 
work up into their throats and choke the 
pigs to death. They are fed corn, with 
water and a little milk to drink. 

Ans.: You did not state the size or the 
appearance of the worms. They probably 
came from the stomach, though not until 
after death. It is not probable that they 
choked the hogs. The symptoms given are 
more like lung fever than anything else. 
Give the sound ones one-third of a tea- 
spoonful of sulphate of copper in feed 
twice a day for a ■week. They should 
then have an ounce of castor oil to a 
hundred pound hog at the end of the above 
period. Keep the sound ones in a warm, 
dry, -well ventilated pen, and change bed- 
ding very often. If your hogs continue 
to die. you had better have the state send 
their veterinary inspector at once. 

Pigs Have AVorms. 

What shall I give my pigs to prevent 
them from having worms? I killed a ten- 
months-old pig and found four white 
worms in the small intestines; the worms 
were all together; they were about ten or 
eleven inches long and about as large 
around as a slate pencil. 

Ans.: In dealing with such an affection 
preventive measures are better than those 
of a remedial nature. A good mixture 
to give them is made up as follows: Mix 
six bushels of corn cob charcoal that has 
been well crushed, or three bushels of 
common charcoal, w^ith one bushel of coal 
ashes, eight pounds of salt and two quarts 
of air-slaked lime. Dissolve I-14 pounds 
of copperas in hot water. Sprinkle it 
over the mass and mix thoroughly. Put 
into self-feeding boxes and let the pigs 
partake of the same at will. 

Probably Stomach AVornis. 

My May and June pigs have been cough- 
ing ever since I weaned them. I gave them 
shorts and skim milk for a while, and 
now I feed them a little new corn. They 
always ate well until tonight. One of 
them refuses to eat now. They cough 
mostly after eating. 

Ans.: The cough may be due to catcli- 
ing cold, but it is more probable that it 
is from stomach derangement. Stop feed- 
ing the shorts entirely. Green stuff is 
very good, but they should be allowed 
some nourishing diet such as crushed 
corn or oats, scalded and fed in conjunc- 
tion with other and light foods. Keep 
warm and dry. Medicines are of no avail 
in these cases as it is very unsatisfactory 
to be doping little pigs. 

W'onns. 

I bought a little pig and see that it now 
has worms. What can I do for it? 



BREEDS COMPARED. 



45 



Ans.: Give the little pig- plenty of ashes, 
charcoal and good, rich, nutritious food. 
In a short time he will not be bothered 
with worms. 

Worms. 

Please tell me what will free hogs from 
worms? 

Ans.: Give the hogs a teaspoonful each 
of the following on their feed twice a 
day: Sulphate of copper, one pound, 
powdered fine, hardwood ashes, five 
pounds. Mix thoroughly and give as 
directed. 

Send for tbe State Veterinarian. 

I purchased a Poland-China boar last 
fall that was not related to my hogs in 
any way. He seemed to be a vigorous 
animal and perfectly healthy. After I had 
used him for several of my sows he sud- 
denly became very sick. He was all right 
at night but the next morning he refused 
to eat or drink and his breath came verj- 
hard and short. He died two or thre« 
days later. His pigs seemed strong and 
healthy until they weighed from sixty to 
100 pounds when occasionally one will be- 
gin to thump and breathe hard and short. 
They do not seem to have any appetite 
but continue in this dumpy state for two 
or three wreeks and then die. I have lost 
six or seven in this way. Did they inliei-it 
the trouble from the sire and is there any- 
thing I can do to prevent the sickness? 
"With the exception of the sick pigs they 
all seem healthy. I thought the trouble 
might be worms and gave them copperas 
but that doesn't prevent the disease. The 
pigs have run in a good pasture and have 
l)een well fed on corn, shorts and swill. I 
turned them into a corn field where I 
planted rape. What is the trouble? 

Ans.: You had better call in a com- 
petent veterinarian to hold a post-mortem 
examination on the next pig that dies or 
riotify Dr. Morton S. Whitcomb, Secretary 
of the Live Stock Sanitary Board, St. 
Paul, Minnesota. It looks very much as if 
the hogs were affected with tuberculosis 



and if they are you do not want to breed 
any of the diseased ones. 

Serious Pig Trouble. 

We have some young pigs from one to 
four weeks old that are troubled with 
sores on inside and outside of jaws, on the 
nose and lower joints of the feet. The 
sores first appear in the lower jaw in the 
shape of small holes which contain proud 
flesh. These holes gradually grow larger 
until at last they get about as large as a 
25 cent piece. The proud flesh or matter 
in the center of sores hardens up leaving 
a little space open at the outer edges. 
The sores become quite deep. 

Ans.: It is difficult to state definitely 
the trouble with your little pigs or what 
the cause may have been. It would be 
well to secure a qualified veterinarian to 
inspect your hogs. In the meantime, use 
some good disinfectant freely about the 
pens and yards. Have the chairman of 
your local board of health send for the 
state veterinarian to look at your pigs. 
This will be done upon his request and 
without expense to you. 

Consult a Veterinarian. 

We have a lot of young pigs about two 
weeks old. Their teeth rot off and their 
mouth all matters. Holes rot through the 
mouth, and the pigs die. 

Ans.: It would be impossible to tell 
the trouble without seeing the pigs. By 
all means consult a veterinary surgeon 
and have him make a thorough investiga- 
tion into the cause of the disease. 

Contagious Disease. 

My pigs get sore eyes and swell up, 
especially about the head and neck. They 
breathe hard and soon die. 

Ans.: Have your local board of health 
send for the state or district veterinarian 
at once. No doubt you have a serious 
contagious disease in your neighborhood, 
and should take measures to stamp it out 
immediately. 



Breeds Compared. 



The Berkshire. 

I have heard a great deal about Berk- 
shire hogs but know little about their 
history, their possibilities or general 
characteristics. Please tell me all you can 
about these hogs, as from what I can find 
out they come nearer to being what I 
want than any of the other breeds. 

Ans.: As the name indicates, this breed 
of swine originally came from the county 
or shire of Berks, England. The original 
Berkshire, unlike those of today, were 
large, rawboned. coarse hogs, with droo;j- 
ing ears; in color they were black and 
white, and even occasional red or sandy 
spots would crop out. 

The improvement of this breed began 



about 1780 when they were crossed with 
the Chinese hog; but not until about 1820 
were they brought to any degree of per- 
fection. It is stated by some that the 
Neapolitan hog was the main source of 
Berkshire improvement. This, however, 
is firmly denied by others, and there is 
little authority for the statement that 
the Neapolitan was used at all in this 
connection. 

One of the first importations to the 
United States was made by John Brentnall, 
of New) Jersey, about 1823. Some years 
later an English farmer living near Al- 
bany, N. T., brought over a few head. Since 
that time great numbers have been im- 



46 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE. 



ported, and the improvement made by 
the American breeders has been so marked 
as to cause competent judges to decide in 
favor of the American bred hogs. In "The 
Book of the Pig," Professor James Long, 
speaking of the breed for exhibition, says, 
"In America the Berkshire pig is much 
more extensively bred than with us, and 
there is in that country not only a very 
large number of breeders of pigs of an 
exhibition type but there is a Berkshire 
Pig Association, which is supported by a 
large number of members, although Eng- 
lish breeders to whom the Americans 
originally came for the foundations of 
their herds have hitherto lacked sufficient 
spirit and energy to carry anything of the 
kind to a successful issue." Although the 
Berkshire is an English breed of swine, 
the standard of American breeders is 
usually accepted in preference to that of 
the English. Among all swine, the Berk- 
shire has continued to hold its place in 
high esteem, and is today, as has been the 
case for many years, the standard for com- 
parison for other breeds. 

In characteristics, the Berkshire is pos- 
sessed of muscular power and heavy bone, 
and is more of a bacon than a lard 
hog. If desired they may be fattened 
for market at any age and when continu- 
ously and properly fed, attain great size 
and weight. The average live weight of 
the well kept Berkshire shoats placed on 
the market at nine to twelve months old 
should be 250 to 300 pounds. When ma- 
ture, they should weigh from 500 to 630 
pounds. These weights are not at all un- 
common. When used in crossing or grad- 
ing up common stock, Berkshire boars 
transmit all the valuable qualities of 
their breed with considerable certainty. 

Polaml-China.s. 

"We have several registered Poland-Chi- 
na hogs. Some of them have red hair on 
the ends of their ears, also on their backs. 
Is this a sign that they have any Red Jer- 
sey blood in them? 

Ans.: It is impossible to say definitely 
whether your Poland-China hogs are mix- 
ed with Duroc-Jersey blood. The color 
accepted by Poland-China breeders is 
white and black, but as recently as 1816 
the "Big Chinasj" as they were then 
called, w^ere large white hogs with sandy 
spots, so that in accordance writh the law 
of atavism your hogs may be pure-bred 
and yet have a few red or sandy bristles 
on them. At the same time, however, it 
looks as though there was an admixture 
of either Duroc-Jersey or Tamworth in 
your hogs, somewhere a few generations 
back. 

Poland-Chinas v.s. Dnroc-JerseTrs. 

Which kind of hogs is the best to breed, 
the Duroc-Jerseys or the Poland-Chinas? 



Ans.: There is probably but little dif- 
ference now between the two breeds. They 
are becoming so nearly alike in form that 
if the Poland-Chinas were red they would 
pass for Duroc-Jerseys. There is probably 
no material difference between the feed- 
ing properties of these pigs. Years ago 
the Durocs were longer in limb and bettor 
rustlers than the Poland-Chinas, while 
the latter fed more easily. But it would 
not be safe to say that the same difference 
exists now. 

Doroo-Jersey Serine. 

I am an Eastern man and intend <o 
move to Iowa next spring. I would like 
to know if the Duroc-Jerseys are popular 
in that section of the country. Are they 
vigorous and rangy and do they produce 
as strong, healthy litters as in former 
years? 

Ans.: The Duroc-Jersey of today is an 
animal that stands high in favor with 
many western growers. W^hen first brought 
west into the corn belt, Duroc-Jerseys 
commended themselves to swine growers 
largely because of their good rustling 
qualities. In those days much of the corn 
was harvested by the swine where it grew. 
Duroc-Jerseys are active and vigorous, 
and give a good account of themselves 
while thus harvesting the corn. The act- 
ive powers which made them good rust- 
lers also had a favorable influence on the 
breeding qualities; hence they were pro- 
lific also. Gradually, however, modifica- 
tions have been going on. The leg and 
body have grown shorter and at the same 
time more massive. This change of form 
has brought with it a more sluggish dis- 
position which the breeders will do well 
to cultivate. It is possible to make the 
legs so short and the body so dumpy and 
compact as to interfere seriously with 
the breeding qualities and also hurt their 
reputation. While it is not desirable to 
change the breed so as to revert to the 
rangy type, they ought to have enough 
length of body and limb to keep them 
active and enable them to rear healthy and 
strong litters. 

Duroo- Jerseys. 

Is the Duroc-Jersey a profitable breed 
of hog? 

Ans.: The Duroc-Jersey is the same as 
the Jersey Red and is both popular and 
profitable. This breed is noted for pro- 
ducing large litters and they are good 
rustlers. 

Diiroc- Jerseys. 

Is there any difference between Duroc- 
Jerseys and Jersey Reds, and if so which 
are better and why? 

Ans.: There is no difference between the 
Duroc-Jerseys and Jersey Reds. Both 
names are applied indiscriminately to this 
breed. 



BREEDS COMPARED. 



47 



Duroc-Jerseys vs. Chester Whites. 

Is the Duroc-Jersey an all around bet- 
ter pig for the farmer than the Chester 
White? If so, why? 

Ans.: It ■would scarcely be correct to say 
that one of these breeds has any marked 
superiority over the other, so far as econ- 
omy in production is concerned. Which 
of these a farmer should grow should be 
determined by his tastes and also by the 
market which he will try to meet. Both 
are excellent breeds when rightly chosen 
and grown; but the Chester White is a 
larger breed than the Duroc-Jersey, 
whereas the latter, being smaller, is prob- 
ably rather the more active of the two. 
In prolificacy it would scarcely be safe 
to say that one breed has an advantage 
over the other. 

O. I. C. Swine. 

I would like to know what the O. I. C. 
swine are. 

Ans.: The O. I. C swine are the Ohio 
Improved Chester swine. They are a 
somewhat carefully bred variety of the 
Chester White breed. Whether they are 
superior to the Chester White, is, of 
course, a matter of opinion. 

Improved Chester Whites. 

I would like a description of the im- 
proved Chester White swine. Are they a 
large or small breed, fine or coarse? What 
is the difference between them and the 
Improved Yorkshires? 

Ans.: Improved Chester White swine are 
a large breed of white hogs, as the name 
indicates. As now bred they are fairly 
refined and are stronger' in limb and bone 
than the average Poland-China. Com- 
pared with large Yorkshires, they are 
broader in the back and, in fact, broader 
everywhere, but have not so much depth 
of side in proportion to the width. They 
incline to the fat hog when finished, 
while the Improved Yorkshire inclines to 
the bacon type. Both classes are reason- 
ably prolific, but in this the advantage 
lies with the Yorkshires. 

O. I. C. and Chester White :§wine. 

What is the difference between the O. 
I. C. and the hog commonly called Ches- 
ter-White? Is the former a better hog, 
and if so, in what respects? 2. Is it true 
that the O. I. C.'s and Chester Whites do 
not mature as early as Poland-Chinas, 
and that they are harder to fatten? My 
own experience w^ould lead me to believe 
that while Chester Whites may not al- 
ways look as smooth as Poland-Chinas, 
they make more growth and more pounds 
of live weight for what they consume. 
Am I right? 

Ans.: The difference between the Ches- 
ter White swine and the O. I. C. swine 
is, that the latter is an improvement on 
the former. That is, they are a little 



more refined, will breed better and are 
truer to type. 2. There is a little truth iu 
the idea that Chester White sw^ine do not 
mature quite as quickly as Poland-Chinas, 
but much depends upon the way in which 
they have been bred during recent geneia- 
tTons. On the whole, the Poland-Chinas 
probably mature a little earlier, and the 
Chester Whites grow better for a period 
somewhat longer. On the average, 
Poland-Chinas will make more growth 
than Chester Whites up to a limited age,, 
but the reverse will be true when that 
age, say four or five months, is past. 

The' Essex. 

Please tell me something about the Es- 
sex hog. I want to know^ something 
about their history and how they compare 
with the Durocs, Poland-Chinas and 
Berkshires. Would this breed be profit- 
able in North Dakota and Northern Min- 
nesota? 

Ans.: This breed takes its name from 
the county or shire of Essex, England, 
where it originated. It is valued more 
for its quiet disposition, rapid growth 
when young and early maturity than for 
its size or ability to produce a large 
amount of meat. The old Essex hogs were 
large, gaunt and "slab sided" with no par- 
ticular color. This breed has become well 
known in America particularly in the 
south where they are being pushed with 
great vigor. Wherever there is a local 
demand for well matured hogs of small 
or medium size, or for pigs of which one 
or two are to be kept in a small pen 
and fed principally on slops from the 
house and the refuse from the garden,^ 
the Essex is a valuable animal. The mod- 
ern American bred Essex is a medium 
sized hog weighing, when mature, some- 
thing like 250 to 400 pounds. They have 
fine heads, firm boned legs, close "chunk- 
ed" bodies and are good rangers. They 
fatten easily and are seldom troubled 
with mange or sun scald. It is a question 
as to whether the Essex can ever com- 
pare favorably with the Duroc-Jersey, Po- 
land-China or Berkshire in the western 
states, as long as corn remains the cheap- 
est, or at least the principal swine food. 
In the South where cotton is still king, 
the Essex has no equal. The tendency 
on the part of this breed to fatten easily 
has been raised as an objection against 
it, but it would be hard to find the breed- 
er who desires the acquaintance of a large 
number of lean hogs. He is generally 
looking for animals that fatten quickly, 
giving the greatest possible returns on 
the investment. The Essex swine have 
a great future. They would be found 
profitable in North Dakota and Northern 
Minnesota and Wisconsin where corn as 
yet does not comprise most of the swine 



48 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE. 



ration. There are some excellent types of 
this breed to be found in Minnesota. 

Victoria Swine. 

Do Victoria swine raise large litters and 
are they hard breeders? Are they getting 
to be heavy-weights? Do the sows tak-; 
good care of their litters? 

Ans.: There are a few Victoria breeders 
in the northwest, although it is hard 
to explain why these hogs are not as popu- 
lar as in some sections of the east and 
southeast. These animals are white in 
color and range from medium to large, 
weighing when twelve months old from 
300 to 400 pounds. Victoria breeders 
claim them to be an economical breed for 
pork production. The sows generally pro- 
duce large litters and are good mothers. 
It is claimed for them that they are not 
susceptible to mange, scruff, sun scald or 
other similar troubles which have made 
hog breeders fight shy of white hogs in 
general. 

Small Yorkshires. 

I have just ordered two small York- 
shires. How are they as porkers? Did I 
make as good a purchase for fat produc- 
ing and for market as if I had chosen the 
large Yorkshires? Also for quick ma- 
turity? 

Ans.: For quick maturity and for pro- 
ducing fat pigs for market that may be 
sold from 5 to 6 months, there is probably 
no breed superior to the small Yorkshires. 
The large Yorkshires are a bacon breed 
and should be kept 7 or 8 months before 
being slaughtered. 

Large Yorkshires. 

Please tell me something about the 
characteristics of the large Yorkshires 
and whether they are popular for crossing 
on Poland-Chinas and Berkshires. How 
are they for producing bacon? Are they 
good feeders? 

Ans.: With regard to the most important 
characteristics of the large Yorkshires, 
these hogs should always be white all 
over the body, although bluish or black- 
ish spots which occasionally appear on 
the skin do not necessarily disqualify 
them for registration. The head is of 
medium length with but little upward 
curve. Broad, strong under jaws and 
short heads are prominent features. The 
ears droop forward and sliould be of 
medium size, heavy but never loppy. The 
back is broad like that of a Poland-China 
and should be both lengthy and deep. The 
hams of the large Yorkshire are never ex- 
tremely fat or heavy but should be of 
good thickness and size. Sows of this 
breed have been known to weigh 1203 
pounds while they frequently reach 1000 
pounds. Many breeders claim that large 
Yorkshire boars crossed with either Berk- 
shire or Poland-China sows will pro- 
duce excellent feeders, the combination 



giving pigs that grow rapidly, feed well 
and make a fine smooth finish with an 
excellent quality of meat. As a bacon 
producer the Yorkshire is noted. The 
celebrated Danish and Irish bacon is pro- 
duced very largely from this breed. Some 
objection is raised by feeders of other 
breeds that the large Yorkshires do not 
eat the ordinary foods that are relished by 
Poland-Chinas or Chester Whites, but ex- 
periments along this line prove the York- 
shire to be an excellent feeder, produc- 
ing prime bacon and lots of it. 

About Breeds. 

Is there any difference in the breeds of 
Jersey Red, Tamworth and Duroc hogs, or 
are they all one breed? 

Ans.: The Tamworth and Jersey Red 
breeds of swine are essentially different 
breeds. The Tamworths are an English 
breed of the most pronounced bacon type. 
They are long in body, nose and neck 
and are inclined to length of limb. The 
Jersey Reds or Duroc-Jerseys are an 
American breed, and except the color are 
much like the Poland-Chinas. They are 
thought by some to be a little stronger 
in the limb than the Poland-Chinas. The 
only resemblance between the Tamworth 
and Duroc-Jerseys is the color. 

Breeds of Serine Compared. 

Are Berkshires and Duroc-Jerseys as 
easy keepers as the Poland-Chinas, ani 
which of the three breeds can be put on 
tlie market the quickest? 

Ans.: It would not be safe to claim 
that anj' one of the three breeds of pigs 
named has any advantage over the others 
in easy keeping qualities or in early ma- 
turity. Experiments that have been con- 
ducted with reference to this question 
have shown that there is more difference 
in the individuality of the animals them- 
selves than in the breeds. 

Breeds Compared. 

Are Duroc-Jer;5eys as good hogs to 
raise as Poland-Cliinas or Chester 
Whites? Are they prolific and are they 
good mothers? 

Ans.: Duroc-Jerseys are giving excel- 
lent satisfaction. They, as a breed, do 
not mature as early as the Poland-Chinas, 
but are usually considered as good moth- 
ers and more prolific. As to size of lit- 
ters and time of maturing they are about 
on a par with Chester Whites. By similar 
methods of feeding and breeding the 
three above mentioned breeds are coming 
nearer together in general characteristics. 

Are Poland-Chinas Prolific? 

In an exchange I notice a complaint of 
a Poland-China breeder to the effect that 
liis sows are lacking in prolificacy, hav- 
ing produced only four pigs to the litter. 
What is the cause? 



BREEDS COMPARED. 



49 



Ans.: When such results take place the 
management rs in some way at fault. By- 
proper selection and feeding Poland- 
Chinas will produce freely enough. In 
making selection, sows should be chosen 
from large litters. This plan should also 
be followed in choosing males, although 
with sows such selection is of the first im- 
portance. Other precautions are necessary 
but the course of action recommended 
will in itself go a long way toward in- 
creasing the prolificacy of the dams. 

Finisblng Age. 

At what age is it best to finish the Po- 
land-China for market? 

Ans.: In growing Poland-Chinas for 
market, have them ready to go at about 
six or seven months old, ■weighing from 
200 to 225 pounds. When raising a large 
number of hogs for pork, it might pay 
you to raise two crops a year. 

Best Breed of Hogs. 

Which is the best kind of pure-bred 
pigs to buy? Is the Small Yorkshire a 
good kind? Can as much money be made 
with them as with the Poland-Chinas or 
Large Yorkshires? There don't seem to be 
many farmers raising the Small York- 
shires. What is the reason? Don't they 
grow as fast as other breeds? Is the 
Chester White the largest breed there is? 

Ans.: The best breed of swine will al- 
ways be a matter of opinion. It is affect- 
ed considerably by the local conditions 
of the market. Small Yorkshires are 
suitable pigs for any one having a mar- 
ket for young animals that will grow 
quickly and can be turned off at any age 
under six months. The Large Yorkshires 
do better to be kept until seven or eight 
months old. They are bacon hogs and 
wherever there is a market for the bacon 
hog it will be profitable to raise them. 
They produce large litters and are vigor- 
ous and healthy. The Poland-Chinas are 
also a good breed, one of the best where 
they have not been allowed to become too 
small in bone or too short in body and 
where their breeding qualities have been 
kept up in good shape. The Berkshires 
are becoming more popular all the time. 
It would not be correct to say that any 
one breed will positively prove most prof- 
itable under all conditions. The Chester 
Whites are about the largest of the breeds 
but in some instances the Large York- 
shires are larger. 

Best Hog for Market. 

Which is the most profitable for the 
farmer to feed for market, the full-blood 
or the cross-bred hog? 

Ans.: Do not pay an extravagant price 
for a full blood sow where the object is to 
raise pigs for pork. However, if you can 
buy at about pork prices full-bloods that 
have not been bred too fine or overfed on 



fattening foods, and that have not been 
overconfined, it would pay to get them. 
Buy a pure-bred boar no matter what your 
females may be. 

The Best Hog. 

What is the best hog to grow? 

Ans.: The best hog for the farmer to 
grow is the breed that he is in love with, 
as that is the pig he will give the 
best care and will make him the most 
money. There is no "best hog." The best 
hogs are those that get the best attention. 

Selecting a Breed. 

I am going into the hog business. Du- 
rocs seem to be in favor here but I prefer 
the Berkshire. Shall I cater to the trade 
or raise what I prefer myself? 

Ans.: The man who is raising hogs to 
be sold for breeders cannot be too careful 
to grow only such animals as come near- 
est his ideal type and breed. Don't try 
to raise something you do not like your- 
self. 

Color In the Swine. 

I have a pure-bred Poland-China boar 
and I wish to know if he is bred to some 
scrub sows mostly white, if the pigs will 
be of the color of the sire or marked like 
the sows? 

Ans.: If the sows are of mixed breeding, 
which in all probability they are, the pre- 
ponderance of color in the young pigs will 
be black; but in all probability they will 
be spotted. 

The Pork Breeds. 

Can any particular breed be recom- 
mended as being profitable? 

Ans.: No, but for anybody raising hogs 
for pork he shouldn't go outside of the 
Poland-China, Jersey-Reds, Berkshire or 
Chester Whites; those are the best four 
pork breeds. 

Bacon vs. Pork Hogs. 

Which of the two classes brings the 
best price on the market, bacon or pork 
hogs? 

Ans.: According to reports, the bacon 
hog appears to be selling for the most 
money, that is, the Irish and Danish bacon. 

Lard or Bacon Type. 

Is the Duroc-Jersey considered a lard 
or bacon hog? 

Ans.: Duroc- Jerseys are classed as a 
lard type, although environment has a 
great deal to do with it. In the corn 
states the Duroc-Jersey is pronouncedly 
of the lard order but if taken up into the 
wheat belt of northern Minnesota or the 
Dakotas and fed largely on rye and barley, 
it is likely in time to incline somewhat 
toward the bacon type. 

Crossing Swine. 

Of the two breeds of swine. Large Im- 



60 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE. 



proved Yorkshires and Tamworths, which 
is the best to cross with Berkshires? In 
mating for a cross, which sex should tlie 
Berkshire be? In what respect have the 
Yorkshires and Tamworths been im- 
proved, and which of these two breeds at- 
tains greatest weight at six months of 
age, and also at maturity? Which is the 
easier keeper? 

Ans. : There is very little real choice be- 
tween the Yorkshire cross upon the Berk- 
shire and the Tamworth cross upon the 
same. The progeny from the Yorkshire 
would be white and from the Tamworth 
■cross red and black intermixed. Breeders 
generally prefer using Berkshire females 
for the reason that they are far more num- 
erous than the females of either of the 
other two breeds, at least in this country. 
The Yorkshires and Tamworths have been 
improved by more than a century of care- 
ful breeding. The Tamworths are pro- 
liably the largest breed of swine in Ameri- 
ca at this time. There is but little differ- 
ence, if any, in the average weight of the 
pigs at 6 months of age. At maturity. 



possibly the Yorkshire is the larger, but 
this also may be disputed. There is prac- 
tically no difference in their keeping 
qualities. 

Kffeets of Crossing. 

Will crossing two breeds have much to 
do with producing uneven litters? 2. In 
raising hogs to fatten for market, would 
it be best to breed in line or cross? 3. 
How would a Poland-China on Chester 
White be for a cross for this purpose? 

Ans.: Whether cross-breeding produces 
uneven litters or not, depends upon the af- 
finity or lack of afllnity, in the breeds 
crossed. They cannot be determined until 
the experiment has been made. 2. In rais- 
ing hogs to fatten for market a judicious 
cross generally brings more rugged ani- 
mals and somewhat more growth than 
breeding in line, but an injudicious cross 
will have the opposite effect. 3. Poland- 
Chinas on Chester Whites usually give 
satisfaction. The same is true of the op- 
posite mode of crossing. 



Miscellaneous. 



Castrating: Boar Pigs, 

I have six sows that farrowed last 
week. Two-thirds of the pigs are boars. 
Shall I castrate them, and if so when is 
the best time to do it? 

Ans.: Castrate all boar pigs not needed 
for breeding. This can be done any time 
after the pigs are a month old, and if done 
at from four to si.x weeks they will have 
fully recovered before they are weaned. 
If not done then it is better to wait until 
a month after weaning, so that they will 
have become thoroughly accustomed to 
eating solid food. 

Castrating Pigs. 

Is it dangerous to castrate pigs in cold 
■weather? 

Ang. : If the pigs have good, warm, clean 
sleeping quarters, they can be castrated in 
cold weather, but fall or spring weather is 
preferable. 

Castrating November Pigs. 

When should I castrate November pigs? 

Ans.: While they are yet nursing the 
dam. As soon as you can distinctly get 
hold of the testicles. The earlier the bet- 
ter. 

Castrating Old Boars. 

I have a fine boar but he is too old for 
service and I have been unable to find a 
purchaser. Will it be safe to castrate him 
and what is the best method of conduct- 
ing such an operation? 

Ans.: Draw up one hind leg and fasten 
it securely to a post. Fasten another rope 
around the upper jaw, back of the tusks. 



draw it tightly and fasten it to another 
post. An animal in this position can offer 
very little resistance. In castrating, the 
cuts should be low down and no longer than 
necessary. The cut should extend low 
enough, however, so that there will be no 
pocket left in the sack to hold pus which 
forms during the healing process. An op- 
eration of this sort should not be con- 
ducted on boars that are very fat or dur- 
ing the hot weather as the risk is then 
much greater. If they are castrated early 
in spring and kept on grass through the 
summer, they will fatten up readily and in 
the fall their flesh will be very little more 
rank than that of other hogs. Emasculat- 
ed boars are apt to be cross and quarrel- 
some if kept with other hogs and on ac- 
count of their tusks to do great damage. 
It is therefore advisable to fatten stag 
hogs by themselves. 

Trouble With Pigs After Castrating. 

Last spring we had some pigs castrated. 
A long opening vsas made and the cords 
well drawn. The pigs did well at first, but 
later a large growth formed and now it 
seems hard. Some break open but do not 
suppurate. The season has been very wet 
and muddy. 

Ans.: It is probable that your hogs are 
suffering from scirrlius cord. It is hard to 
understand how you could have any other 
trouble with the pigs if you did the opera- 
tion neatly and were careful to have your 
hands and knife clean. It will not pay 
you to go to much expense with the anl- 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



51 



mals. Fatten them for the butcher and 
get them off as quickly as possible. 

Trouble After Castration. 

What is the matter with one of my 
hog-s? About five months after he w«s 
altered a large swelling or boil gathered 
at that place. It grew to be as large as 
a three-quart pail, and then broke. In a 
few weeks it gathered again and broke 
and has done the same several times. 
Each time it was larger than before. It 
does not seem to affect his health. He 
eats and gro-A^s well. Is there any cure? 

Ans. : The only relief for your hog is to 
have an operation performed and remove 
the cause. The operation should be per- 
formed before the weather gets too warm. 
Operations of this sort are so rarely suc- 
cessful, however, that it will probably pay 
you to fatten the animal and sell it to 
your butcher as quickly as possible. 

Trouble With Castrated Pigs. 

My renter has suffered this year from 
the male pigs not healing well after cas- 
tration. They swell up behind as though 
ruptured. Pour or five out of twenty are 
troubled this way. The same man per- 
formed the operation last year but had no 
trouble. 

Ans.: The trouble is usually due to sclr- 
rhus cord, from not being cart^ful in the 
operation, leaving too long a cord or not 
being clean with hands or instruments. 
They are not ruptured or you would have 
seen evidence of it at the time of opera- 
tion. Do not allow the pigs to crowd each 
other through doorways in going to the 
trough, or to pile up too much at night. 

Quarrelsome Hogs. 

I have been very much troubled, every 
time I have a lot of hogs to be fed, with 
their quarreling, and often find it neces- 
sary to go into the pen and separate the 
animals, but they generally begin again 
as soon as I leave them. What can be 
done? 

Ans.: Many swine breeders claim that* 
this restlessness is due to a feverish con- 
dition and that they will bite each other 
for want of something to cool their fever. 
Stone coal has been given to such hogs 
with a claim that it has effected a com- 
plete cure. It will at least be worth your 
time to give it a fair trial. 

To Prevent Soivs From Fighting. 

What can I do to get two sows used to 
each other so that I can keep them to- 
gether? They fight all the time and I 
want to get them so I can put them in 
the same pen where they can sleep and 
eat together. 

Ans.: Sows can sometimes be quieted by 
placing a boar in w^ith them as he often 
acts as peace-maker when two sows get to 
fighting. 

High Tempers in Pigs. 

Why do pigs show high tempers and 
bite each other? 



Ans.: It is pretty hard to tell, but it is 
often necessary to remove one of the pigs, 
or take nippers and pull the baby teeth or 
tusks. This usually brings peace to the 
family. 

Hogs Fat Faeh Other. 

My hogs w^ere on clover last fall. I 
brought them in and shut them in the 
pen. They all jump on one and kill it. 
They do not eat the carcass but seem sat- 
isfied as soon as one is dead. I feed a 
variety. What makes them do it? 

Ans.: Turn a boar among them. He 
might stop their fighting. There is noth- 
ing else to do unless you watch, find which 
are the offenders and cut them out of the 
herd. 

SoTFS Fating Their Own Pigs. 

How can I prevent my sows from eat- 
ing their own pigs at farrowing time? 

Ans.: If this unnatural appetite is not 
caused by a diseased condition of the uter- 
us, which is seldom the case, it is gen- 
erally caused by the confinement of the 
sow, with no exercise, and being fed on a 
food that is heating and constipating in 
its nature. Often the withholding of salt 
for a long period causes derangement of 
the bowels and liver. It will seldom 
occur if she has been fed on a mixed food 
with an addition of roots or oil meal. 
However, if it should occur, take all the 
pigs away at once, and when she lies down 
pour into the ear a mixture of ten to twen- 
ty grains of spirits of camphor, with one 
to three of tincture of opium. The sow 
will lie down on the side the application 
is made and will remain so for hours, and 
will lose her irritability in regard to the 
pigs. Of course, let them nurse while she 
is in this state. Sometimes it is caused by 
the pigs biting the sow. If so, remove 
with a pair of nippers, the upper and low- 
er tusks of them all. 

So^v Fats Pigs. 

I have a sow that has commenced eat- 
ing her pigs. They are about three weeks 
old. How can I prevent it? 

Ans.: Remove the little pigs from the 
sow as soon as they are done sucking. 
Feed good rich food and a little sprinkle 
of salt occasionally. Do not breed this 
sow again as she is liable to commit the 
same offense. 

Sows Fating Young. 

Have been troubled with sows eating 
their young. Tried giving them salt 
pork, but it did no good. 

Ans.: Give them a dose of epsom salts in 
feed every five or six days for a time be- 
fore farrowing, and feed raw potatoes 
freely. This has been suggested by an old 
swine breeder. 

Hogs Fating Their Young. 

My hogs eat their young after they are 



52 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE. 



five weeks old. How can I prevent it? 

Ans.: It is generally some defect in the 
food which leads sows to eat their own 
pigs. They do not get enough nitrogene- 
nous, or flesh-forming food. Change the 
ration and watch them carefully. If the 
sows still continue to eat their young do 
not retain them for breeders, but fatten 
and sell them off as quickly as possible. 

To Prevent a Sow From Elating Her Pig-.s. 

How can I prevent a sow eating her 
pigs? 

Ans.: Feed her largely on food that 
tends to promote growth and not fat. It 
is the corn fed sow that eats up her pigs, 
and not the one that has the run of the 
barnyard and that is fed largely on slops. 

Hogs Eat Cbickens. 

Is there anything to feed hogs to keep 
them from eating chickens? I have a pen 
of fattening hogs and every time a hen 
gets in the pen the hogs catch and eat it. 

Ans.: It looks as though your hogs are 
getting too much corn, and that they eat 
the chickens to satisfy a craving for food 
that is not so rich. You had better feed 
less corn and try giving them some oats, 
bran or middlings. You will then have a 
more balanced ration, and if your hogs 
have not acquired a fondness for chicken, 
you may save the others. If possible, you 
had better cover the yards over with 
chicken wire. Give the hogs charcoal and 
salt and all the clover pasture you can. 

RogH Eatins Hens. 

In the fall of the year I always lose a 
number of hens that fly over into the hog 
pen while the hogs are eating. Why is it 
that at this time hogs will kill and eat 
poultry? 

^ns. : There is evidently something 
w^rong with the feed they are getting that 
causes this unnatural desire. It is gener- 
ally due, howeT^er, to a lack of variety, and 
is most noticeable when they are on a 
strictly corn diet. A little middlings and 
milk or water, or an occasional feed of 
barley and rye serve w^ell to overcome this 
difficulty and it is also well to have before 
them constantly a little salt and charcoal 
or wood ashes where they can get it at all 
times. 

Expensive Pens. 

My neighbor has been in the hog busi- 
ness quite a number of years and is now 
putting up some very expensive pens. I 
am only a beginner as compared with his 
experience with swine, and want to know 
if it would be advisable to start with ex- 
pensive pens and fewer hogs or more 
hogs and common pens. 

Ans.: Expensive pens are not always the 
most comfortable. The aim should be to 
secure comfort first and appearance later. 
It is better to start with a moderate num- 
ber of hogs at first until one becomes 



somewhat familiar with the business, in- 
creasing the size of the drove as occasion 
would seem to warrant. It is surely a 
mistake for a beginner to spend a very 
large amount of money on buildings be- 
fore he sees his way out of the woods. 

Room for Brood Sow. 

How large a room would be best for a 
brood sow? 

Ar^s. : Good brood-sow pens can be made 
six by eiglit feet with a pen in front of the 
same size w^hich is not covered. Be sure 
to have a guard rail all around the pen if 
the sow is placed there before farrowing. 

Sleeping- Pens. 

Should the sleeping pen be in the far- 
rowing pen? 

Ans.: The sleeping pen should be where 
the sow and pigs are kept, in the farrow- 
ing pen, until the pigs are large enough 
to run out. In front of that have a large 
feeding floor and a double door, which you 
can open and let the pigs run out. Pro- 
vide a sloping floor where they farrow and 
sleep. 

Pens. 

Is it best to let hogs sleep and exercise 
all in the same pen? 

Ans.: You can fall into no greater folly 
than to confine pigs to a pen. Exercise 
and fresh air are essentials to the 
feeding of animals. If you feed your hogs 
in a pen and do not give them exercise, 
and tliey have no access to the earth so as 
to get the phosphate from the ground by 
rooting, they will surely go wrong. 

Hog House. 

How shall I build a hog house for eight 
brood sows, one boar and the litters? I 
want feed room, sleeping room, feeding 
floors and farrowing pens. 

Ans.: Build an out-of-door feed floor to 
feed on, portable farrowing pens for the 
sows at farrowing time, and a good, warm 
building about 16x24 for sleeping quarters 
for the sows and their litters after the 
pigs get a nice start in the spring. 

Farrowing Pens. 

How large should I make my farrowing 
pens? Of course, I mean to have but one 
sow in each pen at once. 

Ans.: The farrowing pen need not be 
large, 10 feet square is ample but it should 
be where the sow w^ill not be disturbed 
by other animals and if possible have it 
placed where she can have plenty of sun- 
shine in her pen most of the day. 

Botlier by Wind. 

Is there any danger that the wind will 
blow over the little individual farrowing 
pens? 

Ans.: No. Have your yards well pro- 
tected and there will be no danger. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



53 



Summer Shelter for Hogs. 

I have a fine pasture for my hogs this 
year, but it is getting- very hot and as 
there are no trees in the field I am afraid 
my hogs will suffer from the sun. What 
kind of shelter can I put up for them? 

Ans.: A very cheap but effective shelter 
can be made by putting up a board roof 
supported by four posts in some corner of 
the pasture, or if you have a number of 
portable farrowing pens elevate them on 
posts about 31/2 or 4 feet above the ground. 
Your hogs will soon learn to appreciate the 
shade they will thus make. 

Ventilation. 

What is a good way to ventilate? 

Ans.: Ventilate a good deal as in a dairy 
iDarn, but these low hog houses so much 
in use can be ventilated by the door on 
top. If it is a warm day, tliose doors 
should always be open. 

Windows in Hog Houses. 

I am thinking of putting up a new hog 
house with glass all along the front and 
one side. It seems to me tliat there would 
be less danger of hogs taking diseases In 
winter if they could get more sunlight. 

Ans.: Windows are necessary to admit 
light, sunshine and air, but too much win- 
dow space lowers the temperature and 
would probably be more injurious than 
Tjeneflcial. It would hardly be economical 
to have so much glass in hog houses in 
this climate. You had better drop the 
glass front and side scheme and substitute 
windows instead. Keep your pens clean 
and use disinfectants liberally and you 
probably won't be troubled with much dis- 
ease. 

Hog House Floor. 

I intend to build a hog house. What 
kind of floor should I put in, plank or 
cement? 

Ans.: While cement is easier to keep> 
clean it is generally supposed to cause 
rheumatism unless the sleeping quarters 
are kept well bedded. A combination 
■would answer the purpose better than 
either one or the other. A tight plank 
floor under the bed with a cement floor in 
front of the troughs that has a slight in- 
cline to carry off the urine will be very 
nearly ideal. If you wish to use cement en- 
tirely you had bette^ make a temporary 
board floor to lay over it in the sleeping 
quarters during the cold weather. 

Floor for Hog House. 

Which would be better, a slanting or 
level floor for a hog house? 

Ans.: Have the floor slant very little. 
Just enough to drain the urine off is suf- 
ficient. 

Feed Floor. 

Is it a good plan to use a feed floor the 
year around to feed on? 



Ans.: Yes. Have it protected from wind 
by a good windbreak of evergreen trees 
or a willow hedge. The floor itself should 
be surrounded by a tight high board fence 
or placed in the curve of a straw rick to 
protect the hogs from severe winds while 
they are eating. 

The Feeding Floor. 

Is it best to have a roof over the feed- 
ing floor? 

Ans.: It is not necessary. Most breed- 
ers prefer to have it open to God's blessed 
sunlight. 

Size of Feeding Floor. 

How large a feeding flour would be re- 
quired for 100 pigs? 

Ans.: It should be at least sixteen feet 
wide and eighty feet long. 

Feed Floor and Troughs. 

Is a feed floor or a trough to be preferred 
where shelled corn is fed? 

Ans.: A feed floor is better as the pigs 
would eat the corn altogether too fast to 
masticate it if it were fed in troughs. 
Where they have to pick up the kernels 
one at a time the mastication is perfect. 

Sleeping on Plank Floors. 

Does it injure a sow to sleep on plank 
floors? 

Ans.: Not if they are bedded. Plank 
floors seem to be getting back into general 
favor with a large number of swine breed- 
ers, and are now quite generally used es- 
pecially under the sleeping quarters. Dirt 
floors are unhealthy and cement floors oft- 
en produce rheumatism or kindred trou- 
bles. 

Plank Floor.s for Young Pigs. 

Is it advisable to keep young pigs on 
plank floors, during the entire winter? 

Ans.: No. Pigs should have warm, dry 
shelter, and a clean bed at nights in ex- 
treme cold and storm, and should have 
such a place at will, but they should not 
be deprived of out-door exercise. Give 
them a chance to run about during the 
day and they will be healthier for it. 

Hog Pen Floors. 

What kind of floors are the best for the 
hog pen? 

Ans.: Dirt floors, board floors and cement 
floors have been used. The dirt floors be- 
come fllthy and the cement floors give the 
hogs rheumatism. Board floors can be 
kept clean and are not so cold. The best 
wooden floors are made of double flooring 
with two thicknesses of tar paper be- 
tween. Avoid any cracks where cold air 
can blow on your pigs or hogs. 

Cement Floors. 

Are cement floors good for pigs to sleep 
on? A neighbor of mine put in a cement 
floor last fall and it seen^s to me that hia 



54 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWEiRlED ABOUT SWINE. 



hogs are about the most crippled up lot 
I ever looked at. Is the floor responsible 
for their condition? 

Ans.: Never force hogs to sleep directly 
on a cement floor. They ■will usually be 
troubled vs^itli rheumatism or other similar 
ailments. A dust floor, on the other liand, 
is almost as bad, •while the plank floor 
seems to solve the problem. A cement 
floor is all right for their feeding room if 
it is given a sufficient slant away from the 
trough, but it should never be used as a 
floor for the sleeping quarters. If your 
pens already have cement floors laid, build 
a plank floor on top of the cement where 
the sleeping quarters are to be. 

Beddings for Hogs. 

I have plenty of wheat, oat, rye, and 
barley straw all in good condition. Which 
straw makes the best winter bedding for 
hogs? 

Ans.: Wheat straw undoubtedly makes 
the best bedding. 

Bedding. 

What is the best kind of bedding to use? 

Ans.: Wheat straw, and not very much 
of that. Put in a few days before the sow 
farrows, so that she has that all compact 
for her nest. Only change often enough 
to insure a clean bed. 

Oat Straw. 

What is there about oat straw that 
makes it unhealthy for hogs? 

Ans.: It is liable to give them skin dis- 
ease. It makes them look kind of red and 
always sweaty. Use wheat straw if you 
have it. 

Timothy Hay for Bedding. 

Is timothy hay good for bedding? 

Ans.: Timothy hay is very good but it 
is too expensive. Use wheat straw if you 
have it. Oat straw is apt to cause skin 
trouble and should not be used if you can 
get anything else that is suitable. 

Barley Straw for Bedding. 

Is barley straw good for bedding? 

Ans.: It will do in the absence of some- 
thing better but it is not so good as wheat 
straw. 

Chaff for Farro^ving Pen. 

Would a little chaff or cut straw be 
better than wheat straw for the farrow- 
ing pen? 

Ans.: If you put wheat straw in a few 
days before, the sow will cut it up so that 
there will be no danger of the little pigs 
getting mixed up in it. 

Straw in Pens. 

Is it best to put very much straw in tlie 
pens that are used for breeding purposes? 

Ans.: Yes. Here is a good practice. A 
fortnight before a sow farrows put her 
into the open and feed her there mornings 



and nights but let her go along with the 
rest of the sows, so that she does not be- 
come scared. Do this up to w^ithin three 
days of farrowing, and then confine her in 
the stall all the time. A sow carries her 
young from 112 to 116 days at the outside. 
The sow knows that she has been treated 
well in that stall, and that there is no dan- 
ger about it; and remember that the sow 
always looks out a secure place in which 
to farrow. The second day after you have 
confined her give her plenty of bedding 
and let her make her own nest. Of course, 
you may have too much bedding. You will 
have to use your own judgment about that 
and leave only what you think she should 
have. 

Changing the Bedding. 

How often should I change the bedding 
just after farrowing time? 

Ans.: Every four or five days, and often- 
er if the sow and pigs are going in and 
out of the pen, tracking in mud and filth. 
Do not force them to lie on a w^et bed. 
Change the straw as often as the state of 
tlie weather or the condition of the bed 
makes it necessary. 

Salt for Swine. 

I would like some advice as to giving 
salt to hogs. 

Ans.: The salt can be mixed with the 
slop given. The results would probably be 
better if the salt was first dissolved in hot 
water when practicable. The dose requir- 
ed should be proportioned to the age and 
size of the animal. This can be determin- 
ed by test. It is seldom that more than 
a few ounces should be given at once. If 
uncertain as to the proper amount to give, 
have the sale in a box by itself where the 
hogs can get it at will. They will never 
eat more than is good for tliem. 

Salt for Hogs. 

How should salt be fed to hogs? 

Ans.: Hogs should always have free ac- 
cess to salt. When on pasture it is a good 
plan to spade in, from time to time, a 
lot of salt, especially if the soil is clay, 
and leave it in that state. Otherwise keep 
it in a dry place where they can get it 
readily. 

Soft Coal for Hogs. 

Will soft coal take the place of wood 
ashes for hogs? 

Ans.: Most breeders prefer wood ashes. 
One trouble in feeding soft coal is that 
you are apt to expose your herd to hog 
cholera in feeding it, as it is frequently 
shipped in stock cars. 

Ashes and Salt for Hogs. 

Is it beneficial to feed ashes and salr 
to hogs? 

Ans.: Ashes and salt are very beneficial. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



55 



as they keep the stomach in tone and in- 
crease the strength of bone in the ani- 
mals. 

Sulphur and Ashes for Hogs. 

Are sulphur and charcoal or wood ashes 
good for hogs? 

Ans. : If sulphur is used the hogs should 
have a very warm and dry pen, as it is 
dangerous to give it to hogs if the pen is 
wet and cold. The only good properties 
they get from the ashes are in the pieces 
of charcoal they find in it. A half tea- 
spoonful of sulphur twice or three times 
a week to a fifty pound hog is a fair dose. 

Best Wood for Charcoal. 

What kind of wood is the best to make 
into charcoal for hogs? 

Ans.: Maple would give you the best re- 
sults. Have a place to put the charcoal 
where the hogs can always find it and 
you will have little or no trouble with 
scours or indigestion in your herd. Hard 
wood makes better charcoal than that 
made from some of the softer trees. Very 
good charcoal can be made from corn cobs. 

Watering: Hogs. 

Do hogs require much water? I have a 
little run that goes through a corner of my 
hog pasture, and while the hogs go down 
there and lie down in the mud, to keep 
the flies off, I seldom see them drink. 

Ans.: Give up that old idea that hogs go 
not require much water. The hog is con- 
stituted very much like the human being, 
and should always be provided with fresh 
water where he can get at it at vv^ill. If it 
is not convenient to have water where 
hogs can get it freely, then it must be car- 
ried to them regularly eaoh day. Further- 
more, hogs should always be watered in 
the evening, as they are apt to drink 
quite a great deal just before going to 
bed. 

Automatic Waterer. 

Can an automatic waterer be put in the 
sleeping room and does it work satis- 
factorily? 

Ans.: It can, and works well w^ith a lit- 
tle attention where it is kept sufficiently 
warm so as not to freeze. 

Hog: Rings. 

Is it necessary to ring hogs? 

Ans.: No, if you give them salt and char- 
coal there is no need to ring them. A hog 
roots simply because there is a want of 
phosphate to make bone growth. The 
higher you feed the hog the more he will 
root. If a man is under obligation to ring 
his hogs it is best to put a ring on each 
side of its nose; never put a ring in the 
center, because you will thus very often 
disturb the nerves that are connected with 
the eye and the brain. You will often no- 
tice that when you ring the nose right 



through the center the pigs will draw 
back from the trough. 

Rings, 

Should I ring pigs when on pasture? 

Ans.: It is always best to ring brood 
sows before breeding them. Then they 
will not disturb the yard and pasture in 
the spring. Larger hogs may be ringed 
if they do much damage to pastures. 
Many breeders put two rings in their 
noses, one on each side of the center of 
the nose. Never ring pigs. 

Age of Pigs at Marltet Time. 

How old should pigs be and what weight 
should they attain at the time of market- 
ing? 

Ans.: On general principles a pig will 
pay the largest profit if sold by the time 
it reaches 200 pounds. If, however, pork 
should be high and corn low it would pay 
you to hold for heavier weight. 

The Most Profitable AVeight. 

At what weight is it most profitable 
to sell hogs. 

Ans.: That depends on the price of 
the grain and of pork and also the amount 
of feed on hand. On general principles a 
hog will make a more profitable gain be- 
fore it reaches 200 pounds than after. 
Watch the market quotations and be 
guided accordingly. 

Best Age for Meat. 

I have some young pigs that I am going 
to get in good shape to kill for family- 
use. At what age would they make the 
best meat? 

Ans.: Properly fattened, a six months 
old pig makes the best meat. When they 
get older than that the quality begins to 
deteriorate and the proportion of fat be- 
comes very much in excess of the lean. 

Meat all Right. 

I have had cholera in my swine herd 
recently. Is the meat of those not at- 
tacked all right for eating? Is meat of 
pigs crippled in hind feet good for eating? 

Ans.: The meat from both hogs is per- 
fectly healthy. 

Meat not Affected. 

We bought and killed a large sow that 
looked healthy, but when we opened her 
she had four or five gallons of vi^ater in- 
side. Not in the intestines, but outside of 
them. The meat, heart and liver looked 
all right, but the kidneys were blistered. 
What was the trouble, and is the meat 
fit to eat? 

Ans.: There is no reason why the meat 
should not be good. There was nothing of 
a contagious or infectious nature ailing 
the animal when butchered. 

Boar Meat. 

I have a boar that I want to dress in 
from four .to six weeks. Should I cas- 
trate him now or will the meat be all riglit 



.OfC. 



56 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE. 



if he is castrated just before being- butch- 
ered? 

Ans. : The age of the boar is not given. 
If under six months, it will be all right to 
kill him without castration. If much over 
that age a better quality of meat would 
be obtained by castrating him at once. 

Keeping Fork. 

Please tell me how to keep pork during 
the hot summer months. 

Ans.: On the assumption that the pork 
has been killed in cold weather and prop- 
erly cured, the best place to store pork is 
a dry cool place with sufficient circulation 
of air. If one fold of cotton is put around 
it and sewed so as to keep the flies out you 
should have no trouble. If you mean, how 
should pork be kept that is killed in hot 
weather, there is perhaps no better way 
than to salt it thoroughly and allow It to 
remain in salt in a cool cellar for about 
six weeks. Then smoke it and when dried 
wrap as described above. 

Curing Meat. 

How can I cure my own pork where I 
have only the common facilities of the 
farm? 

Ans.: Handle your hogs carefully; catch 
and kill them just as quietly as possible, 
butcher just as cleanly as possible, see 
that the meat is chilled down to the freez- 
ing point for at least twenty-four hours; 
then cut up and salt, being careful to get 
it in nice shape, cut regularly and smooth- 
ly in every respect, cutting the ham off 
with a saw instead of an axe; use rock 
salt and let stand so the brine will escape. 
At the end of a week, salt again. Use 
granulated sugar before using salt but 
brown sugar -wiU give good results. Later 
in the season dry and smoke for a short 
time, and if you wish to hold, pack the 
hams in a dry salt, being careful that the 
hams are dry when put away, or they will 
take up too much salt. Pack the side 
meat and shoulders in oats that have been 
■^ run through a fanning mill and are clean. 
Be careful to put your meat away on a dry 
day, because if it is damp it will accumu- 
late moisture and mould in the oats. 

A Good Hog Fence. 

How can I make a hog fence that will 
hold hogs? 

Ans.: First set the corner posts very se- 
curely and brace them well. Then draw a 
barb wire tight along the ground. This 
will serve as a line to set the other posts 
by. This wire is left to keep the pigs 
from rooting under. Next set the inter- 
mediate posts one rod apart. Set the 
posts in the fall and let them freeze in. 
Put in a two-foot woven wire in the spring 
on a warm day before the ground thaws 
out. Each post is then as solid as a tree 
and the wire can be drawn as tight as de- 



sired. Next put on a second wire six inch- 
es above the woven wire and finish by a 
third barb wire breast high to keep out 
other stock. A fence made in this manner 
will last many years. 

Hogs E:ating Sand and Gravel. 

Why do hogs eat so much sand and 
gravel? 

Ans.: Your hog's digestive apparatus is 
out of order and you are feeding too high. 
Furnish them salt, charcoal and ashes with 
plenty of room for exercise and you should 
not be troubled this way any more. 

What Killed the Pigs? 

About the middle of April we had 
twelve sows come in with eighty-four 
pigs. They had been sleeping in the barn, 
but ran in a good pasture during the day. 
One night, as it was pleasant, w^e shut 
them all out in the pasture and let them 
sleep in the straw pile. Next morning 
there were dead pigs in the pasture, in 
the yard and in the barn. The pasture 
fence was not fixed at that time so the 
pigs could get out. Within 24 hours 27 
of the biggest and best were dead. They 
did not struggle as if poisoned, but were 
stupid, lingered and died. It is a mystery 
to us. One man suggested that the sows 
got poisoned roots. In that case wouldn't 
the sows be poisoned? 

Ans.: It was something they had eaten 
that caused their death. The sows could 
take enough of certain poisons to cause 
the death of the little suckling pigs with- 
out killing themselves. 

Pigs Disappear. 

I have lost several small pigs and do 
not know what becomes of tliem. Would 
it be possible for rats to kill and carry 
them away? By putting in a plank floor 
can I keep the rats out? 

Ans.: It is quite possible that the rats 
have destroyed your little pigs, but it is 
more likely to be some larger animal. It 
would be well to put in a plank floor, but 
you had better build a pen so that no ani- 
mals can get in. 

Fresh Lime in Hog Houses. 

Would it do any good to scatter fresh 
lime in hog houses? 

Ans.: Yes, in warm weather. Scatter 
the lime in wet places that are apt to give 
off a stench, and a good coat of white- 
wash on the inside and outside of the hog 
house will help toward maintaining sani- 
tary conditions. 

Time to Care £or Hogs. 

How much of a man's time would it 
take to care for 153 hogs? 

Ans.: On the whole, probably not more 
than one-fourth, if he is a good man. 

Cause for Hogs Eating Ice. 

Why does a hog eat ice when water is 
plentiful? 

Ans.: Sometimes a hog will eat ice 
which is chopped from a trough to get the 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



57 



ground feed that it contains. Other times 
they eat ice because they are feverish. 
Can Land be Kept by Hog Raising. 

Can land be kept fertile by raising- hogs 
as well as by raising cattle? 

Ans. : The ideal way to keep hogs and 
keep up a farm is to keep them in con- 
nection with the dairy. You could hard- 
ly keep up the fertility of a farm growing 
hogs alone. 

Wbat to do With the Runts. 

Each year I have from eight to ten 
little runts. Is it well to allow them to 
run around with the rest of the swine, 
or what can I do with them? 

Ans.: There is always one good thing 
about the runt. He makes a prime roast- 
er. But the scurvy, sickly, runty pig 
should not be permitted to run at large 
with the rest of the herd. If a contagi- 
ous disease comes into the neighborhood 
he is almost certain to catch it and spread 
it among the others. He should either 
be kept by himself or disposed of. 

Cutting Pig's Tail Off. 

Does it help a pig to fatten to cut its 
tail off when small? 

Ans.: Better leave the pigs tail on, as 
it costs very little to grow it, and is a 
good thermometer to tell how your pig is 
doing and also ccmes in very handy at 
scalding time. 

Sheep or Hogs? 

Which would be the quickest way for 
a man with limited means to get a start, 
with sheep or hogs? 



Ans.: Consult your own taste in the 
matter and decide to raise what you be- 
lieve to be best suited to your own par- 
ticular conditions. If you have no ex- 
perience with sheep, you would make a 
serious mistake if you started in with 
them while prices are at the flood tide. 
If you have had experience with swine 
it would be better for you to continue 
with them at least until sheep take a drop 
in price. 

Lo-w Prices. 

Hogs are pretty low, shall I stick or 
sell out? 

Ans.: Keep right on just the same, only 
give your animals a little better care so 
that you can make a good, fair profit in 
spite of low prices. 

Registering Swine. 

Please tell me if pigs that are brought 
from another state can be registered here 
in Minnesota, and at what price? 

Ans.: Swine, if purely bred, can be regis- 
tered in the record to which they proper- 
ly belong in any part of the United States. 
The same is true of any kind of pure-bred 
stock. In order to record them, you must 
first decide in w^hat association you 
would have them recorded and then write 
to the secretary for blanks, w^hich will 
give all information in regard to registra- 
tion and prices. These we cannot give, 
as they vary with the different kinds of 
stock. 



Index. 



BREETHISG. 

Page. 

Age of Sire 1 

Age of Breeding Swine 2 

A Bad Sort of Breeder 2 

A Bad Grazing Type 2 

Always Buy a Pure Bred Sire 3 

Age to Breed 3 

Age to Breed Sows 4 

A Poor Sow for a Breeder 5 

Age, Breeding 5 

Age Limit of Sows 5 

A Question in Weaning 6 

Artificial Abortion 8 

Brood Sow and Boar, The Conforma- 
tion of the 1 

Boar, Impotent 1 

Boar, Trouble with 1 

Boar, Selecting a 1 

Breeding Age of Sire 1 

Better Blood Needed 1 

Boar, Correcting Weak Points in the. 1 

Boar or Sow? Pure Bred 2 

Breeder, A Bad Sort of a 2 

Boar, Buying a — -The Age 2 

Boar, Time to Buy a 2 

Boar Running with Sows 2 

Boar Pigs not up to Standard 2 

Boar, Handling the 2 

Boar, Selecting a 2 

Boars, Selecting for Breeders 3 



Page. 

Boars, Changing 3 

Boar, Selecting for Fattening Quali- 
ties 3 

Breed, Age to 3 

Bringing Sow^s in Heat 3 

Bone, Cross Breeding Hogs for 4 

Bone, Exercise for 4 

Brood Sows, Selecting Future 4 

Breeders, Poor Sows for 4, 5 

Breeding, Old Sows for 5 

Breeding Age 5 

Boar and Brood Sow 5 

Breeding Young Sows 5 

Breeding Twice a Year 6 

Birth. Pigs Die Soon After 9 

Breeding with a View of Fattening. . 9 

Breeding vs. Feeding 9 

Broken Down Pigs 9 

Conformation of Brood Sows and Boar 1 

Correcting Weak Points in the Boar. 1 

Changing Boars 3 

Care of Brood Sow Before Farrow- 
ing 3 

Cross Breeding 4 

Cross Breeding Hogs for Bone 4 

Correcting Defects in the Sow 6 

Exercise ' for Bone 4 

Early Maturity 9 

Farrowing, Penning Before 3 



•58 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWEiRED ABOUT SWINE. 



Page. 
Farrowing, Care of the Brood Sow 

Before 3 

Fall Litters 7 

Fall or Spring Pigs 7 

Farrowing, Lose Pigs After 8 

Farrowing, Trouble in 8 

Fattening, Breeding with a View of . . 9 

Feed vs. Breed 9 

Grazing, A bad Type 2 

Gestation, Period of 3 

Gilts? Old Sows or 5 

Gilts, Milking Quality of 5 

Hogs for Market Only 1 

Handling the Boar 2 

Heat, To Get Sows in 3 

Hogs, Cross Breeding for Bone 4 

How Long are Sows Profitable? 5 

Impotent Boar 1 

Inbreeding 4 

Litters, Two a Year 6 

Litters, Number of a Year 6 

Litters, Number of 7 

Litters, One Each Year 7 

Litters, Fall 7 

Litters, Time for Spring 7 

Litter, Number of Pigs to the 7 

Large Litters 7 

Lose Pigs after Farrowing 8 

Milking Qualities of a Gilt 5 

Maturity, Early 9 

Nursing Pigs 6 

Number of Litters a year 6 

Number of Litters 7 

Number of Pigs a Sow Should Have.. 7 

Number of Pigs to the Litter 7, 8 

Number of Pigs Dropped 8 

Old Sows for Breeding 5 

Old Sows or Gilts? 5 

One Litter Each Year 7 

Pure Bred, Use Sires 1 

Pure Bred Sire or Sows? 2 

Pedigreed Scrub 2 

Producing Healthy Pigs 3 

Pure Bred Sire, Always Buy a 3 

Period of Gestation 3 

Penning Before Farrowing 3 

Pregnant Sows, Shipping 4 

Poor Sows for Breeders 5 

Profitable? How Long are Sows 5 

Pigs, "Weaning . . . : 6 

Pigs, Nursing 6 

Pigs? Spring or Fall Born 7 

Pigs, Number of a Sow Should Have. . 7 

Pigs, Number of to the Litter 7 

Pigs, Number of Dropped 8 

Pigs, Losing After Farrowing 8, 9 

Pigs, Broken Down 9 

Re-Breeding So'ws 5 

Raising Pure-Bred Animals 9 

Sows, Conformation of Brood and Boar 1 

Selection of a Boar 1 

Sire, Breeding Age of 1 

Sires, Use Pure Bred 1 

Sows? Pure Bred Boar or 2 

Swine, Age of Breeding 2 

Sows, Boar Running With 2 

Scrub, Pedigreed 2 

Standard, Boar Pigs not up to 2 

Selecting Boars for Breeders 3 

Selecting a Boar for Fattening Quali- 
ties 3 

Sire, Alwavs Buv a Pure Bred 3 

Sows, To Get in Heat 3 

Shipping Pregnant Sows 4 

Selecting Future Brood Sows 4 

Sows, What Age to Breed 4 

Sow, The Brood 5 

Sows, Breeding Young 5 

Sows, Re-Breeding 5 

Sows, Age Limit of 5 

'Sow, Correcting Defects in the 6 



Page. 

Spring or Fall Born Pigs? 7 

Spring Litter, Time for 7 

Sow Over-Lying her Young 8 

Time to Buy a Boar 2 

Two Litters a Year 6 

Time for Spring Litters 7 

Trouble in Farrowing 8 

What Time to Breed Sows 4 

Weaning 6 

Young Sows, Breeding 5 

FEEDING. 
Feeding Hogs. 

Amount of Corn necessary to Feed a 

Hog 10 

Boar, Feeding The 9 

Balancing the Ration 10 

Barley Meal 12 

Beans, Spoiled for Hogs 12 

Butter Milk for Hogs 12 

Butter Milk or Skim Milk? 12 

Corn for Fattening Hogs 9 

Corn, Profitable Way to Feed 10 

Corn Fattened Hogs 10 

Corn, Feeding in the Corn Belt 10 

Corn, Amount of Necessary to Feed 

Hogs 10 

Corn, The Value of as a Food 10 

Corn, Green 10 

Corn, Feeding Screenings and 11 

Corn-and-Cob Meal 12 

Creamery Milk for Hogs 12 

Copperas or Sulphur in Slop 12 

Feeding the Boar 9 

Feeding Fattening Hogs 9 

Feeding Corn in the Corn Belt 10 

Food. The Value of Corn as a 10 

Fodder for Hogs, Green 11 

Feeding Screenings and Corn 11 

Fattening Swine, Millet Seed for 11 

Flaxseed for Hogs 11 

Feeding Squash 13 

Feeding Value of Potatoes 13 

Food, Mixed 14 

Green Corn 10 

Green Fodder for Hogs 11 

Green Speltz for Hogs 11 

Hogs, Feeding Fattening 9 

Hogs, Corn for Fattening 9 

Hogs, Corn Fattened 10 

Hogs, Green Corn for 10, 11 

Hogs, The Value of Speltz for 11 

Hogs, Millet for 11 

Hogs, Flaxseed for 11 

Hogs, Spoiled Beans for 12 

Hogs, Creamery Milk for 12 

Hogs Without Dairy 12 

Hogs, Sugar Beets for 13 

Hogs, Pushing for Market 13 

Linseed Meal 12 

Millet Seed for Fattening Swine 11 

Millet for Hogs 11 

Meal, Linseed 12 

Meal, Oil 12 

Meal, Barley 12 

Meal, Corn-and-Cob 12 

Milk for Hogs, Creamery 12 

Milk? Butter Milk or Skim 12 

Mangels for Hogs 13 

Market, Pushing Hogs for 13 

Mixed Food ' 14 

Number of Meals a day 14 

Oil Cake for Fattening 12 

Oil Meal 12 

Profitable Way to Feed Corn 10 

Pumpkins, T^^hen to Feed 13 

Potatoes for Hogs 13 

Pushing Hogs for Market 13 

Ration, Balancing the 10 

Rye, Winter 11 



INDEX. 



59 



Page. 

Roots for Swine 13 

Screenings and Corn, Feeding- H 

Speltz for Swine 11 

Swill 12 

Sulphur or Copperas in Slop 12 

Squash, Feeding 13 

Sugar Beets for Hogs 13 

Small Potatoes for Swine 13 

Silage for Hogs 13 

Variety? One Food or a 14 

Wheat for Hogs 11 

Feeding Brood So-vvs. 

Brood Sows, Feeding 14 

Brood Sows in Summer, Feed for 14 

Brood Sow, Feeding the 14 

Brood Sow, Grain for the 14 

Brood Sows, Ground Oats for 14 

Brood Sows, Flaxseed Meal for 14 

Brood Sows, Skim Milk for 15 

Brood Sows, Feeding 15, 16 

Best Ration for Sow 16 

Brood Sows With Cattle 17 

Brood Sows and Fattening Hogs 17 

Breeding Sows on Shares 17 

Changing from Corn to Oats 14 

Corn-and-Cob Ration 17 

Corn Fodder 17 

Feeding Brood Sows 14 

Feed for the Brood Sow in Summer... 14 

Flaxseed Meal for Brood Sows 14 

Feeding Flax to Sows 15 

Feeding Horse Flesh 15 

Feed Before Farrowing 15, 16 

Farrowing, Treatment of Sow Just 

Before 16 

Grain for Brood Sows 14 

Ground Oats for Brood Sows 14 

Hogs Running With other Stock 17 

Increasing the Size of Litters 14 

Linseed Meal for Sows 16 

Middlings for Nursing Sows, Skim 

Milk and 15 

Middlings, Sows Refuse to Eat 15 

Maintaining the Milk Supply 16 

Oats for Sows 14 

Oats and Peas for Sows 14 

Oil Meal for Sows 16 

Roots , 15 

Size of Litters, Increasing the 14 

Sows in Summer, Feed for 14 

Skim Milk for Brood Sows 15 

Sugar Beet Pulp 15 

Too Much Milk 16 

Treatment of Sow Just After Farrow- 
ing 16 

What Feed Before Farrowing? 15 

Feeding Pigs. 

A Question of Profit 17 

Average Gain of Young Pigs 22 

Barley for Pigs 19 

Bone Meal 19 

Best Food for Pigs 20 

Bran, Corn and Oats for Pigs 20 

Bran for Pigs 20 

Creamery Milk 18 

Corn Meal for Young Pigs 20 

Cotton Seed Meal for Pigs 20 

Cooked Grain 22 

Cooking the Feed 22 

Cooking and Gringing of Food 22 

Charcoal for Hogs 23 

Feeding, A Difference in 18 

Feeding, Winter or Summer 17 

Feeding Questions 17 

Food for Pigs 18 

Feeding Corn 19 

Feeding Corn Alone 19 

Feeding Sow witli Pigs 19 

Feeding Pigs Before Weaning 20 

Fattening Young Pigs 21 

Feed for Pigs 21 

Food for Young Pigs 21 

Feeding Rye or Barley 22 

Fresh Water 23 



Page. 

Ground Barley and Oats for Pigs... 19 

Grain Fed to Little Pigs 21 

Grinding Hog Food 22 

Gain of Pigs per Day 22 

Heavily Fed Pigs 21 

Is Charcoal Good for Hogs? 23 

Keeping Pigs Through Winter 22 

Milk, The Value of for Pigs 18 

Milk, Substitute for 19 

Middlings for Small Pigs 21 

Mangels for Swine 22 

Profit, A Question of 17 

Pay to Sell or Feed? Will it 18 

Pushing the Pigs 20 

Ration for Pigs 18 

Small Pigs in Spring 18 

Sour Milk 18 

Shorts Soaked for Pigs 19 

Starting Pigs after Weaning 19 

Stock Food for Swine 20 

Swine Not Growing Well 20 

Steaming Food for Swine 22 

Soaked Corn 23 

Swill in the Winter 23 

Soapy Water for Pigs 23 

Winter or Summer Feeding 17 

Will it Pay to Sell or Feed? 18 

Whey for Pigs 19 

PASTURES FOR SWIIVE. 

Alfalfa for Hogs 23 

Artichokes for Swine 23, 24 

Barley and Oats, Pasture of 26 

Barley and Rape In Place of Clover. . 26 

Clover Pastures 24 

Continuous Pasture 25 

Dividing Hog Pastures 27 

Diseased Pasture, Turning Hogs in... 28 

Early Hog Pasture 25 

Grain Feed for Pasture Hogs 24 

Grass for Swine 25 

Hog Culture Without Pasture 23 

Hogs in Polk County, Minnesota 24 

Hogs on Rape 26 

Hog Pasture 26, 27 

Oats and Rape 26 

Oats and Vetch for Pasture, Quantity 

of 26 

Pastured Hogs Injure Alfalfa 23 

Pasture, The Best 24 

Permanent Hog Pasture 25 

Pasture for Pigs 26 

Pasture of Barley and Oats 26 

Pasture for Eight Hogs 28 

Pasture for Ten Hogs 28 

Pasture for 100 Swine 28 

Pasture Running Short 28 

Rape, Time to Sow 25 

Rape for Swine 26 

Rape Pasture Growing Too Fast 26 

Rape and Oats for Pasture 26 

Substitute for Clover Pasture 24 

Time to Sow Rape 25 

Temporary Pasture 26 

Timothy Pasture 27 

Turning Hogs in Diseased Pasture.... 28 

Vetch on Sandy Soil 27 

White Clover for Pasture 24 

White Clover and Blue Grass for 

Pasture 24 

Yield of ArtichoTces per Acre 24 

SW INE DISEASES. 

Abortion 28 

Abcess Forming 28 

Acid Stomach 29 

Anthrax 29 

Apoplexy 29 

Black Tooth, The 29 

Blind Staggers 29 

Blood Diseases 29, 30 

Brain Diseases 30 

Bronchitis : 30 

Bunch on Sow 30 

Catarrh 30 

Choking Hogs 31 



60 



500 QUESTIONS ANSWERED ABOUT SWINE. 



Page. 

Cholera 31 

Contagious Disease 32, 45 

Constipation 32 

Cough 32, 33 

Canker or Sore Mouth 38 

Dead Pigs 33 

Deafness 33 

Debility 33 

Deformed Pigs 33 

Dialation of Meat Pipe 33 

Doctoring Pigs 33 

Eczema 33, 34 

Byes, Sore 34 

Feet, Sore 34 

Feverish Sows 34 

Fits, Pigs Have 34 

Indigestion 34, 35 

Injured Sow 35 

Internal Affection 35 

Itch 36 

Kidney Trouble 36 

Lame Hog 36 

Leg Weakness 36, 37 

Lousy Hogs 37 

Lump on Pig's Nose 37 

Lung Fever 38 

Mange, Cause of 38 

Mouth, Bunches in 38 

Mouth, Canker or Sore 38 

Navel, Bunch on 39 

Over-Feeding 39 

Paralysis 39 

Piles 39 

Pnuemonia 39 

Poor Hogs 40 

Report All Cases of Hog Cholera 31 

Rheumatism 40 

Ruptured Pigs 40 

Sore Eyes 34 

Sore Feet 34 

Scab 40 

Scruff 40 

Sheath, Imperfect 40 

Sores on Hogs 41 

Spinal Meningitis 41 

Spinal Trouble 41, 42 

Stiffened Hog 42 

Stomach Trouble 42 

Sour Stomach 42 

Sun Scald 42 

Sun Stroke 42 

Stomach Worms 44 

Tumor in Brain 30 

Throat Trouble 42 

Thumps 43 

Tuberculosis 43 

Tumors On Pigs 43 

AVeak in Hind Legs 36, 37 

Weak Backs 44 

Worms in Hogs 44, 45 

Veterinarian, Consult a 45 

BREEDS COMPARED. 

About Breeds 48 

Are Poland-Chinas Prolific? 48 

Berkshire, The 45 

Breeds of Swine Compared 48 

Best Breed of Hogs 49 

Best Hog for Market 49 

Breed, Selecting a 49 

Bacon vs. Pork Hogs 49 

Chester Whites vs. Duroc Jersevs 47 

Chester White Swine and O. I. C 47 

Chester Whites, Improved 47 

Color in Swine 49 

Crossing Swine 49 

Crossing, Effects of 50 

Duroc-Jerseys vs. Poland-Chinas 46 

Duroc- Jersey Swine 46 

Duroc-Jerseys vs. Chester Whites.... 47 

Essex 47 



Page. 

Effects of Crossing 50 

Finishing Age 49 

Improved Chester Whites 47 

Lard or Bacon Type 49 

Market, Best Hog for 49 

O. L C. Swine 47 

O. L C. and Chester White Swine 47 

Poland Chinas 46. 

Poland Chinas vs. Duroc-Jerseys 46 

Poland China Prolific? are 48 

Pork Hogs vs. Bacon 49 

Selecting a Breed 49 

The Best Hog 49 

The Pork Breeds 49 

Victoria Swine 4& 

Yorkshires, Small 48 

Yorkshires, Large 48 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Ashes and Salt 54, 55 

Age of Pigs at Market Time 55 

Bedding, Changing the 54 

Barley Straw for Bedding 54 

Castrating Pigs 50 

Castrating, Trouble with Pigs After. 50, 51 

Chickens, Hogs Eat 52 

Cement Floors 53 

Chaff for Farrowing Pens 54 

Coal for Hogs, Soft 54 

Charcoal, Best Wood for 55 

Curing Meat 56 

Care for Hogs, Time to 56 

Cause for Hogs Eating Ice 56 

Can Land be Kept by Hog Raising? . . 57 

Cut the Pig's Tail Off 57 

Fighting, To Prevent Sows from 51 

Farrowing Pens 52 

Floor, Hog House 53 

Feeding Floor 53 

Floors, Sleeping on Plank 53 

Fence, A Good Hog 56 

Hogs Eat Each Other 51 

Hogs Eating Their Young 52,53 

Hogs Eating Hens 52 

Hogs Eating Sand and Gravel 56 

Hog House 52 

Keeping Pork 56 

Lime in Hog House, Fresh 56 

Market Time, Age of Pigs at 55 

Meat, Best Age for 55 

Meat not Affected 55 

Meat, Boar 55 

Meat. Curing 56 

Oat Straw 54 

Pigs, High Tempers in 51 

Pens, Expensive 52 

Pens, Sleeping 52 

Pens, Farrowing 52 

Plank Floors 53 

Pigs? What Killed the 56 

Pigs Disappear 56 

Pork, Keeping 56 

Prices, Low 57 

Quarrelsome Hogs 51 

Room for Brood Sow 52 

Rings 55 

Runts, What to do With the 57 

Registering Swine 57 

Sows Eating Their Own Pigs 51 

Sleeping Pens 52 

Summer Shelter for Hogs 53 

Straw in Pens 54 

Salt for Swine •. 54 

Sulphur and Ashes for Hogs 55 

Sheep or Hogs? 57 

Timothy Hay for Bedding 54 

Ventilation 53 

Wind, Bothered by 52 

Windows in Hog Houses 53 

Watering Hogs 55 

Weight, The Most Profitable 55 



FIVE PRACTICAL BOOKS 



GRASSES AND HOW TO GROW THEM, by Thomas Shaw,' cov- 
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FEEDING AND MANAGEMENT OF LIVE STOCK, by Thomas 
Shaw. An important book on a subject to which too little attention 
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HOG FACTS, by D. A. Wallace and H. O. Telller. This book was 
written to fill the need of the practical man who is looking for all the 
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Jan. 1, 1908. 

STANDARD BLACK8MITHING, HORSESHOEING AND WAGON 
MAKING, by J. G. Holmstrom, author of Modem Blacksmithing; giveb 
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THIRTY DAIRY RATIONS. Thirty complete balanced dairy ra- 
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development and raising of dalr>' calves. This is a concise treatise 
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WEBB PUBLISHING COMPANY. 

ST. PAUL. MINN. 



LIBRARY OF CUNUKtoo 



002 834 970 1 



STANDARD AGRICULTURAL BOOKS 

Published by WEBB PUBLISHING COMPANY. St Paul. Minn. 



AMATEUR FRUIT aROWINQ. by Samuel 
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VEQETABLE QARDENINQ, by Samuel B. 
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FARM WIND-BREAKS AND SHELTER 
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VACANT GOVERNMENT LANDS, by Moses 
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POULTRY HOUSES, COOPS AND 
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HARDWOOD LANDS, by D. A. Wallace, 
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ELEMENTS OF AGRICULTURE, by J. H 

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THE DOMINION OF CANADA, by Moses 
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